Jinma 204 - Problems getting it started

[bluechip]

Either is a bad idea and can do a lot of damage to an engine. I would certainly heat the glow plugs and see if that helps.
remove the main injector line (into the side of the injector) and crank the engine make sure the pump is pumping to each injector. If so you might want to remove the injectors and have them tested on a test pump. You may be able to remove them and reattach the lines and test fire them on the engine but with the solid lines it is not easy and you risk bending/cracking a fuel line. New injectors are probably cheaper than overhauling the existing ones, but before we jump to that option, hot wire the glow plugs for 20 seconds and see if that helps. If you are getting some grey out the exhaust, you have some fuel getting in. Best of luck.

 

[Wayne_Freeman]

You have many very good suggestions here and I recommend you methodically run through them. Begin at the end of the first hose leaving the sediment bowl. Take this banjo loose and clean the screen filter and free flow fuel into a bucket long enough to make sure it flows OK. Prime and bleed you injector pump. When fully primed you can hear fuel actually returning to the fuel tank via the return line. Next fix your glo plugs. John's web site will help you do that. I have my second Jinma and this one likes a few seconds of glo before starting even when it is 100 degrees outside. If I don't glo a little my tractor does just what you describe although this may or may not be your problem. If that does not fix it then remove the three lines on the injector pump output and watch each one pump as you turn the engine over. It will shoot fuel up about 1/4" on each output unless something is wrong. I have removed my glo plugs and you can phsycally inspect them for clogs etc with no problem. I would leave testing to an expert. I am relatively sure you have a fuel starvation problem. Also, make sure all of your fuel lines and fittings are tight. A small air leak will cause this also. You will be surprised how easy it was to fix when you finally hit the solution.

 

[SPIKER]

white JA:

don't fret about changing the injector pump just yet.

lets get soem trouble shooting done, white smoke is getting a bit of fuel not enough to RUn though. like stated get the glow plugs going but that should not be needed with the temps we have out side right now...

pull ONE hard line from off the injector pump, and try cranking the engine over by HAND with the DECOMPRESSION level ON so it is decompressed. not that hard to do once it is decompressed. decompress it and crank a bit with the starter too but it goes a bit to fast to actually SEE the fuel well up in the removed fitting hole.


once you SEE fuel welling up you are getting somefuel maybe just not enough. clean ALL the lines too, by removing and blowing out and such check all the bango fitting as they have small orfices that can get plugged and some have screens under them. someone suggested opening the line banjo fitting AT the pump to see if fuel flows freely it should gravity flow out of the fitting.. if so then problem lies elsewhere if it does not then pull the fuel bowl and check for clogged screen above the fuel bowl and check the fiting for possable junk in it.

keep plugging away and we will help get you running.

Mark M

 

[white_ja]

Thanks to all of you for the suggestions. I have some more info. Today, I removed the two hard lines from the top of the injection pump, leading to the injectors, and inspected them for blockage. I blew through them and they were clear. Then, I cranked over the engine and watched the fuel flow from the 2 open fittings. There was some, but only a small amount, of fuel coming from the right fitting. The left fitting didn't produce any fuel. Pumping the manual primer doesn't help.

I believe I am getting fuel to the injection pump. I loosened each of the 2 screws located just below each hard line fitting and fuel flows easily, especially when I pump the primer. I also loosened the hard line, banjo fitting on the left side of the injection pump. It flowed fuel freely. Finally, I closed the shutoff on the sediment bulb and pumped the primer. The pump handle didn't want to return until I opened the valve back up. So, I suspect that I have the correct setting for OPEN.

Have I failed to prime the injection pump correctly? If so, is there a step-by-step procedure?

Thanks again for all your help!

