Is there a diesel comparable to the 8n?

[JoeinTX]

This is awesome.

 

[Soundguy]

Philip8n, nice looking soil in those furrows.

when you get a chance can I get a closer pic of your vertical muffler instalation.

thanks

soundguy

 

[PHILIP8N]

Got the pipe from TSC. Did not like the flapper rain cap, found this 45 degree tip online. It was an ID/OD clamp style, which I did not like, so I welded it on. The tip was hard to find. Pipe is odd size, like 1-1/4 OD. Galvanizing burnt off, but the black powdercoat has held up good. When plowing I have to remove and put the horizontal back on. The vertical pipe vaporized the gas in the carb bowl and caused it to miss like it is out of fuel. Philip.

 

[PHILIP8N]

One more.

 

[wolc123]

It is too bad that vertical exhaust causes the miss. Thanks for pointing that out as it is something I have often wanted to try but never got around to. One of the very few things I do not like about my 8n, especially when plowing in warmer weather or doing other extended-hour, high-hp work, is the hot foot on the right side caused by the horizontal exhaust located under the running board. I also had trouble tearing the exhaust out from time to time on rocks and deep furrows when plowing. These days, like SG, I prefer deisel power for most of the heavier jobs like plowing and brush-hogging and my own 8N is relegated to mostly lighter work like planting or hauling firewood. I have also had good luck with points on the 8N, putting a new set in more than 20 years ago and not needing to touch them since. One thing that I believe helps point life on these old tractors is leaving them 6 volts. It seems that converting to 12 volts consumes a good bit more points. I converted my Farmall cub to 12 volts, mainly to operate a diaphram pump for liquid nitrogen & roundup application while cultivating. Since doing that, I only get 4-5 years out of a set of points.

 

[AKfish]

Very good thread...!! Good info and some good laughs, too! :thumbsup:

I'm gonna try to load up my FIL's 9n and all the attachments that he made for it over the year's and haul it down here to our place.

Hope to put it to work raking hay later this month. My FIL replaced the valves in it a few year's back 'cause he thought it was the unleaded fuel that wore the valves out... Turns out that maybe it was just a whole lotta hours of hard use! It's 12v with an alternator, too. (Really uptown!) Rusty metal seat, though.

Try to post a pic or two of the track system that's on it. Soundguy ID'ed it for me a while back ('course I can't remember who made the tracks..).

I'll drop them - don't guess they'll be necessary for hay raking!!

AKfish

 

[Egon]

Replacing Valve Seats in Cylinder Heads

Hardness of valves and seats can be an interesting and continuously evolving with changes in metallurgy and fabrication methods.

The hardness of a 1950 valve and seat compared to a todays valve and seat really involves knowing the metallurgy and fabrication methods used.:thumbsup:

The word "Hardened" per say really doesn't mean much.

 

[Soundguy]

Got the pipe from TSC. Did not like the flapper rain cap, found this 45 degree tip online. It was an ID/OD clamp style, which I did not like, so I welded it on. The tip was hard to find. Pipe is odd size, like 1-1/4 OD. Galvanizing burnt off, but the black powdercoat has held up good. When plowing I have to remove and put the horizontal back on. The vertical pipe vaporized the gas in the carb bowl and caused it to miss like it is out of fuel. Philip.

I'll bet you could build a heat shield out of some roofing tin and some hit temp fiberglass insulation and leave her up full time. nice looking pipe install. did you do the bend with a conduit bender?

I also ran intot hat hard to find 1 1/4" tubing when trying to make a retrofit steering column after mine was found to be bent. finally found some thick walled stuff at a fencing/tarp building dealer. had to turn down the ID and OD on opposite ends a few thousandths to press in a bearing and then press it intot he steering box.. but it fit ( was also galvanized ).

thanks for the pics.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

It is too bad that vertical exhaust causes the miss. Thanks for pointing that out as it is something I have often wanted to try but never got around to. One of the very few things I do not like about my 8n, especially when plowing in warmer weather or doing other extended-hour, high-hp work, is the hot foot on the right side caused by the horizontal exhaust located under the running board. I also had trouble tearing the exhaust out from time to time on rocks and deep furrows when plowing. These days, like SG, I prefer deisel power for most of the heavier jobs like plowing and brush-hogging and my own 8N is relegated to mostly lighter work like planting or hauling firewood. I have also had good luck with points on the 8N, putting a new set in more than 20 years ago and not needing to touch them since. One thing that I believe helps point life on these old tractors is leaving them 6 volts. It seems that converting to 12 volts consumes a good bit more points. I converted my Farmall cub to 12 volts, mainly to operate a diaphram pump for liquid nitrogen & roundup application while cultivating. Since doing that, I only get 4-5 years out of a set of points.

Technically.. 6v should be a tad rougher on points because the current is higher, and the points surface area is dealing with a net higher current per unit measurement, whereas in a 12v application current can be half and still disipate the same wattage. However most people that have front mounts neglect to correct for the primary resistance needs of the front mount coils, and actually end up raising the primary current. For the side mounts, it's even easier as there are stock native 12v coils on the market, like a napa IC14SB that can be used with no conversion resistor.

Square coils come in a couple varieties.. the 1 ohm 6v style.. and the 2.5 ohm style that is sold as a '12v' coil.. unfortunately.. it really isn't a 12v coil.. as it still needs serial resistance.. most dealers either don't know this or omit telling / explaining to the owner this lil tidbit.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Hardness of valves and seats can be an interesting and continuously evolving with changes in metallurgy and fabrication methods.

The hardness of a 1950 valve and seat compared to a todays valve and seat really involves knowing the metallurgy and fabrication methods used.:thumbsup:

The word "Hardened" per say really doesn't mean much.

True.. and alot of problems ran into in aerlier years were valve seats ground into parent bore cast iron heads or blocks, no insert was used, then the seat was induction hardened.. which left a hardened surface that was literally micrometers thick. give it almost any wear at all, and the hard part was gone, then you were into realitively sofdt cast iron, which then receded easilly.

Use of a true hardened valve seat insert was much more robust.

soundguy