John Deere 1600 wide area mower help!

[shmc83]

I have a 2006 JD 1600 WAM, was mowing and blades quit after lifting the decks. Saw this post and bighorn was exactly right. The JD part # is TCA13854 and it is an end link off of the hydro pump. It is under the left side of the seat but you have to remove the black cover plate that is bolted to the back of the the seat pan / hydraulic reservoir. It has 5 bolts total. The internal threads on the link end (which is actually just a hyme joint) wore out which let the PTO rod fall off. The result is no mower deck functions and mimics bad electrical, but it is actually a pressure issue. $27 part and an hour of my own time beats the dealer any day! THANKS FOR THE ORIGINAL POST!!

 

[GDHall]

My left deck will not raise when the machine has been mowing for a half hour or more. It tries but simply will not raise. Today it decided not to mow on that side. Could this be an electric over hydraulic valve problem? It works fine when cold.

 

[delsol]

We are still having the issue of not getting full flow/pressure to all 3 decks at once. If you pick up one of the side decks the center and other side will cut -- and it doesn't matter which side you pick up...

Any ideas?

 

[DaveG123]

Just went through a situation where none of the decks were delivering full power, JD Mechanic told me to change the O-rings on the cartridge valve on the hydraulic control block under the left side of the machine's belly. The O-rings harden up and essentially allow the fluid to bypass the motors.

For the price of a couple of O-Ring sets, it's worth a try on your situation too! FYI part # TCA18245 1 set of 5 O-rings for each valve (you'll need 2)

 

[GDHall]

I got the lifting problem solved by replacing the o rings. Now I have an issue where the left deck will not remain in the up position. Sometimes it stays up but often I must hold the switch in the raise position or lock it up with the manual latch near the cylinder. Any suggestions as to why it will not stay up? The other decks stay up as expected.
thanks,

 

[aczlan]

Could be a bad cylinder, or a bad solenoid. Lock the deck up, then pull the "lower" hose and hold the switch in "raise" position for 20-30 seconds. If you get fluid out of the "raise" port on the cylinder, the rod seal is bad. If not, the solenoid valve is probably bad.

Aaron Z

 

[dbleacpa]

I have a John Deere 1600 and while mowing a couple weeks ago got a branch caught in my right wing deck. It seized up the blade and now the right deck won't run strong. It will spin but slows when there is any resistance. Ideas?

 

[drlazor]

Hey there having a similar problem with decks. Pressure tested pump turns out deck motor is turning slow. The dealer couldn't figure out what is wrong. Rebuilt motor and still the same problem. Tested spindle speed it was low with 3 decks running but right with 2 running. Adjusted spindle speed decks running better, but not as well as our newer unit. If have any other ideas looking to try something. Wish the dealer had something to offer

Were did you get your deck pump rebuilt? Could you send me the address and shipping information. My frount deck was leaking hhydro fluid and I took the pump apart and found one of the metal part that holds the gears together has seared. I need to get it rebuilt and soon as my grass is growing fast.

Also How do you test the deck spindle speed and how do you make it go faster or slower?

THANKS

 

[Jim Blackwood]

I just bought a 2005 1600T. The reverse pedal sticks, I think it is a linkage problem. I managed to smear some grease on the bearings that run on the linkage cam but it hangs when you first press on the reverse pedal and then lets go all at once, making the machine jerk violently backwards. Any advice on how to get in there and fix that is much appreciated as it's hard to even see what is under there. I noticed the long linkage rod drags a bit on the large hydraulic line but I wasn't able to push the hose down out of the way.

Jim

 

[hankster 1965]

I currently maintion two high serial number 1600's and one old one, which is maintained for backup. this problem you have is common, on top of the design of the pedal linkage causing some of the issue, it can be brought to a minimum. mainanence on these can be frustrating, but with patience, it will be worth it. sounds like previous owner didn't address issue, just put up with it. the linkage is designed poorly wich requires more pressure applied to go backwards. but there are things to help minimize this. first when moving mower, never do it at idle! a brand new machine will buck like a bronco at idle(somewhat) must be at least half throttle but recommend full throttle. this will allow you to apply less pressure on rev pedal, but push slowly and let linkage do its part. when looking at the linkage under the fnr pedals, youll see grease zerks that were pbrobably never greased. grease then while working the pedals back and forth. next open engine cover and look on right side of tranny where linkage goes to having someone move pedals(engine off!) watching movements and youll notice some small bearing moving on a cam like arm. those bearings work very hard for their size and do fail from time to time. to chek them, you must remove the spring applying tension to bearings. you can access the spring br tilting up the seat and remove the floor plate behind it four bots two on top. if one of the bearings is bad, you can change the order of them on the same bolt, so a fresh bearing is touching cam arm. the reverse pedal will always be touchy but maintanence will keep it smooth. good luck