john Deere 2320 noisy snowblower?

[Dale1995]

chipsndust, thank you for your detailed explanation, I think I see the problem now. Apparently there has been a redesign for the 2320, or at least for my newer 2320 as what you are seeing and what I have are not at all the same. My 47" Snowblower Operator's Manual OMLVU18040 J5 differs greatly from the text you outlined below. First, my mid to front driveshaft is not a telescopic type, and in addition does not have a coupler on each end (Front PTO Kit Manual LVU18039 J5.) When installing the driveshaft, the fixed length shaft must be slid too far forward through the front bearings, lined up with the rear splines, and then pulled rearwards to engage the single locking collar. There are two yokes, but they are not adjustable in orientation. It sounds like the problem is people are referring to a thread with an older design that is not applicable to newer 2320 blower installs.

I do have a single collar on the blower, and it is of a telescopic type (although not reversible) with two yokes, so the only thing I could apply from your explanation would be aligning the PTO driveshaft yoke closest to the front PTO with the yoke on the blower driveshaft closest to the front PTO.

That might have been difficult to explain without pictures as well, so this evening I'll post some shots to clarify.

I just checked my snowblower operating manual and I have the same numbers also omlvu18040 j5, I searched long and hard and I could not see what he was talking about. All I can see is that I can index my universal joints so they are the same. I blew snow with it for the first time yesterday, and it wasn't quite so noisy with snow.....but it seems to blow better than my older 47" snowblower I had on my X485 back in 2003.

 

[chipsndust]

[/quote]I do have a single collar on the blower, and it is of a telescopic type (although not reversible) with two yokes, so the only thing I could apply from your explanation would be aligning the PTO driveshaft yoke closest to the front PTO with the yoke on the blower driveshaft closest to the front PTO.

That might have been difficult to explain without pictures as well, so this evening I'll post some shots to clarify.[/quote]

We might be saying the same thing? The two shafts which couple to the front hitch assembly (with the short shaft built into it) need to be able to flex in the same plane as they spin.
I took some pictures of mine. The first one is the snowthrower driveshaft coupled to the front hitch assembly. The second one is the mid-to-front PTO driveshaft coupled to the the front hitch assembly. Hopefully you can see that the two universals are "in phase". The outer yoke on each shaft is in the horozontal plane.

 

[2Malamutes]

We might be saying the same thing? The two shafts which couple to the front hitch assembly (with the short shaft built into it) need to be able to flex in the same plane as they spin.
I took some pictures of mine. The first one is the snowthrower driveshaft coupled to the front hitch assembly. The second one is the mid-to-front PTO driveshaft coupled to the the front hitch assembly. Hopefully you can see that the two universals are "in phase". The outer yoke on each shaft is in the horozontal plane.

50% of what we were saying is the same. 2320 owners do not have a short shaft built into the front hitch assembly, and thus no locking collar on the front hitch end of the shaft from the mid PTO. The shaft passing through the front hitch is one end of the solid, non-telescoping shaft originating at the mid PTO as seen in my photos.

As I said, the only thing from your original post that is applicable to 2320 owners is syncing the universal joints.

 

[chipsndust]

I see the difference. Pictures really help!

 

[JSR LLS]

Great explanations guys, 2malamutes, you need to get that machine dirty!

 

[2Malamutes]

Great explanations guys, 2malamutes, you need to get that machine dirty!

That is one thing I don't mind about using the tractor all winter in the snow, it makes a nice wash cycle, although the fact that I towel dry it after every use (and maybe my OCD) might have something to do with it as well.

 

[Wildbill34]

One thing I found out is that if the front PTO shaft is not the right size (length) it will vibrate the heck out of the blower. Let me explain, if the front pto shaft is too short the noise is really prevelant when you use the float on the blower as you are using it (real quite when lifted in the air, but real noisy all the way down). If you raise it just a hair then the significant noise/vibtation goes away. Meaning you are extending the pto shaft past its usable length which either causes it to bind a little or get to sloppy, in either case it causes the vibration/noise. Conversely, for those which are too long then the noise really come about as you raise them up and the shaft compresses too hard. Which in turn create additional stress on the shaft and hence the vibration. The vibration can be bad enough to cause you to lose shear bolts on the impeller on a regular basis. Take it from a feller who learned the hard way and now is ordering the proper front PTO shaft.

 

[gbourk]

I have a 2004 2210 that with the yokes aligned and in the right order still vibrates as if it is coming apart. U joints good. Can see no problem based on install. At a loss
G

 

[Labrat]

G
It is inherent for the excessive vibration on the 2210 because of the excessive U joint angle on the mid shaft below the front axle. If you have someone sit on the machine and run the blower at pto speed you can see the deflection on the mid pto shaft. The vibration gets better under load but with no load or light load the vibration is annoying. I replaced the U joint with a CV joint and supported the shaft with a pillow block bearing and it totally eliminated the vibration.

 

[Dale1995]

G
It is inherent for the excessive vibration on the 2210 because of the excessive U joint angle on the mid shaft below the front axle. If you have someone sit on the machine and run the blower at pto speed you can see the deflection on the mid pto shaft. The vibration gets better under load but with no load or light load the vibration is annoying. I replaced the U joint with a CV joint and supported the shaft with a pillow block bearing and it totally eliminated the vibration.

I have a 2320 with the same 47" snowblower and also find the excessive vibration annoying to say the least. I love your retrofit with the cv joint and pillow block bearing. I hate to reinvent the wheel. What did you use for the cv joint and pillow block bearing, were you able to reuse your same drive shaft? Any pictures and/or part #s would be very helpful! Please elaborate how you changed all of this over.....thanks