john deere 260 backhoe ripper

[swick1]

I've just completed the first pass design for a backhoe ripper I'm getting ready to build. I would like opinions on it before I go into production. The goal is to build a better ripper than the brotek that everyone seems to be using for the JD 260 backhoe. I want to be able to cut through roots up to 8" in diameter. To do this I have added large teeth on the back side, a tool steel tooth on the bottom, and a 60 degree knife edge on the front. The pin dimensions may have to be altered some. The mounting ears are 1/2" mild steel and the ripper shank is 1" thick. I did not draw the pin bushings yet because I haven't taken any measurements from my backhoe. It's currently at a job site.

I put a cutout in the middle to give myself something to grab onto that wouldn't be sharp while installing or moving it I think it will weigh about 100 lbs when finished.

 

[acme97]

I like the design so far. I'm looking for something to put on my L35. Some of the one's I looked at had a plate on the backside to prevent sinking in the dirt when you curled and to act as a scoop when you needed to move some dirt. You might want to do that. Will the tooth on front be bolt on or welded?

 

[swick1]

I'm thinking about using hardox 400 instead of tool steel because I have a local shop that can weld it. Tool steel seems to take more care than the hardox stuff, but I don't know how much it will cost. Another idea is to get a scrap cutting edge from one of the heavy equipment repair shops and cut it to fit, then weld it. I definitely want it welded on.

 

[wedge40]

From what I've found you will want some sort plate along the back side of the tooth to support the ripper when prying. Unless the 260 and a huge backhoe.
Check out this design.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/211702-mie-ripper-my-bh92.html
Wedge

 

[swick1]

I added a pin on scoop for the rear. It detaches just like bucket pins. I also stiffened up the mounting pins and moved them forward to allow the tractor to grasp larger objects with the thumb and also to keep the linkage / cylinder end out of the dirt.

 

[wedge40]

Dont know when you plan on starting to cut metal, but let a few more besides me comment.
The only other thing I'd change/add is the horizontal plate that the gussets are welded to.. I'd make that and inch or two wider then needed, then use this as a lip to rest the ripper on for a support frame for storage and mounting. Having this thing sitting stable with hooking up to the backhoe will save hours in the confessional. dont ask how I know.

Wedge

 

[swick1]

I'm also going to build a pin grabber so i can switch buckets faster. This should make the stand unnecessary. I'm cutting material on the 28th of September with a waterjet.

 

[swick1]

I made some more progress tonight refining the design. The hardest part was drawing the backhoe boom and dipper! I added a second optional pin hole for maximum ripping force and less articulation. I also angled the ripper a little to make it fit better without hitting anything. The big box on the dipper stick is a stand in for my north star weld on thumb. The cutouts on the ground represent 1 foot each, so the reach is about 8 feet. The boom is mounted at the same height as my backhoe sits while on its tires.

 

[Green4310TLB]

What software are you using to do your design work in? Looks good. Let us know how it goes.

 

[swick1]

I'm using alibre design professional. It's not as fancy as solidworks or inventor, but it's still pretty good, especially for the money! Alibre - Affordable 3D CAD Software, CAM, Rendering, and Document Management Software

I'm cutting at the shop now.

 

[swick1]

I got all but one part cut out on the waterjet. I now have to put a knife edge on the front, clean off the mill scale, and chamfer the edges of most of the parts for welding. Current expenses are $120 for the waterjet service, $20 of scrap metal, $18 in welding rod, and $15 for grinding discs.

 

[IslandTractor]

Nice design. I like the ripple on the back side. I could have used that on mine. I just ended up welding a piece of drilling pipe to cut from the backside but your design is a whole lot better looking.

I like the removable scoop too. Nice touch. I haven't had any time when I wished my scoop was removable but that is because I am digging roots. If I was trenching for an electric line or water pipe I'd rather have your version.

