JD Power SSQA upgrade

[Jim Timber]

My diverter on my hydraulic SSQA has some leakage but any leakage through the diverter is equal to both side of the piston cylinder, base end/extend side has more push force at same pressure than rod end so cylinder stays extended, locked on tight.

This is exactly the scenario I envisioned too.

The other aspect I'd considered is that maximal force would only be applied while clamping, so as long as the cylinders are all phased the same (extend retract on the same ports of the diverter), the seepage would only be seen to further clamp the levers down, not to open them when the lids retracted. Any max PSI on retract would be momentary at best and not a concern.

As for Dave's suggestion of the momentary switch; the toggle I have is illuminated with a red tip. I'm pretty sure I'll be mounting it on the base of the joystick, but I haven't put any holes in yet. It'll be very easy to "attach" and lock it out as a matter of practice. I still need the primary diverter momentary switch depressed before anything goes to that secondary valve (aside from seepage - which I've found to be minor after a year's use).

Got some T-bolt band clamps today and shortened them to be the right size for my diverter bracket. The Home Depot screw clamps weren't strong enough to put the kind of force I want on the diverter bracket - the T-bolts will be much better. Eventually, I'll probably weld on a bracket, but until I get this operational and in use for a while, I'm not willing to commit that much to the cause. I will be welding on the hose clamps to keep the lines out of harms way around the timing rod and SSQA plates, but that's not a big deal if I need to move them later.

 

[dstig1]

Was just a couple thoughts from my experience... As they say Keep or Toss!

I was able to reuse the bolt holes for the tubing guard for my 3rd function mount. Maybe an option for you if you have something similar? I just need to match the thread with longer bolts. I don't have a pic of this from the backside, but I bet you get the gist.

 

[Jim Timber]

My hoses are hard lines across the top of the support tube on the loader and are only zip tied on. No brackets to utilize, or I would've done it when I put the 3rd function on.

 

[Jim Timber]

There's a lot of room on the joystick tower with nothing on the inside aside from the linkages (which are central to the column).

So if I put a switch down on the back side here, it'd be out of the way, yet easily accessible.

 

[Jim Timber]

Needs a little correction for an over-center issue on the right side (thus the bungee), but otherwise, it works!

Shop built Power SSQA v1.0 - YouTube

 

[Xfaxman]

:thumbsup:

 

[Jim Timber]

After 17 years, my Hobart Hood's battery died after spending the winter in my conex box. I suppose it felt neglected since I got a new one last year.

At any rate, I only put 4 tacks per plate since I was running blind with the baby HH125. If I'd been at home, I could've cooked in the 4 corners by sound and never thought about it again.

After about 6 hours work, they're still holding. I got a new battery for the hood and will finish these up tomorrow.

 

[JJZ 109]

All I know is that I really like my power Bob Tach. People can make fun all they want. I change attachment and never leave the seat.

 

[Jim Timber]

I used it twice yesterday and I'm already glad I have it.

Were I to do it again, I'd pony up for individual cylinders. Not because of the geometry being so close to binding if one side latches first, but just for ease of build. This is a Bobcat quicktach cylinder, so it's made for this configuration. Using dual 4"s or something would just be easier to get the eye tabs set up.

I need to correct a slight over-travel on the right locking lever and I won't need the bungee anymore. It might not even matter when hooking up, but without any resistance on the left latch, that side slams down and there isn't enough off-center force on the right to get it to toggle down so it binds.

 

[downsizingnow48]

I wanted a SSQA for my B21, had to make it. Starting from scratch, it was easier for me to use two small cylinders to operate the pins than to make two over-center hand latches. I thought it was possibly overkill at the time. But in use, it is very handy indeed.