rekees4300
Elite Member
They are based on the tractor's HP.
Snow It's Early - Snow Removal JD 2520
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They are based on the tractor's HP.
castiman
Silver Member
Just moved up from the 2305 to a 2520 this spring. I sold the 47'' blower with the tractor and got the new 54'' blower with the new tractor. I also have the JD 54'' plow blade that I kept. When I first bought it, after useing it a couple of times I thought what a waste of money this thing is. Its useless, so what I did was have a piece of 5/16'' plate 2' x 6' long rolled to the blades shape and bolted it on adding angle iron for support on the top and a new heavier scraper blade. Works great, however it doesn't compare to the blower. Move the snow once and done and no piles. If it was me I would get a front blower and sell it when you move.
OP
urbandeere2520
Bronze Member
I agree, not doubt the front mount 54'' quick hitch snow blower is the way to go in snow prone areas... I just don't want to spend big bucks to buy one and all mounting accessories just to use it for a few years. Hence my interest in the more economical 3 pt hitch model snow blower.
PCABE5
Platinum Member
I didn't catch where your snow country is? I would take just three storms of 2 ft.:laughing:
If your looking at three years or less before you move I would stick with what you have, Troybilt blower and 2520 FEL. You would have to sell whatever you bought before you left (probably not many snowblower sales in NC) and if it is JD specific you will have to find a JD owner that would want it. What happens if you spend $3k for three years or less and then cannot get rid of it?
Seems to me you currently have a tractor for both you and your wife. Only thing is she will decide which is hers.
OP
urbandeere2520
Bronze Member
I'm in northern VA, got 72" of snow in 2010 season. Well, I'd stick with the Troybilt garden tractor 36" snow blower for heavy snow however it doesn't get up my steep driveway with new chains. Two wheel drive and no limited slip differential. I wore out the old chains after 10 years and the tore up my asphalt driveway. With the new chains, the wheel(s) just spin and spin.. so I needed my Jeep to pull the Troybilt back up the hill. Also, installing the snow blower on the Troybilt is a pain in the arse... Hopefully the 2520 will do better job.... with a yet to be purchased 3 pt blower and 61" FEL (have)... granted, the 3 pt blower will be hard to sell, but if I break close to even on my investment, then I'll be happy. Cheers!
whistlepig
Elite Member
Chains are worth their weight in gold. Studded chains, if applicable, are even better. Add a ballast box and you can push snow with anything you want. Blade or FEL.
OP
urbandeere2520
Bronze Member
I don't plan to put chains on my 2520 with un-weighted R4s and 4 wheel drive... this winter will be the "decider"... sounds like George Bush.. We shall see!
So I'm going into winter 2011/2012 with just a 61" FEL and hopefully a 60" 3 pt hitch snow blower... . No chains..
We shall see! So I'm going into winter 2011/2012 with just a 61" FEL and hopefully a 60" 3 pt hitch snow blower... .
No chains..
tomd999
Platinum Member
Hiya,
The 2520 really does need loaded tires. From the Deere manual for the 200cx loader:
REQUIRED MINIMUM BALLAST FOR 2320, 2520, 2720, 4100, 4110 AND 4115 TRACTORS
1 Fluid-filled rear tires and 350 kg (772 lb) of 3-Point Hitch Ballast
2 Three rear wheel weights per wheel and 350 kg (772 lb) of 3-Point Hitch Ballast
If loader is equipped with pallet fork attachment, 85 kg (187 lb) of additional ballast is required.
You can go with bolt on weights but they are expensive compared to beet juice.
Get the weight on the tractor so it's safe to use the loader, especially on those slopes and you will find little need for chains. They are horrible for pavement and I havent had a need for then in 4 years on mine.
My 2 cents
Tom
The 2520 really does need loaded tires. From the Deere manual for the 200cx loader:
REQUIRED MINIMUM BALLAST FOR 2320, 2520, 2720, 4100, 4110 AND 4115 TRACTORS
1 Fluid-filled rear tires and 350 kg (772 lb) of 3-Point Hitch Ballast
2 Three rear wheel weights per wheel and 350 kg (772 lb) of 3-Point Hitch Ballast
If loader is equipped with pallet fork attachment, 85 kg (187 lb) of additional ballast is required.
You can go with bolt on weights but they are expensive compared to beet juice.
Get the weight on the tractor so it's safe to use the loader, especially on those slopes and you will find little need for chains. They are horrible for pavement and I havent had a need for then in 4 years on mine.
My 2 cents
Tom
OP
urbandeere2520
Bronze Member
Tom, I totally agree with your recommendations regarding ballast requirements for the 2520 tractor, since that's what's published in the JD 200CX operator's manual. I have about 1,000 lbs in/on my ballast box and though I'm still a little lighter than a configuration of filled tires and 772 lbs in the ballast box, this combination works for my particular application. I need to keep the tractor light for mowing the yard without the FEL or ballast box installed.
On another note, I'm very sensitive to rear end weight needed for FEL operations. During my first days operating this tractor (no prior experience), I was ejected from the seat of the tractor when it began to roll over (yeah, did not have my seat belt on) while making a high speed turn on a downhill slope (20 degrees) with a loaded bucket high off the ground and the then 600 lb. ballast box in the full up position. I landed on my back 15 feet away from the tractor, and in my late 50's, this hurt. Let's just say this incident was a wake up call for me and fortunately the tractor did not roll over nor was I crushed under its huge mass. Now with 30+ hours of operation, I'm considerably more careful and wiser, additional weight in ballast box, bucket lower when carrying a load, slower operating speed when loaded, and the seat belt tight when operating on slopes.
Back to SNOW... I'm shopping for an inexpensive 3 pt hitch snow blower... such as the Agro Trend 1060 snow blower... I'll keep the FEL on the front and the blower on the rear. Hopefully the 4-wheel drive will do the job with R4 tires since I don't want to use chains on my asphalt driveway.
BTW - I was going to buy a 2305 or a new 1026, but folks advised me to buy one level up... I'm so very glad I did... I absolutely LOVE the 2520.. great tractor...
My wife says our relationship has deteriorated since I bought this tractor, since I'm spending more time on the tractor than her... ;-)Cheers!
JDforMe
New member
I have a JD2305 and use my FEL on the driveway for snow and, while there may be faster/easier methods, I think the FEL may be the most flexible and cost effective unless you get a TON of snow. One nice thing about the loader is the ability to move snow away from the edges of the driveway and keep it from closing in as you get more snow, not to mention the use for the other 3 seasons. I really can't justify several grand for a blower... But then my driveway is only about 100 feet, with a turnaround at the top..... fairly flat and paved. Just my 2 cents.