JD Model 70 resurrection

[beenthere]

Any other ideas of where we should go?

For visits, the Pavilion is just across the MS river in Moline, IL, and should do at least a drive-by the JD headquarters on John Deere Pkwy. A visit there will also be rewarding for the huge antique vintage display. A tour of the factory there will be rewarding as well. Also the ALCOA aluminum factory is in Davenport, at least I think it is still there.


If for the manual, ordering one from Deere is possible too, if the Davenport dealer can't do it for you.

Have a good time.

 

[buickanddeere]

Re: pictures, take two

I think, if you are talking about lead additive to the fuel for the 70, that there are different schools of thought.
The original valves in the 70 likely needed the lead to keep from burning the edges, but some think there would be enough carbon deposit that the unleaded fuel wouldn't bother.
Can't help with a suggestion to add lead or not. Others more knowledgeable may chime in on that subject (as well, might be worth it to search on TBN for info that can help you out).

I don't know where or how this lead additive concept is still around ? How many miles have diesels operated under without "lead to lubricate the exhaust valves"? Goes for LP and NG engines too.
Ever since lead was removed from all gasoline in the mid 1980's. Gasoline engines that are still running just fine at 300,000miles are normal and unremarkable . Back in the bad old days of lead. If an engine happened to last 100,000 miles without a rebuild. It was a missing, knocking, smoke spewing, oil burning under powered clunker.
If Anybody advocates "lead additive" to you . Tell them you know exactly where that additive belongs.

 

[beenthere]

Re: pictures, take two

When lead was removed from gasoline, the valves were changed to accommodate that change. So for some new engines that did not have the new valves, lead apparently was added to lessen the burning of the edges.

 

[buickanddeere]

Re: pictures, take two

When lead was removed from gasoline, the valves were changed to accommodate that change. So for some new engines that did not have the new valves, lead apparently was added to lessen the burning of the edges.

Not all engines were changed. Most cast iron head gassers to this day only have induction hardened seats and no changes to the valves. Vintage gassers built prior to unleaded fuel are operating just fine to this day. The removal of lead has virtually eliminated sludge inside the engine.

 

[flusher]

Welcome to TBN. Join the fun:thumbsup:

That's a nice big old 70. I have it's little brother--a 1949 JD B wide front.



Have fun. Be careful out there--that 70 is a beast.

 

[OldSchoolGirl]

The Pavillion was fun, WISH we had gone to Alcoa because Louise actually needs some more sheet aluminum for the '62 Airstream she's restoring..her fabricating skills aren't quite what they should be.

Got the manuals in Davenport, also the clutch wheel dust cover. Saw several 70's on the Iowa backroads, pretty fun to see so many. There is a nice one in Waterloo for sale on ebay right now, jsyk.

There is a Starter Motor Shift Lever for sale on ebay right now as well - I think we will buy it just in case that's the culprit, and he has some of the linkage parts for sale as well.

T&L

 

[OldSchoolGirl]

View attachment 395042View attachment 395041View attachment 395039View attachment 395040

Back at the ranch.

Clutch dust cover fit with some persuasion. Glad to have the manuals to look at.

Took the flywheel cover off and found a couple dead mice and a bunch of gunk packed in around the bottom of the connecting rod, so I cleaned that out, took the pin out of the yoke/shift lever connection and cleaned that off, took the switch off the the motor (motor had been replaced in 93, according to the sticker on it) and cleaned up the corrosion, put it all back together. Quite a bit of play in the yoke and again in the operating rod, but cleaning that gunk and mouse nest out must have been enough, because the starter works correctly now, and with only one person! The hardest part was screwing that starter button (formerly know as the stomp peg..) back on - that spring kept interfering.

And now I see where the expression, "the tractor leapt into action" came from... holy cow, putting it in third while I was mowing...my front wheels leave the ground every time. Kind of exciting.

There is one major place I'm concerned about on the tractor, shown in the first picture. Looks like it was glued together with some JD green paint some time ago...Thoughts on what to do here. Looks like major part replacement to me?

T&L

 

[beenthere]

Assume it is the far right picture of the intake and exhaust manifold that you are concerned about. Does look like some heavy green paint added there, and have to wonder what the corrosion is below it. If it isn't leaking, then hold your breath and hope it holds together. Hope it isn't "glued". See the manifolds on eBay now for under $300 for the 70 gas
Attached shows parts of the manifolds.

Good on the starter fix. And don't need to shove the clutch in so's to make the front end jump if you don't want it to. Ease the clutch for engage and then be sure to snap it tight so it doesn't keep slipping. Lesson #1 from Dad and Uncle when using hand clutch.

 

[Mace Canute]

I have a gas 70 with an 8' blade on it. Works great for pushing snow with a very fast reverse gear on them! A friend built a custom carriage for the dozer from the blade back that would be strong enough to last under a 5020! He definitely believed in the old adage "Leave no doubt, build it stout!" Of all the tractors I own I like the looks of the 70 best. Here's a web pic of one; mine isn't as pretty..yet!

 

[beenthere]

Would like to see a pic of yours with the snow blade fabrication. Maybe put it in the "Snow Equip/Op/Owning" thread too.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/snow-removal/184041-pictures-your-snow-weapons-222.html