Jim's Pole Barn Project - hopefully

   / Jim's Pole Barn Project - hopefully #221  
Re: Jim\'s Pole Barn Project - hopefully

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( but try to commercial girts if you plan on insulating it. )</font>
What are commercial girts? what's different about them?

Why Do You Need Them To Insluate Th PB?
 
   / Jim's Pole Barn Project - hopefully #222  
Re: Jim\'s Pole Barn Project - hopefully

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I am not sure that it is the best place to start. If at some point you want a cement floor in the pole barn you will have to remove all of that grass and topsoil. Even if you don't plan on having a cement floor right away it would be easiest to remove the grass and topsoil before the poles go up.

This is just my opinion so maybe others will jump in here with theirs.

Spence )</font>
*************************
31 years in the housing business taught me one thing;and that is you can't have the sight to well prepaired.
 
   / Jim's Pole Barn Project - hopefully #223  
Re: Jim\'s Pole Barn Project - hopefully

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( SIR,
forgive me for saying this, but your 30X48 will not be large enough.
i have a 30X50, and it is not big enough. if you plan to store all of
the vehicles, and still have a shop, you need to go with a much
larger building. i sure wish i had. i need it 2 times larger now, and
with that i still think it would not hold everything i have. i was
surfing another website, and this subject came up, and the question
was how large is large enough? the answer. figure how much space
you will need, double it, and add 30%. this would come close to what
i need now.
good luck with your projects.
accordionman
william l. brown )</font>

I built one 30 x 52 with 4 13' wide bays.If i had it to do over I would have made it 56 feet long so all my stalls would be 14' wide.
The same year I bult another one 22 x 76. It has 5 12 wide stalls and 0ne 16 wide stall for my Tractor.
I also have a closed in car port 24 wide by 20 feet deep with 2 12' bays. All in all I have a total of 12 stalls.

I am thinking of adding 5 10' wide bays to the 22x 76 building.
 
   / Jim's Pole Barn Project - hopefully #224  
Re: Jim\'s Pole Barn Project - hopefully

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Jim: for the poles at least?


Joe )</font>

I'm thinking of trying something different for the poles.

Anyone seen a pole building using regular framing limber insted of the treated post. ??
 
   / Jim's Pole Barn Project - hopefully #225  
Re: Jim\'s Pole Barn Project - hopefully

I have seen people do that on a regular basis. Most use pressure treated in the ground then go to regular lumber above ground. If working off of cement then you could use regular lumber the whole way. I know some lumber yards bid this way when giving quotes (84 lumber comes to mind). The advantage of using 2x material is that it won't twist anywhere near what a pressure treated post would. The disadvantage is that it requires more time to build the post and if you don't have a air nailer it takes some muscle to drive all the nails to hold the 2x's together.
 
   / Jim's Pole Barn Project - hopefully #226  
Re: Jim\'s Pole Barn Project - hopefully

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Jim, I would leave any bracing that you can. Unless it is in the way of putting up your horizontal boards I would leave it.

Spence )</font>
I didn't remove the bracing till the walls were framed and trusses set.
 
   / Jim's Pole Barn Project - hopefully #227  
Re: Jim\'s Pole Barn Project - hopefully

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have seen people do that on a regular basis. Most use pressure treated in the ground then go to regular lumber above ground. If working off of cement then you could use regular lumber the whole way. I know some lumber yards bid this way when giving quotes (84 lumber comes to mind). The advantage of using 2x material is that it won't twist anywhere near what a pressure treated post would. The disadvantage is that it requires more time to build the post and if you don't have a air nailer it takes some muscle to drive all the nails to hold the 2x's together. )</font>

I have a pole building built with 4x4 treated post all the way on 8' centers.
I am thinking of adding 50 feet to the end of the building using pressure treated in the ground then go to regular lumber above ground.
I plan on using 3 two by fours to make the post. Treated to about 3 feet above ground and reg. on up.
A 4x4 is actually 3.5 x 3.5 whereas 3 two by fours measure 3.5x 4.5 thus resulting in heaver post for the extension than those in the main building.
BTW the 4x4s are doing just fine just want to try something different on the extension.
 
   / Jim's Pole Barn Project - hopefully #228  
Re: Jim\'s Pole Barn Project - hopefully

Never pour the concrete to surface level.Stop about 6 to 12 inches below ground when filling the holes with concrete..
 
   / Jim's Pole Barn Project - hopefully #229  
Re: Jim\'s Pole Barn Project - hopefully

Where I live, the
1* building would not get through the engineering review stage if the poles were not cemented.
5string
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~````
1* another example of codes causing problems instead of preventing them.

Trouble with codes is they are dreamed up by those not in the business who think they know more about a business than those who are in the business.
 
   / Jim's Pole Barn Project - hopefully #230  
Re: Jim\'s Pole Barn Project - hopefully

When we built our barn we used 4x6 and 6x6 pressure treated post. I don't mind using regular post and do not have a problem with them. Our biggest problem is with the purlins wanting to warp before we get them on the wall and covered. Screws help a lot with this problem though. I have no plans to build my own post for our next barns and will continue using pressure treated post for the simple fact that they work fine for us. Like the old saying, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" Take care.
 

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