Jinma 284LE won't turn over

[SPIKER]

it appears like greg said incorrect.

the KEY SWITCH that used to attach to the JINMA starter SOL. COIL (small post) is removed and goes to the S on the NEW FORD relay.,
run a 10 ga wire from the large battery post on the STARTER up to the large post on the left side of the FORD RELAY, then from the other large post (right side) on the FORD RELAY go back down th where the KEY SWITCHED WIRE USED TO BE on the STARTER SOLENOID (small post.)

this takes full battery voltage and applies it to the jinma starter solenoid to make it pull in better. you should have a good 12+ volts on the starter when cranking this way unless there is a bad wire some place between the battery terminal and the block/ground terminal. what happens is when the ford relay pulls in it puts the full 12 volts onto the jinma starter sol. the starter sol pulls in and energizes the starter motor and kicks in the gear. you may need to attach a ground wire from the ford relay case back down to the block. the I post on the ford relay is not used in you're application. it was/is used to put 12 volts out to ignition, you could use this post to go to the glow plugs but that will pull voltage away from you starter motor.

IF you still get low voltage when cranking then you have 2 areas to address.

1. battery cables, one or both may be weak/too light of a gage to start the engine properly. (I changed mine day one when I put mine together as the china ones were too low quality for high starting loads) I replaced BOTH cables with 1 gauge welding cables. (I have access to them otherwise go to farm store for some battery replacement cables 4 gauge is min size.)

2. battery not fully charged (should have ~12.5 volts when setting 13.5 volts when running)
it could have a bad cell. More than likely the cables are what may have internal corrosion and or are undersized.
mark

 

[markh1]

Greg & Spiker,

Yes I do have it wired wrong. Thanks for the info. I will try it tonight and see if it works.

Today when I tried starting it after checking some things if it was spinning I stopped immediately but after I turned the switch off if there was a loud click the next try it would turn over.

Mark H

 

[markh1]

I have it wired correctly now and getting 11 volts when key is on instead of 12. I think I may have gotten a bad solenoid.

What happens now is when trying to start the starter is spinning. When it stops spinning and there is a loud click it will engage the next time. When it does engage it only engages for 2 or 3 seconds then disengages and is just spinning.

Mark H

 

[greg_g]

If you're getting voltage with the keyswitch in the ON position, it's still wired wrong. There should be no voltage on the switch>interlock>solenoid circuit until the key is held in the spring return START position and the clutch pedal is depressed. Checking starting voltage is much easier with a helper. You operate the multimeter down by the starter, the helper holds in the clutch pedal and cranks the starter. Voltage on that circuit should only be present while the starter is cranking.

But your case - since you've installed a starter relay - you don't check voltage at the end of the OE wire any more. Since the voltage will still be low there, you want to measure the "new" voltage provided by the relay. So the positive meter probe goes on the new wire that connects the new relay and the old solenoid. The negative probe still obviously goes to ground, I suggest one of the bolts that holds the starter to the bellhousing.

//greg//

 

[markh1]

Sorry by on I meant in the starting position. It is wired correctly according to Spiker's instructions and I am on the solenoid not the relay.

Mark H

 

[greg_g]

Sorry by on I meant in the starting position. It is wired correctly according to Spiker's instructions and I am on the solenoid not the relay.

Mark H

The voltage you're measuring then is coming straight off the battery. If it's low, then the problem could be either the solenoid OR the battery OR the battery cable.
1. take both battery cables off the battery. Measure voltage between + and - posts. A good topped up battery - not connected to anything - should read between 12.6 and 13.2 volts. If it's not, get the battery load tested.
2. If it's good, reconnect the negative cable. Measure voltage between + and - posts again. If the voltage is now lower than #1, it's the negative cable or cable lug or ground attachment point. Most tractors come from the factory with the negative cable bolted on over several thick coats of paint. But I think you know that. But perhaps you don't know that corrosion between cable strands and a cable lug can do the same thing.
3. If that's good, reconnect the positive cable. Measure voltage between the + and - posts again. If the voltage is now lower than #2, it's the positive cable or cable lug.
4. If that's good, it points to excessive loss through the solenoid.

//greg//

 

[markh1]

Greg,

Thanks for the info. I will check tonight after work. For the ground I not only cleaned where it's attached to the frame I removed the filter bracket and made that bare metal also.
When I had the starter rebuilt I didn't bring the solenoid in with it because it was new. That may have been a mistake. Is the loud clicking the pin in the solenoid hanging up?

Mark H

 

[greg_g]

When I had the starter rebuilt I didn't bring the solenoid in with it because it was new. That may have been a mistake. Is the loud clicking the pin in the solenoid hanging up?

Oh, that changes things. If the rebuild shop didn't attach the new solenoid, you may have installed it incorrectly yourself. There's an eccentric that needs to be tweaked just right, so that everything slips into place.

One click is the sound the solenoid armature makes when it tries to throw the pinion. A string of repeated clicks means something's hung up (or not getting enough amperage). But if that's all you're hearing, then I'd say the solenoid and starter motor are not yet operating as a team.

Maybe you'd be better off if you took everything back to the rebuild shop and let the tech (re)assemble it to his satisfaction.

//greg//

 

[markh1]

I am going to bring it back to the shop and have it checked out.

Mark H

 

[SPIKER]

Hi Mark H:
Sorry to hear it is still acting up, I have a few more areas to check for you.
1. pull off both battery post lugs and clean the posts and internal lugs, re attach use some dielectric grease or battery terminal anti-corrosion compound on them.
2. cap off the "I" post on the ford relay top prevent it from shorting out when starting if it should slide.
3. the CLICK is that just the FORD relay click or is it the Jinma Solenoid? IF you can tell, I work alone a lot on mine and it is hard to gauge where noise comes from.
4. if problem persists maybe add an extra ground strap at the starter mount bolt to frame to assist in a good ground path for starter current. medium gauge wire, 4~6 gauge will be good.
5. I mentioned above regarding using th "I" post to add power to the glow plugs, this will work but you will have to watch time of starting and holding on the H spot of the KEY so you do not overheat the glow plugs.

Please let us know what the shop finds.

Mark M