I guess I should have read more closely. You temp gauge is integral with the instrument cluster which makes it difficult to diagnose. It must have several plugs on the back. I would check each connection carefully and maybe you will find a corroded terminal or bad connection. A wiring diagram should tell you which connection does what and that way you can tell which is for the temp gauge.
JD 4600 temperature goes in the red within a minute or so running from cold.
- Thread starter zaschf
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- john deere 4600
Hello Zaschf,
I have the same JD4600 with the same problem. The gauge pegs hot within a few minutes of operation. When I touch the side of the cylinder block it's barely even warm. The coolant in the radiator is also barely warm.
JD wants about $80 for this sensor.
Did you figure out what's going on with your tractor?
I have the same JD4600 with the same problem. The gauge pegs hot within a few minutes of operation. When I touch the side of the cylinder block it's barely even warm. The coolant in the radiator is also barely warm.
JD wants about $80 for this sensor.
Did you figure out what's going on with your tractor?
It's not the sensor. I did replace it and it didn't fix the problem.
It turns out to be the gauge which, as you well know, is integrated in the console and can't be replaced on it's own.
Don't even try to get a new console. You have to be really rich, like Bill Gates or so, to afford one
Just get a cheap automotive gauge and sender and bolt it somewhere inconspicuous but still in view.
Cheers,
Frits.
It turns out to be the gauge which, as you well know, is integrated in the console and can't be replaced on it's own.
Don't even try to get a new console. You have to be really rich, like Bill Gates or so, to afford one
Just get a cheap automotive gauge and sender and bolt it somewhere inconspicuous but still in view.
Cheers,
Frits.
oldpilgrim
Elite Member
It looks like you're ignoring the thermostat suggestions, unless I've missed a post somewhere.
klcoble
New member
It's not the cotton picking thermostat, we aren't a bunch of ninnies. It's got to be the gauge itself that is bad. If connection was corroded or loose the resistance would be higher thus the reading would be a colder gauge reading.
No air pockets. Thermostat changed, sending unit changed, wire checked. ?has to be the gauge.
No air pockets. Thermostat changed, sending unit changed, wire checked. ?has to be the gauge.
oldpilgrim
Elite Member
I'm not a ninnie either. Nowhere above did he say he replaced the thermostat.
Citydude
Elite Member
Wow, what a way to give feedback. 2nd post no less...
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I took out my temperature sensor and put it into a pan of water. I measured the resistance as it heated up. It started out at about 1K when warm and dropped down to about 30 ohms at boiling. So I am inclined to think that the sensor is OK. As suggested by zaschf, I agree that the only thing left is the circuitry in the instrument panel. Under no circumstances does the machine ever get overheated. On the contrary, I am inclined to think that the thermostat is screwed up and is stuck OPEN all the time since the engine never reaches what I would expect to be a reasonable operating temperature. After running for a half-hour, I can take off the radiator cap and see coolant flowing. If I thrust my finger in there, it's luke warm -- that's another issue entirely.
I work on electronics all the time, so figuring out what's wrong with the panel shouldn't be very difficult - the only issue is the labor and the time to remove it.
I work on electronics all the time, so figuring out what's wrong with the panel shouldn't be very difficult - the only issue is the labor and the time to remove it.
Even if the thermostat was stuck open or stuck closed it would not cause the engine to overheat within a couple minutes of starting.
