J.J. Rear Remote Hyd. Return Line ??

[puckgrinder85]

You're really not suppose to use the out as a pressure for something else down the line, that's what PB is for. Although our tractor is plumbed this way as well and has been working fine for some 250hrs. Again it was because someone was lazy. We figured we'd run it to see how much the valve can take and no issues thus far.

 

[L3450]

Okay ishiboo & JJ if I understand correctly now I should get the PB fitting for my loader valve asap and re-plumb as follows until I add a new spool (single or double)

Out port on block to in port on loader valve (already done by dealer)

PB port on loader valve to "in" port on Hyd. block

"Out" port on loader valve to large plug / port on hyd. block (indicated by green arrow in picture)
to make things right till summer when I install rear remotes ??

Once I install the rear remotes I simply need to plumb.....

Loader valve PB to new valve "in port"

PB port on new valve to "in port" on hyd. block

"out port on new valve then Tee' into the drain from loader valve at the large plug indicated by green arrow in picture .

Does this sound right ??

 

[J_J]

No, not exactly.

The PB from the loader should feed the hyd block, and the hyd block feeds the 3pt.

So what you need to do is to fit the remote valve between the hyd block and the 3pt line.

The remote PB out will feed the 3pt.

Now, everything will be is series.and should work correctly.

All OUT lines can be teed together.

 

[ishiboo]

No, not exactly.

The PB from the loader should feeds the hyd block, and the hyd block feeds the 3pt.

So what you need to do is to fit the remote valve between the hyd block and the 3pt line.

The remote PB out will feed the 3pt.

Now, everything will be is series.and should work correctly.

All OUT lines can be teed together.

Bad idea IMHO. It does not matter where in the series it goes. If you do it as you propose, you will have to cut one of the hard lines to the 3 point and deal with either brazing or using compression fittings to fit in some connections in a poorly accessible location. In addition, you will need an additional means to bypass this if you ever remove the valve for any reason.

It can much more easily be added between the "OUT" on the hydraulic block and "IN" on the loader valve, or between the "power beyond" on the loader valve and the "in" on the hydraulic block. These are 3/8 NPT pipe threads connecting to hoses you can much more easily deal with. Both the "IN" and "OUT" on my hydraulic block as well as L3450s would have quick connects for a factory loader, I simply changed these over to ISO Ag connectors. For my post pounder I added long hoses with ISO Ag connectors. I can hook it up before or after the loader valve, it does not matter.

L3450, please look at the diagram it looks like the village idiot crafted. It's correct and simple to do. If you truly do NOT have 3 hoses from the loader valve, definitely get the power beyond port for it.

 

[Leejohn]

Go back and look at the picture of the block, that plug you keep pointing to is the relief valve.

 

[L3450]

Gotcha Leejohn
went back and looked at the parts breakdown and see what you mean....my bad / thanks for keeping me straight on that!

 

[L3450]

Bad idea IMHO. It does not matter where in the series it goes. If you do it as you propose, you will have to cut one of the hard lines to the 3 point and deal with either brazing or using compression fittings to fit in some connections in a poorly accessible location. In addition, you will need an additional means to bypass this if you ever remove the valve for any reason.

It can much more easily be added between the "OUT" on the hydraulic block and "IN" on the loader valve, or between the "power beyond" on the loader valve and the "in" on the hydraulic block. These are 3/8 NPT pipe threads connecting to hoses you can much more easily deal with. Both the "IN" and "OUT" on my hydraulic block as well as L3450s would have quick connects for a factory loader, I simply changed these over to ISO Ag connectors. For my post pounder I added long hoses with ISO Ag connectors. I can hook it up before or after the loader valve, it does not matter.

L3450, please look at the diagram it looks like the village idiot crafted. It's correct and simple to do. If you truly do NOT have 3 hoses from the loader valve, definitely get the power beyond port for it.

Guys i'm seriously starting to wonder why my Loader valve hasn't failed or my Hyd. pump hasn't blown up before now .

 

[J_J]

L3450 ,

Just curious if you have had any problems at all with loader operations not working correctly?

No leaks, no intermittent operations of loader cyl, nothing?

Seems to me, that if you were trying to operate the 3pt and the loader at the same time you would have problems as the back pressure would affect the loader.

 

[L3450]

L3450 ,

Just curious if you have had any problems at all with loader operations not working correctly?

No leaks, no intermittent operations of loader cyl, nothing?

Seems to me, that if you were trying to operate the 3pt and the loader at the same time you would have problems as the back pressure would affect the loader.

I've never been very impressed by the lack of down pressure on the loader lift cylinders / it's rare that i would be using both 3 ph and loader valve at the same time so that may be my saving grace.

JJ on the hyd. block if the control screw is turned to "o" and only the 3 ph works , when it's set to "c" shouldn't i be able to plumb the new valve from

"out port " on hyd. block to "in port ' on loader valve

"PB port" on loader valve to "in port" on new valve

"work ports" to cyl.

"PB port" on new valve to "in port" on hyd. block

Both New & Loader Valve "Out Port" Tee'd together and routed to what I believe is the now (on my tractor) plugged "Tank Port" located on the front of hyd. block allowing the Hyd. block next to the engine oil pan

feed the 3 ph valve via factory steel line and return to tank via the steel line (as set up from factory / dealer)

Would this not keep everything in series as ishiboo suggested ?

 

[J_J]

Either way will work.

Just depends on the amount of plumbing you have to do.

All return lines go to tank.

 

[L3450]

Here's a quick edit which shows the factory loader valve, and then the setup with the new remote valve added. A two spool valve is not much more than a single, so I'd get a 2-spool valve and plug the ports until you need it. (Or if you don't mind, plumb it now!)

Factory loader valve:

View attachment 359940

New setup, your new lines are in color:

View attachment 359941

Note the green line tees to the existing black line, you can do this with simple pipe fittings. Or as I mentioned you can bring it to one of the two red-capped fill ports on the transmission/rear housing, however the rear one has a vent you'll need to replicate if you go that route.

Hope this helps.

ishiboo in your second drawing are your drain lines run to the port on the lower front of the hyd. block closest to the tractor oil pan ?

 

[L3450]

Look at your parts manual and look for the aux. remote valves near the end of the list. Check with your dealer and see if he can order 99063-93300, if so that well give you a way to hook a set of remotes. It goes right under your seat and you well save a lot of $$$$ in hose.

Checked with the dealer today , 99063-93300 is available at a cost of $184.00 / food for thought , thanks for the pointer Leejohn .

 

[L3450]

View attachment 359750

 

[Leejohn]

Checked with the dealer today , 99063-93300 is available at a cost of $184.00 / food for thought , thanks for the pointer Leejohn .

My god! That's just a block with a few holes in it, 2 are tapped and that's about it.

 

[L3450]

My god! That's just a block with a few holes in it, 2 are tapped and that's about it.

I hear you .......going to look at trying to build one myself . Do you have any dimensions / info that i can use for a guideline Leejohn ?

 

[Leejohn]

No I don't and it doesn't show a plate to cover the holes. If it does have one you could use it as a template.