 

[swick1]

More progress is being made with lots of grinding but now my welder is acting up. I can't get it to maintain an arc. I think it's just some loose connections. The welder is at least 25 years old! I am going to investigate further, but if I can't clean it up, I can score a much newer miller thunderbolt for $120 on craigslist.

 

[swick1]

I bought a new lincoln tombstone from lowes after breaking a borrowed welder from my brother in law. The selector switch on his tombstone stopped working. Its really loose now and I get no arc, so I think something came loose. I have tack welded it together and I now realize what a terrible welder I am. I can run a 6013 rod but I cant get a 7018 to start reliably

 

[swick1]

Here are some pictures. I had to clean up the pin holes with a die grinder because the waterjet cut them at a taper. I used a 7/8 in tool inside the 1 in hole. I need to modify my weld bead pattern. I'd never done a t-joint before and it looks pretty bad. I think I need to make little circles instead. Any suggestions on amperage for 1/2 in material using 7018 rods with AC?

 

[IslandTractor]

I need to modify my weld bead pattern. I'd never done a t-joint before and it looks pretty bad. I think I need to make little circles instead. Any suggestions on amperage for 1/2 in material using 7018 rods with AC?

I don't have any suggestions as I don't use stick (yet) but would point out that those are not really even welds. It's one thing to have ugly welds, I can assure you I am a master at that, but what you show in the photo looks more like a few tack welds at best. That will certainly not hold. If I had to guess I would say you did not have nearly enough heat/power to get penetration.

I'd suggest you post the photos and ask for advice on the welding subforum.

(Edit: I just checked the Lincoln AC225 manual. The MAX rating they give is full 225amp power for 3/16 inch electrode or 135 amps with 1/8 inch electrode with Fleetweld 37 (=Lincoln7018-AC) Sounds to me like you might need a more powerful welder or you'll need to bevel the pieces to be welded. Do you have a 50amp 220v circuit or are you using a 30amp dryer outlet? That could also affect your power. Why not take the parts to a local welding shop where they can easily put it together for you. It looks like about half an hours work for someone with appropriate sized equipment.)

 

[NormL]

Here are some pictures. I had to clean up the pin holes with a die grinder because the waterjet cut them at a taper. I used a 7/8 in tool inside the 1 in hole. I need to modify my weld bead pattern. I'd never done a t-joint before and it looks pretty bad. I think I need to make little circles instead. Any suggestions on amperage for 1/2 in material using 7018 rods with AC?

Like IslandTractor, I don't use stick to weld but It looks like you are going too low with the amperage. How much amperage were you using on those pic's?

 

[swick1]

150 amps setting on the welder

I agree i need to go higher. I tacked it, then started to connect the tacks together, realized something wasn't right and decided to post on the internet before continuing.

 

[NormL]

150 amps setting on the welder

I agree i need to go higher. I tacked it, then started to connect the tacks together, realized something wasn't right and decided to post on the internet before continuing.

You probably need to go with more amps. One other thing to note is your grounding clamp and cable. Especially at the higher amperages the contacts need to be clean and solid. I had my wire feed welder blow a circuit board for lack of good ground clamp at full amps.:ashamed: I realize the stick welder won't have a circuit board like that but still important.

 

[IslandTractor]

150 amps setting on the welder

I agree i need to go higher. I tacked it, then started to connect the tacks together, realized something wasn't right and decided to post on the internet before continuing.

What size welding rod? 155 should be more than enough for 1/8" per the Lincoln manual. However, I am unconvinced that the AC-225 welder is up to welding 1/2 steel unless in expert hands. That is really asking a lot of a transformer welder.

The more I look at the photos the more obvious it seems that lack of heat/amps is the issue. Maybe preheating with propane or oxyfuel would help. Beveling the steel would help but would create a lot of work and you'd still need a fair amount of experience to get the appropriate root pass followed by finsih passes to build up a fillet weld.

Honestly, my best advice would be to swallow your pride and take the "kit" to a professional welding shop. They will have no trouble at all because they will have much more powerful welders.