2320 starts fine but is running off the battery. Alternator output voltage is correct at low and high idle. Battery ground connection is clean and tight. Battery voltage is 12.8 running or not. Battery is not charging at all. Battery is new. Old battery was boiling over on one cell when in tractor and when put on charger out of the tractor. No headlights, no glow plug indicator on instrument panel, although you hear the glow plug timer click off like normal about 5 seconds after you turn the key. Parking brake light and engine light are the only 2 lights that come on. Dealer service manager convinced me that it was the voltage regulator so I replaced it. Nothing changed except now I'm $130 poorer and of course they won't take it back. Dealer said check the main wiring harness ground connection but I can't find it. Dealer said it could be the ignition switch but I'm not sure how to check it. It looks OK and has no burns or melted spots. All fuses and the 4 relays I could find all are good. Somewhere on this site I read about a problem caused by the ignition switch being loose and turning slightly when the key is turned, and mine does move slightly when the key is turned. Could this be part or all of my problem? I would think that one of the 4 wires on the key switch would be a ground, but maybe not who knows? I need help!!!!
JD 2320 Electrical Problems
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EdC
Gold Member
Scout
The ignition switch on my 2320 did work loose and caused most of the symptoms you described in your post (I did not check alternator output). The switch should not move at all when you turn the key. You can tighten it down pretty good using a small pair of Channellocks or even using a screwdriver in the little slot in the retaining nut if you don't have the right tool. Make sure that the switch is positioned so the key is vertical when you first put it in the keyhole; it takes the strain off of the wires.
I did have to replace the battery afterwards but have not had anymore problems in more than 100 hrs of operation. Maybe you won't have to replace the battery since yours is new.
Hope that fixes it.
The ignition switch on my 2320 did work loose and caused most of the symptoms you described in your post (I did not check alternator output). The switch should not move at all when you turn the key. You can tighten it down pretty good using a small pair of Channellocks or even using a screwdriver in the little slot in the retaining nut if you don't have the right tool. Make sure that the switch is positioned so the key is vertical when you first put it in the keyhole; it takes the strain off of the wires.
I did have to replace the battery afterwards but have not had anymore problems in more than 100 hrs of operation. Maybe you won't have to replace the battery since yours is new.
Hope that fixes it.
Thanks Ed. I thought that when the other guy mentioned that a loose ignition switch fixed his problem I figured it was because it was losing ground. This morning I realized that the switch is mounted on plastic so ground is not the issue. My switch is only slightly loose and stays verticle when you turn the key, but I'll tighten it down. If its stilll the same I'm going to find the headlights wire and trace backwards until I find voltage. Maybe I'll find a loose connector or ???. Everything was fine till the battery developed a short. I just can't imagine one thing that could go bad and cause all of these symtoms. You say your 2320 had most of the symtoms that mine has, and all you did was tighten down the ignition switch and the problem was fixed, that's amazing. I'm going to try it!!!
tomd999
Platinum Member
Hi,
Most charging systems have fuesable links as well as the fuse/relay box. If you shorted a cell, you could have popped that.
Just a WAG but something to check,
Tom
Most charging systems have fuesable links as well as the fuse/relay box. If you shorted a cell, you could have popped that.
Just a WAG but something to check,
Tom
EdC
Gold Member
Scout
Let us know if tightening the ignition switch works. Mine was a bit looser than what I understand yours to be; it would rotate almost a quarter of an inch. I probably should have done a more complete job of troubleshooting but once the tractor started up I moved on to other things. By no means do I know WHY what I did worked. My tractor keeps getting older and I still use it pretty hard so one of these days I am going to have to buy the shop manuals (CDs?).
Let us know if tightening the ignition switch works. Mine was a bit looser than what I understand yours to be; it would rotate almost a quarter of an inch. I probably should have done a more complete job of troubleshooting but once the tractor started up I moved on to other things. By no means do I know WHY what I did worked. My tractor keeps getting older and I still use it pretty hard so one of these days I am going to have to buy the shop manuals (CDs?).
Lobo56
Silver Member
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- John Deere 2210 & JD 650 1968 - 140 H-1 & 1969 - 140 H-3 , 1973 JD 11O
I had the same problem, test your safety relays if the one by voltage regulator is bad you battery will go died. I tested the alternator it was putting right voltage out checked diodes and ground drove me crazy. The last thing was safety relays and the one by regulator was bad put a new one in and it started charging again.
Did it cause an over voltage and all the bulbs blew? I talked to the guys at the JD shop, they only guessing what the problem might be and it could take several shop hours to find and fix. not including the cost of the components they will have to replace until they find the problem.
Thanks for your input I will check the safety relays next.
Thanks for your input I will check the safety relays next.
Milton Allen
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