Jinma 284 Charging Problem

[MadMopar]

OK, my first post here.

Can anyone tell me or send a picture of where the voltage regulator is on this 2008 Jinma 284.

I have a charging problem with it. I have a battery idiot light on it and it stays on all the time. When the battery gets weak it won't start or is slow and I charge the battery and it is good for a while. I am at the point that I need to fix this charging issue (if for no other reason than that I don't like my equipment not working right).

I have seen where everyone has different opinions on changing out the alternator to Delco. I did see that Affordable now has an alternator that puts out 350 watts now. I'm not sure what that equates to, but I'm assuming that it puts out my charging amps that the original 200 watt.

Of course the 170.00 price tag to use the OEM is a little steep, but then I am in a dirty climate and like the idea of the sealed alternator.

I want to make sure I cover all my bases (checking connections and the voltage regulator) before I buy the alternator.

May sound stupid, but I want to make sure I got this right.

 

[mrmikey]

On my 204 it's on the fuse panel on the fire wall, it plugs in so first thing I'd do is check for a bad connection. Just an FYI, both my alternator and regular were bad from day one and ended up replacing both. I still get an occasional flicker from the light but it'll go out if I turn something on.....Mike

 

[MadMopar]

Thanks Mike.

I'll check that with the alternator connections tomorrow. Maybe I'll get lucky and it'll just have a bad connection.

I don't think I'll hold my breath on that though.

 

[MadMopar]

I found and pulled the Voltage regulator and reseated it.

I get the following with a voltmeter across the battery terminals:

Off: 12.90
Running: 12.48
All Lights On and Running: 12.10

I have cleaned the terminals/posts on the battery cable connectors and sprayed them with terminal protectant. I also noticed that the negative screw (wing nut) connection on the battery looks like it had melted/corroded away a little and the cables weren't all that tight so needless to say I tightened everything during the cleaning process.

Does anyone know if the above sound normal? At least everything is above 12 volts. I don't know what the voltages were before I did the battery clean up.

I'm also considering putting a battery cut out switch on just in case.

Anyone with any ideas on this?

Thanks

 

[mrmikey]

It's definitely not charging. With no draw you should have 14VDC +, it's dropping because you have no input either because the alt is bad, regulator is bad or even both or a bad connection. On a fully charged battery with the surface charge drained off you should have 13.8VDC±.
Without the 'exchange with known good part' (I hate that phrase) I don't know of any way to test it.
Battery master switch in my books is a given, put one on mine within a month of owning it. Especially when I read the story on another forum of one burning up....Mike

 

[MadMopar]

Hi Mike.

Thanks for the input. I figured that the voltage was low because I do do cars and this is low. I'm learning 'the hard way" about tractors. Hopefully, once I get through this full maintenance cycle that I'm trying to do I'll have a decent handle on it. This is also my first diesel.

I'm going to pull the battery and the alternator tomorrow and take them into a auto place and have them tested.

If the alternator is bad, I'll go ahead and get an upgraded one and a voltage regulator from Affordable Tractor in TX. It seems that they are just about the only ones that do Jinma parts and I've heard that they are very helpful (I talked to Thomas ther yesterday and he gave me the idea for testing the voltage on the alternator.

I'm pretty sure that the alternator is the weak spot and I never replace an alternator without replacing the regulator.

Again, thanks for your help/info.

 

[erj]

Am I correct in assuming that you have checked the belt for tightness?

 

[MadMopar]

Yeah, I did and it was a little sloppier thank I liked and so I tightened it.

Unfortunately, I think the bole is stripped in the alternator so I'm probably going to have to drill it and either retap it or bolt and double nut it.

 

[mrmikey]

It seems that they are just about the only ones that do Jinma parts and I've heard that they are very helpful

That is the truth, a very good bunch to deal with.
Maybe consider a GM alternator for an upgrade? I was going to replace mine with one when it bites the dust but it's still going.....Mike

 

[MadMopar]

I have heard that some people do that.

Some have stated that they don't recommend it because the GM alternators are open and the OEM are closed units. It gets really dusty and dirty here.

