jlr224
New member
I was wondering if any one has installed a block heater on their jinma?If so is it a standard heater or special size?Also how do you punch the plug out of the block?I'm from Canada gets very cold!Thank you.
Egon
Epic Contributor
If in doubt use an inline heater on the bottom rad hoze. It will work just as well.
Egon
Egon
RonMar
Elite Member
The freeze plugs are soft, a large flat screwdriver or chisel and hammer should allow you to tap around the edges and fold them in toward the middle. This should also deform and loosen the plug. You should then be able to grab the edges with vise grips and remove the plug. If your freeze plugs are in and working, I wouldn't mess with them. As mentioned, A lower radiator heater will do the same job and be much easier to install with less chance of leaks/problems. My brother-in-law had a problem with a freeze plug on his ford and it drained the cooling system while working. Without water conducting the heat to the temp sender, that housing has to get awful hot to show a dangerous temp on the gauge.
Don't forget a heater on the oil pan to get that cold jello turned back into motor oil so it flows when you crank it over
When in Alaska, I used to do both of the above on my truck, plus a section of water pipe heat tape wraped around the oil filter and held in place with pipe clamps. A little bit of pre-heat in the morning and my cold wx starts were always "warm" with almost immediate oil pressure, just like in the summer.
Don't forget a heater on the oil pan to get that cold jello turned back into motor oil so it flows when you crank it over
When in Alaska, I used to do both of the above on my truck, plus a section of water pipe heat tape wraped around the oil filter and held in place with pipe clamps. A little bit of pre-heat in the morning and my cold wx starts were always "warm" with almost immediate oil pressure, just like in the summer.
dogfarm
Member
I agree with not messing with the freeze plugs. How about a magnetic block heater? Has anyone any experience with those? Also how much heat do you need? I see a dipstick heater is available with 90 watts - seems that wouldn't be enough at 20 below zero. They have block heaters at 180 and 300 watts on tractorpartsinc.com for $29.85 and 53.03 respectively. I can't tell from the website how may watts the radiator hose heaters put out. They are a little cheaper at $25.20, but I would think a heater attached to the oilpan would be more effective in aiding cold starting than a heater attached to the cooling system.
What say those in northern climes?
What say those in northern climes?
Egon
Epic Contributor
In northerclimes the inline heater is just as effective as a block heater. Leave it plugged in for longer periods and it will also warm up the oil. The coolant circulates and heats the block. Seems to be a lot of missinterpetation on this issue. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Brrr!
Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Brrr!
Ranch_Hand_Supp
Advertiser
jlr224, I also recommend the heater for the lower rad. hose.
Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply
Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
A recommendation based upon my own experience with three tractors - is an oil pan heater. And NOT the dipstick kind. I have had the best of luck with a pan heater made by Wolverine. It's epoxied on to the outside of the oilpan, and a thermocouple keeps the oil at a constant 125F when plugged in.
Heat rises, and the lowest point in your engine is the oil pan. I've yet to see a water heater that efficiently heats the oil. But almost all decent oil pan heaters eventually warm the water jackets as well.
//greg//
Heat rises, and the lowest point in your engine is the oil pan. I've yet to see a water heater that efficiently heats the oil. But almost all decent oil pan heaters eventually warm the water jackets as well.
//greg//
Ranch_Hand_Supp
Advertiser
jlr224, only a opinion and with very little EXPERIENCE in needing to use any type of engine heater due to the climates I have lived. I have installed a few in the lower rad. hose for customers over the years and replaced some bad/leaking block heaters mostly on trucks and few tractors.
The guys that live in and around youre area know cold weather better than I. If a Rad hose heater works for then ...then it should work for you.
I think either one would do the job......pan heater/ rad hose type. But not dip stick style. When the engine is cold...it is acting like a big heat sink.
Pan Heater: Requires to be glued on [epoxied], the pan surface requires to be clean so it will stick/hold, the paint on the pan has to be adhered well....cause that is what the glue sticks to. If the paint turns loose? If the glued on pan heater goes bad and needs to be replaced. I guess you hammer, grind, pick it off trying not to damage the oil pan on youre back?? I have seen a couple of pan heaters come loose around the edges?? dont know why? I guessed it was because both engines had a oil leak...and the oil did it?....beats me
Rad. Hose heater: Cut to fit and install with clamps. Refill cooling system. If it goes bad?? not much to do to replace. and I don't have to lay down to replace it.
I have never install a heater on a Jinma [yet]. I think I read on Johns tractor site that someone used a 1 1/2 for the lower hose?
let us know how it goes
Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply
The guys that live in and around youre area know cold weather better than I. If a Rad hose heater works for then ...then it should work for you.
I think either one would do the job......pan heater/ rad hose type. But not dip stick style. When the engine is cold...it is acting like a big heat sink.
Pan Heater: Requires to be glued on [epoxied], the pan surface requires to be clean so it will stick/hold, the paint on the pan has to be adhered well....cause that is what the glue sticks to. If the paint turns loose? If the glued on pan heater goes bad and needs to be replaced. I guess you hammer, grind, pick it off trying not to damage the oil pan on youre back?? I have seen a couple of pan heaters come loose around the edges?? dont know why? I guessed it was because both engines had a oil leak...and the oil did it?....beats me
Rad. Hose heater: Cut to fit and install with clamps. Refill cooling system. If it goes bad?? not much to do to replace. and I don't have to lay down to replace it.
I have never install a heater on a Jinma [yet]. I think I read on Johns tractor site that someone used a 1 1/2 for the lower hose?
let us know how it goes
Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Pan Heater: Requires to be glued on [epoxied], the pan surface requires to be clean so it will stick/hold, the paint on the pan has to be adhered well....cause that is what the glue sticks to. If the paint turns loose? If the glued on pan heater goes bad and needs to be replaced. I guess you hammer, grind, pick it off trying not to damage the oil pan on youre back?? I have seen a couple of pan heaters come loose around the edges?? dont know why? I guessed it was because both engines had a oil leak...and the oil did it?....beats me )</font>
I've only had experience with the Wolverine, and it's all been good. My guess is that if you've seen pan heaters come loose, they simply weren't installed right. I use a wire wheel on an angle grinder to take a spot on the pan down to bare metal. Wolverine provides all the rest of the installation essentials, including silver silicone to seal the edges. Nothing CAN get underneath. I've installed three already, and I drive through some pretty rough stuff. Ain't lost one yet.
//greg//
I've only had experience with the Wolverine, and it's all been good. My guess is that if you've seen pan heaters come loose, they simply weren't installed right. I use a wire wheel on an angle grinder to take a spot on the pan down to bare metal. Wolverine provides all the rest of the installation essentials, including silver silicone to seal the edges. Nothing CAN get underneath. I've installed three already, and I drive through some pretty rough stuff. Ain't lost one yet.
//greg//
