Dougster, before you wander out for parts, keep in mind [without getting into any argument or heated discussion], that while most pillow blocks have zerk fitting or places for them, the bearings installed in them may or may not be greasable. [[ end of message ]]
Now on a lighter side, if you want to do something that will maybe extend the life of your feed roller driveshaft....some people have tapped and installed set screws on the female ends of the driveshaft to keep them seated onto the male ends of the feed roller and cheepo disengagement divise. I used 1/4-20 by 1/2" Unbrako's [good ones], which are a hair on the long side. The ends tap fairly easily. I also tapped the driveshaft itself [there is a hole already there] and put a zerk into that, too. I use US zerks, and I think they are a tappered 1/16" pipe thread, but I have always used a 1/4-28 drill and tap. The threads arn't right, but the zerk screws in tight and 'works for me'. [don't have the right tap] That said, the shaft is hardened differently than the drive ends, and is extremly hard to tap, but I did it.
If you look at your PTO driveshaft that came with the unit [or your trucks driveshaft], you will notice that the universals line up with each other on each end, or phased. I don't know if this little wobble type of driveshaft has to be phased, but take a real good look at it before you take it out. Once out, it's fairly easy to dissassemble it and warsh it out [get rid of the cheepo grease]. There are small wire snap rings in each end that keep the knuckles into the flex joint, and can be taken out with a small screwdriver, awl, or whatever. When you clean the shaft, there is a hole completly thru the center, and you have to clean all the old stuff out of there.
After assy., I pumped it full of good WallyWorld Mobile 1 synthetic lube. I also [from mod post info] installed a 42" equipment belt [came with cheepo 40"] and moved my gearbox back about 1" to help keep the angle down on the driveshaft a little. You have to cut off the stock adjusters, but it fairly easy to tighten the belt by putting something [ I used a tapered drillpress tool ] in the slots. I may help me get a few extra days out of it before I can fab up a real driveshaft with universals [ more mod post info ].
Here is a picture of the driveshaft with zerk/set screws/& plastered with Mobile 1. And also a picture of my genuine copy of a copy of a Jinma 7 1/4" skid [ I needed 7 1/2" to line up my PTO and keep unit from tipping when not attached to my tractor ].
Better educate me on this and I'll change them out right away! 