The other thing is that I have seen a little info and some not very clear photos on how to do it, but nothing that's very clear. Do you have any clear instructions on how to do this and bypass the voltage regulator?

Also, are either on of the GM alternators closed?

 

[mrmikey]

Do you have any clear instructions on how to do this and bypass the voltage regulator?

'Fraid not, I was going to go all out and do it but the thought petered out and I've never looked anymore.

Also, are either on of the GM alternators closed?

Not sure....Mike

 

[quicksandfarmer]

On my Jinma 354 the voltage regulator plugs into the fusebox and periodically rattles loose. I press it back in, the idiot light goes out. Someday I'll put a cable tie on it.

 

[MadMopar]

On my Jinma 354 the voltage regulator plugs into the fusebox and periodically rattles loose. I press it back in, the idiot light goes out. Someday I'll put a cable tie on it.

I have removed and reseated the voltage regulator, but it didn't make any difference. Thanks for the tip though.

 

[MadMopar]

Well, I took the battery and the alternator into town to get them tested and the battery tested OK on a voltage test.

Unfortunately, AutoZone requires a code input for connecting alternators to test, and of course they don't list any Jinmas. They did list a bunch of tractors, just not any Jinmas.

I wondering if any of the parts stores in the smaller towns have one of the older testers that doesn't require all the BS to test. I'll call around tomorrow.

I'm pretty sure at this point that it is the alternator.

Now comes the decision to go with OEM or convert. Does anyone have detailed info on how to convert to a Delco 12si? I have found them on ebay.

Thanks

 

[MadMopar]

I can't seem to find any place that can check the alternator because there are no cross-over codes fro their test equipment.

I just ordered a voltage regulator from Affordable and I'll put that in and see if the voltage climbs up for charging.

If that doesn't fix it, then I guess the alternator is next. If I replace an alternator, I would replace the voltage regulator anyway.

 

[doxford jim]

You have done the most sensible thing IMHO.
The voltage regulator will tend to walk it's way out of the seating due to vibration. It would be well worth your while to use a ziptie to hold the regulator in place and stop it from vibrating out. I also used some neverseize (is conductive) on the regulator connectors to fill gaps from the slightly undersized connectors/prongs. Compare the new one to the old one and you will probably see a difference in tab thickness.

 

[MadMopar]

The voltage regulator will tend to walk it's way out of the seating due to vibration. It would be well worth your while to use a ziptie to hold the regulator in place and stop it from vibrating out. I also used some neverseize (is conductive) on the regulator connectors to fill gaps from the slightly undersized connectors/prongs. Compare the new one to the old one and you will probably see a difference in tab thickness.

Thanks for the info. I did reseat the regulator and that didn't make any difference. Since I can't return the new one, I'll do like you suggested and use some of the compound and then zip tie it into place.

 

[Affordable]

Sorry ,I'm dribbling in here a little late, I have been dealing with some kidney stones and a bladder tumor,if you have a OHm meter you can check to see if the alternator is putting out, but if the voltage regulator does not tell it to kick in it won't. We replace a lot more voltage regulator than alternators so you may get lucky .

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Paarts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[MadMopar]

Hi Tommy.

Sorry to hear about your stones but even more about the bladder tumor. I hope they can fix all that. With today's medical wonders, we'll all be part android before we hit 70 (knees, hips, etc).

I did check at the battery with a volt meter and I got the following:

12.9 with everything off.
12.48 running.
12.1 running and all lights (which I almost never use).

I'm hoping that it's the regulator. I did already order one from Thomas, so I'll see when it gets here.

If not, I'll be ordering a 4-wire 500 Watt. I do a lot of on and off and short runs, so I definitely want the 500.

I do want to figure out how to put an ammeter or volt meter on it so that I can check the charging status easier.

I will also be putting on a battery kill switch between the battery and the starter.

Thanks for your input.

 

[TomJones3]

This is a little late, but if you energize the field connection on the alternator and it starts putting out power (ampmeter jumps to "charge" and tractor possibly slows down due to the load), then it's the regulator. Check the wiring from the ignition switch. Sometimes it is the wire, sometimes the switch is damaged, and no power goes to the regulator. If no power goes to regulator then the alternator can't alternate!