Is there any way to determine the proper amount of counter weight?

[Roger66]

I want to build a compact 3 point ballast box for my Mahindra 1526. I want to keep it close to the 3 point attachment points and not protrude far back. I may use large steel plates or lead to get the weight in a compact package. Cement would be way cheaper, so that's still in the running. It's just a matter of how much weight I need and how large would a cement block need to be to accomplish the need. This brings me to the question how much ballast do I need? If I go too heavy I'm potentially overloading my axles adding extra wear and tare. I want maximum lift for my front end loader. Any ideas, is there a formula?

Thanks!

 

[bcp]

My Kubota loader and/or tractor manual has maximum front and rear ballast weights listed. Rear is about 2/3 of the loader lift capacity.

Bruce

 

[RedNeckRacin]

I want to build a compact 3 point ballast box for my Mahindra 1526. I want to keep it close to the 3 point attachment points and not protrude far back. I may use large steel plates or lead to get the weight in a compact package. Cement would be way cheaper, so that's still in the running. It's just a matter of how much weight I need and how large would a cement block need to be to accomplish the need. This brings me to the question how much ballast do I need? If I go too heavy I'm potentially overloading my axles adding extra wear and tare. I want maximum lift for my front end loader. Any ideas, is there a formula?

Thanks!

IF your tractor can pick it up it will be fine. Just use some common sense about your speed. AS far as I know, you cannot overload your rear axle by lifting something with the 3pt. If you can, it was a poorly manufactured/designed tractor. You do get extra compaction of the ground if that is a concern.

 

[Joe Malovich]

You can fill the tires and add wheel weights which have zero penalty on wear and tear, a ballast box is still recommended but it doesn't need to be as big.

Weighted/filled rears however do NOT lessen the load on your front axle. If ground compaction isn't an issue then I suggest weighted/filled rears AND a big ballast box not as close to the rear axle as you want, further away reduces the load on the front axle.

 

[jeff9366]

Counterbalance with ballasted rear tires will be one figure.

Counterbalance with air filled rear tires will be another figure.

Are your rear tires ballasted?

 

[jeff9366]

Loader type: Mahindra 1526L

Weight: 774 lbs [351 kg]
Height (to pin): 84 inches [213 cm]
Clearance, dumped bucket: 78 inches [198 cm]
Dump reach: 19 inches [48 cm]
Dump angle: 43
Rollback angle: 20
Breakout force (at pin): 2795 lbs [1267 kg]
Lift to full height (at pin): 1560 lbs [707 kg]
Bucket width: 58.5 inches [148 cm]
Raise time to height: 3.6 s
Bucket dump time: 2.8 s
Lowering time: 2.6 s
Rollback time: 2.4 s



Mahindra 1526
3-Point Hitch:

Rear Type: I
Control: position control
Rear lift: 2646 lbs [1200 kg]
Rear Arms: telescopic stabilizers

 

[Roger66]

I don't have filled rear tires. I've been thinking of that, just need to find a cheap drum of washer fluid.

Bruce mentioned 2/3 the loader capacity which sounds like a reasonable number, but which number should I base if off of (or am I even understanding this correctly). According to the specs Jeff just posted my loader can lift 1560 lbs to full height, I believe all machines can lift more at a lower height. Does the break out force of 2795 lbs mean that this loader can lift 2795 lbs very close to the ground? or is this something like lift and curl together to bust a root?

Do I base my 2/3 off of 2795 lbs or 1560 lbs?

Thanks!

 

[Zebrafive]

Breakout is at ground level with lift cylinders, not curling the bucket. As you lift, the leverage the lift cylinders have is decreased, so lift capacity goes down the higher you go.
I would probably go about 1/2 of breakout rating. The tighter to the back of the tractor, the less leverage the counter weight will have.
I think you will find concrete the most economical weight material.

 

[oosik]

Your OP manual, now-a-days, has a serious case of "potential litigation". So if you look in the area where they talk about counter weight - its going to be vague, beat around the bush and for goodness sake - "don't pin me down to this recommendation".

I have 1500# of beet juice in my rear tires and a 1000# rear blade out back. I can still lift a large section of green Ponderosa pine trunk that definitely makes the rear tires very light. I've gone to a web site and calculated weights of P. pine for 5' and 10' lengths and various increasing diameters. Lets me know when a ten foot chunk should be cut into two fives to be on the safe side. I move chunks of green pine trunk up to 36" in diameter. Currently my Kubota tips the grain scales at 10,100#.

Putting ballast in the rear tires is a good start. Where is Shelton - will WW fluid provide adequate protection from freezing. With ballasted rear tires I would build a 3-point box large enough to hold 1200# of cement or lead or chunks of steel. That way you could put 600# or so in the box and see how it works. Add more if necessary.

 

[Roger66]

Ok, so about 10 cubic feet of concrete should do it. I understand about the leverage thing, but I'm often maneuvering in tight quarters and I need to keep it as compact as possible. Sadly I don't have a large farm, I live in the burbs. No doubt my neighbors all think I'm crazy.

Thanks