 

[SPIKER]

White JA:

Sounds like you are doing OK in priming, do you have an extra FUEL filter? should be one in the tool BOX that came with the tractor. I would remove and replace the fuel filter, FILLING it up prior to installing it.

by cracking the OUT line form the pumps the fuel should squirt up a little bit on each handle pump. on the lines that are loose from the OUT to INJECTORS lines that is. ONE line loose or removed is ll thst should be needed. once you have good fuel spirt out of that fitting when pumping then tighten it on the top of the injector and loosen the top where it attaches to the injector. pump untill flue comes out there. lots of pumping I know, you're arm will get tired. (reason everyone will say NEVER run you're diesle dry!) lol.

then do same for the other 2 lines. once those are bleed the engine should fire right off.

with a LITTLE out of one line is normal LOTS out is not so U suspect that there may be a blockage UPSTREAM of the pump that is why replace the filter. also when filter is off, remove the lines and check for screens, feed line has them so I suspece other lines may have them too.

pump should be FINE, but could have some internal rust started which maybe a problem for you now? that rust should work it's way off oretty quick as there is not a hole lot of internal componets to GO BAD on these... I don't have a spare injection pump but I know they are avaialbe and can be installed easily enough several GOOD posts aobut doing this for RE-TIMEING the pump as well, on JOHN S's site. http://johnstractor.homestead.com/ read the assembly info for the bleeding procedure and the JINMA MAINTERNANCE info too many little box links for lots of reading & Tshooting.

Mark M
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[white_ja]

Today, I changed the fuel filter. BTW, I saw on this forum that folks are using the NAPA 3195 fuel filter for the Jinma tractors. I bought one and filled it with fuel before I realized it was too tall and won't fit between the filter base and the linkage. Does anyone know a NAPA filter that will fit this tractor? I have already installed the 1626 oil filter and changed the oil. Anyway, back to my problem. Before I removed the fuel filter, I was getting a small (and I mean tiny) bit of fuel from the second connector on top of the injection pump where the hard line connects to the #2 injector. After filling the fuel filter (from the blue box) and installing it back on the base, I manually pumped until fuel flowed from each fitting connected to the fuel filter base. Next, I opened the bleeder screws on the top-front of the injection pump and pumped to make sure there was fuel in the pump. I tightened them back and proceeded to pump and pump and pump. I can not get any fuel out of the couplings. Now, the couplings I'm referring to are the 2 male fittings on top of the injection pump with male threads that the 2 hard lines connect to (my tractor is a 2 cylinder). They are secured in place by a clamp and screw to keep from from turning. After finally giving up, I removed the clamp and removed one of the male couplings to see if there was a blockage. Inside is a plunger, similar to a needle and seat in a carburator, help in place by a spring. With the spring removed, I gently pumped the handle and fuel flowed with little effort. I replaced the assembly and tried to prime the pump again with the same results as before. How can the pump not work? There should be no air in the system up to the injection pump. I wonder if the manual pump is not strong enough to overcome the pressure of the spring holding down on the needle. It does leak around the shaft as I pump.

I've done everything else that was suggested here. I removed every fuel line on the tractor and made sure it wasn't clogged and fuel is flowing. I tightened each fitting to make sure there are no leaks. I changed the fuel filter. The sediment bulb valve is open. My tank is 3/4 full. Is there any other way to bleed this thing?

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[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I've done everything else that was suggested here. )</font>
Except for restoring your glow plug circuit. These engines are notoriously cold blooded - even in warm weather. Once started and warm - fine. But cold starting Jinmas requires glow plugs almost without exception.

You only have to get these engine started - and running - on ONE cylinder. From there the engine will finish priming itself. Assuming you've put everything back together correctly on a previously good injection system, restore the glow plug circuit and try starting again. If after 30-40 seconds of chuffing on one cylinder the 2nd one doesn't catch, THEN go back and look at the fuel system.

I used WIX filters on mine, fuel filter # 33361 and oil filter # 51381. But it was a 3 cylinder. Dunno if they'll cross over to your duece though.

//greg//

 

[white_ja]

Greg_g, I forget to mention that I wired a momentary switch to my glow plugs. I turn my ignition switch on and then hold my glow plug button for about 20-30 seconds. Still no luck.

I just had a thought. Should I loosen the male couplings on top of the injection pump until fuwl flows out? Maybe that will help it prime. What do ya think?

 

[greg_g]

Didja verify voltage to the glow plugs? If you don't have a multimeter, you should see them pulling a good 20A on your ammeter, decreasing as the glow plugs heat

//greg//

 

[white_ja]

I read somewhere on this site that the 1381 was for a gas engine and the 1626 was better suited for diesel. The 1626 is a bit bigger. Which I kinda like.

BTW. I use both WIX and NAPA. WIX makes filters for NAPA. I work for Dana who owns WIX filters and I used to work for NAPA. So, I can vouch for them both. Best filters on the market. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif