its a Jinma for sure.. but there's some part i cant figure, i need HELP (

Jose G · Dec 30, 2012

Affordable said:
Jose, we have all the parts and yes it is a Jinma 254/284. If you don't have the parts manual we can help you determine the parts you will need, we should have it all in stock.Let me know if we can help, we are open Monday and we ship to Canada all the time

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

thanks Tommy to clear this up once for all! (ill order the parts and may want some upgrade if you can provide them, ill write you an email. It was a pleasure to deal with you the first time, your price are right and the shipping is top notch)

still weird it shows 26.1KW on the engine plate (made by the original dealer) as Greg pointed out and on my registration its written 35 hp.
I always doubted and even said it was a lie / trowing numbers to sell... when you never owned a tractor, you dont know what is a 25hp tractor vs a 35hp... you just look at the numbers and hope the best.
Maybe you can boost the tuning on a non turbo diesel like you can do on Car ? changing camshaft, retiming them, maybe he bored the block and put oversized piston or stroked crankshaft :cool2: ? (are they available? lol) etc...? (i dont know much about Diesel engine, im into gas engine) who knows what the original dealer did to the tractor.. (probably nothing, I really think he was BS'ing people with the numbers, KJT 3530 are rare so he may sold a couples at max, then out of business)

About the oil spilling out of the vent tube Greg, i hate when thing are considerated "normal", i hate to see oil on my garage floor also, ill have to fabricate some sort of vent tube i guess... maybe with a water separator from a compressor, ill check into that, the real question is, am i harming the system the way it is right now ? (pressure build up inside the hydraulic reservoir)

now here the other piece missing from the shaft yesterday (i just fixed my camera, had the wrong time in it, that's why its showing 29 for the date)

that's it for now, im in canada, so i guess ill get the parts somewhere in the middle of january, ill update the thread as it goes...
AND do you guys think i should open up a new thread about the differential lock problem when i get there ?

thanks again for all your comments, always appreciated.

Jose G.

greg_g · Dec 30, 2012

Harming? Yes. By blocking that vent with a closed ball valve, the resultant over-pressure will seek weak points to escape. Fortunately, those weak points are usually gaskets and seals, which are generally inexpensive and not difficult to replace. At least now you know which gaskets and seals to order first. That said, why not just make sure the ball valve stays open just a little way? Closed enough to minimized leakage, open enough to bleed.

Lowering the front loader and/or the rear lift after the engine is shut off, will also push out fluid. Always lower first, shut down second. And to expand a little on over-filling. Mine had a little dipstick under the vent/fill cap, but it only had one line. 50/50 chance if that's the full mark or the low mark. When I did my 50 hour maintenance, I only refilled the hydraulic sump to the line. Then when I pulled it out and the stick was dry, I only topped up to the line. Far far less down the back that way. So in my case, turns out that the single mark was the full point.

Yes also to the diff lock issue. Prioritizing - then tackling one problem at a time - is consistent with my KISS philosophy.

//greg//

RonMar · Dec 30, 2012

If working up hills, it is easy to get oil out of the rear vent/filler cap because it is at the rear end of the reservoir. Raising the vent point up on a hose dosn't really help as the starting point still goes under fluid level when running up hill. The level in the reservoir varies with temperature/expansion and also depending on where cylinders are in their stroke, such as when the loader is in the air vis on the ground. Most all my work on my property is on hills, and I was always leaking oil out the rear vent. This irritated me enough that I did some examining inside with an inspection mirror and found a place up near the top of the casing on the arched part where I could drill and tap a NPT hole. This relocated the vent to the top center of the case and sealed the filler cap vent. The tractor would have to be nearly on it's side to put it under the fluid level. Havn't vented a drop of oil since I did this.

Yep, 26.1 KW is 35HP. Neither of those specs should be on that tractor if it is indeed a 254/284

Affordable · Dec 30, 2012

Sorry to say the engine is a Y385 stamped into the block, its 25 PTO hp,since the chinese figure the hp at PTO.

I got your e-mail and will check the list tommorrow to confirm you have lised everything

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

Jose G · Dec 30, 2012

@Greg: the ball valve will stay ~ 1/32" open until i resolve the problem, thanks for your advise on the lowering also, i always lower the 3pts and FEL when the engine is turn off so ill change my "routine" and be sure all is on the ground when still running.

@Ron: mind posting a picture where you drilled that hole? i may be interested to do the same, for now i was thinking about doing some sort of air separator or even letting a breather filter and changing it every now and then... still thinking about it.

@Tommy: you are fast! thanks in advance... and too bad for the 35 hp hahahahaha ill probably get the little plate off the engine. i may even rebadge the whole tractor as a Jinma

RonMar · Dec 30, 2012

Jose G said:
@Ron: mind posting a picture where you drilled that hole? i may be interested to do the same, for now i was thinking about doing some sort of air separator or even letting a breather filter and changing it every now and then... still thinking about it.

No problem, here is a picture of where I located my alternate vent port a few inches ahead of the filler port. The blue thing is an automotive fuel filter with indicating dessicant(absorbs moisture and turns pink when saturated) added outside the filter element. As you can see I converted the filler cap to a hydraulic return port. I connect a 10 micron polishing filter to this port when I am not using the 3PH to clean the fluid.

I tried the accumulator idea. I made one out of a piece of 1 1/2" black PVC pipe about 6" long with glue-on end caps. I put a hose barb on the bottom cap and a vent hole in the side of the top cap. I zip tied it in a vertical orientation onto the back of the seat and connected to the filler/vent pipe with hose. This worked OK as the pipe tube had enough volume to catch the burped fluid. Since I wanted to incorporate the hydraulic return port into the filler cap(easiest option) I proceeded with the alternate vent...

Circle G Tractors · Dec 31, 2012

Good pics of that front axle Jose, you definatly have a Jinma 254/284 and yes we have EVERY part IN STOCK for that unit. Thanks

Ben
Jinma Tractor Parts, Farm Pro Tractor Parts, Farmpro, Nortrack, Agracat

Jose G · Feb 3, 2013

Hi guys, I forgot to take picture of the repair process, but I manage to clean all the parts in a washing solvent tank (filled with diesel). the 4x4 is working #1 now, took me about 10 hours with most of the time washing the parts/cleaning old gasket.

just so you guys know, I also ordered an upgraded sediment bowl. I was talking about all the parts I had just received and my cousin was here (his job consist in repairing diesel welder), when he saw my super "Upgraded sediment bowl", he start laughing at me and pointed out the part was just a regular Sediment Bowl off a lincoln Diesel Welder he could brought me for about 20$, the Lincoln Sediment bowl is really better than the Stock Jinma one, I'm just disapointed I had to pay to find out it was cheap and available locally.

Now I have to resolve the Hydraulic breather trouble.

Affordable · Feb 4, 2013

Jose, we have a breather you can add to your ROPS, we also have the correct hydraulic plug > The breather Pic is upside down

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

bobunome · Feb 4, 2013

Jose G said:
thanks Tommy to clear this up once for all! (ill order the parts and may want some upgrade if you can provide them, ill write you an email. It was a pleasure to deal with you the first time, your price are right and the shipping is top notch)

still weird it shows 26.1KW on the engine plate (made by the original dealer) as Greg pointed out and on my registration its written 35 hp.
I always doubted and even said it was a lie / trowing numbers to sell... when you never owned a tractor, you dont know what is a 25hp tractor vs a 35hp... you just look at the numbers and hope the best.
Maybe you can boost the tuning on a non turbo diesel like you can do on Car ? changing camshaft, retiming them, maybe he bored the block and put oversized piston or stroked crankshaft :cool2: ? (are they available? lol) etc...? (i dont know much about Diesel engine, im into gas engine) who knows what the original dealer did to the tractor.. (probably nothing, I really think he was BS'ing people with the numbers, KJT 3530 are rare so he may sold a couples at max, then out of business)

About the oil spilling out of the vent tube Greg, i hate when thing are considerated "normal", i hate to see oil on my garage floor also, ill have to fabricate some sort of vent tube i guess... maybe with a water separator from a compressor, ill check into that, the real question is, am i harming the system the way it is right now ? (pressure build up inside the hydraulic reservoir)

now here the other piece missing from the shaft yesterday (i just fixed my camera, had the wrong time in it, that's why its showing 29 for the date)

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that's it for now, im in canada, so i guess ill get the parts somewhere in the middle of january, ill update the thread as it goes...
AND do you guys think i should open up a new thread about the differential lock problem when i get there ?

thanks again for all your comments, always appreciated.

Jose G.