John Deere 3720 quick attach question

[DP Property]

I just ordered the quick attachment for the 3 point hitch for the 3720. How does it work and do I need to change the pins on my implements to work with it? I can't tell from this picture I found but it looks like the pins are different to match the quick attach>? does the quick attach come with some pins to Put on your implements?

 

[beenthere]

Your attachments (implements) will need to match the iMatch to work. I found most of them to be a pretty easy fabrication or change to fit them up.
And there are pins (bushings really) to fit over the usual pins.

Do some searching on TBN and you will find a lot of reading that give you a better picture.

If like me, you won't regret having the iMatch for your 3720. Mine is seldom off and now with the hydraulic top link it a much more useful tool.

A pic of the bushings, and one of the fab job on the carry-all. Often the trick is to change an implement so the top hook of the iMatch engages the top pin at the same time the lower hooks engage the bushings. Then just lift, latch and go.

 

[catdozer]

These are just a few pics with it on a woods rd7200 RFM, all it needed for the top to float was some pieces of flat steel for it. For my boxblade and flexpoint hitch I needed to add some washers to extend the pins out, I'll add pics later of my other type of bushings which are a lot cheaper than the big ones

 

[DP Property]

Your attachments (implements) will need to match the iMatch to work. I found most of them to be a pretty easy fabrication or change to fit them up.
And there are pins (bushings really) to fit over the usual pins.

Do some searching on TBN and you will find a lot of reading that give you a better picture.

If like me, you won't regret having the iMatch for your 3720. Mine is seldom off and now with the hydraulic top link it a much more useful tool.

A pic of the bushings, and one of the fab job on the carry-all. Often the trick is to change an implement so the top hook of the iMatch engages the top pin at the same time the lower hooks engage the bushings. Then just lift, latch and go.

I am having a problem just picked this thing up this morning and they gave me two bushings with it. The problem is the pins on the JD ballast box are not quite long enough. I can't clamp her down and I had to file the pins down on a grinder just to get them in the holes. Not sure if your bushing would work they look better and longer but I think I would have an issue with the pins in the way of the clamp down. I think these bushings will work fine on the rotary cutter but this is a pain in the ***. 400 dollars for this thing ..hope I don't regret it. The only thing I can think of is weld these bushings on the ballast box so they can be far enough out and they will cover the pin holes? What do you think guys is this thing more trouble then it is worth or am I just frustrated rite now? lol

 

[Johndeere3720]

I am having a problem just picked this thing up this morning and they gave me two bushings with it. The problem is the pins on the JD ballast box are not quite long enough. I can't clamp her down and I had to file the pins down on a grinder just to get them in the holes. Not sure if your bushing would work they look better and longer but I think I would have an issue with the pins in the way of the clamp down. I think these bushings will work fine on the rotary cutter but this is a pain in the ***. 400 dollars for this thing ..hope I don't regret it. The only thing I can think of is weld these bushings on the ballast box so they can be far enough out and they will cover the pin holes? What do you think guys is this thing more trouble then it is worth or am I just frustrated rite now? lol

For your ballast box I would get the longer bushings which will make it fit perfectly. As for the price of the quick hitch, I hate to point it out but i got mine new for $225 and a used one for $150.

 

[jenkinsph]

I am having a problem just picked this thing up this morning and they gave me two bushings with it. The problem is the pins on the JD ballast box are not quite long enough. I can't clamp her down and I had to file the pins down on a grinder just to get them in the holes. Not sure if your bushing would work they look better and longer but I think I would have an issue with the pins in the way of the clamp down. I think these bushings will work fine on the rotary cutter but this is a pain in the ***. 400 dollars for this thing ..hope I don't regret it. The only thing I can think of is weld these bushings on the ballast box so they can be far enough out and they will cover the pin holes? What do you think guys is this thing more trouble then it is worth or am I just frustrated rite now? lol

You need the bushings that Beenthere posted a picture of for the ballast box. The bushings you have now are ideal for implements with a clevis hitch. You will need bushings and top pin/bushings for each implement you have. Once you get the implements set up correctly you will be able to hitch up without leaving the seat except for hooking up the pto shaft and raising the parking stands. don't give up yet!:thumbsup: This is a big improvement over the manual hookup.

 

[kennyd]

Yup, you need the other bushings. JD used to give you a set but they seem not to anymore.

Here are the cheapest ones available: QUICK HITCH ADAPTER KIT CAT 1-3

 

[hoddykubody]

Stop at TSC Essex they probably have them . Did you get your machine Comber or Leamington . I bought my 3520 from Ron . J

 

[DP Property]

Stop at TSC Essex they probably have them . Did you get your machine Comber or Leamington . I bought my 3520 from Ron . J

Ok I will check it out, I actually got my machine from Huron in Thamesford , Ontario, was a better price. The quick attach was $354.00 plus tax that is why I hate buying too much in this end of town always top dollar.

 

[DP Property]

For your ballast box I would get the longer bushings which will make it fit perfectly. As for the price of the quick hitch, I hate to point it out but i got mine new for $225 and a used one for $150.

354.00 canadian plus 13 percent sales tax we really take a pounding here in the windsor, Essex county area for prices. I had to go two hours out of town to get a decent deal on the tractor.

 

[beenthere]

The pins I showed in the pic above were from TSC.
Keep calm, as the iMatch is a tool you won't regret having. Wrestling that ballast box around without the iMatch is just no fun at all. With the iMatch, don't even have to get off the tractor.
You should get the right stepped-up "bushings", rather than just the filler ones.

Here is how they look on the ballast box.

 

[catdozer]

To me the Deere bushings work great for some implements, but the smaller TSC bushings work better with fine finishing tools since they don't give as much slopp side to side. But you will love the imatch hitch after the first time. Incredible of how much time you save

 

[DP Property]

Thanks again to all you guys this forum is priceless for getting help. I went to TSC they had none so I tried princess auto and they had 3 sets the problem was only one set had the roll pins the other two sets were missing the roll pins. I purchased the complete set and brought another set up to the checout. They gave me 30 % off the second set with no pins. I have the ballast box set of correctly now but the problem is I bought a multiset of roll pins but none were big enough for the second set. I will have to check another automotive store maybe and try and find some big enough roll pins for the second set. All in all I am much happier today I just want to be able to switch from the frontier rotary cutter and the ballast box. Once I find the rite roll pins for second set it will be mission accomplished.

 

[JD 4520]

I see a couple of you have an "open" ballast box. What material do you have in them and what does your box by itself weigh "loaded"?

 

[DP Property]

You need the bushings that Beenthere posted a picture of for the ballast box. The bushings you have now are ideal for implements with a clevis hitch. You will need bushings and top pin/bushings for each implement you have. Once you get the implements set up correctly you will be able to hitch up without leaving the seat except for hooking up the pto shaft and raising the parking stands. don't give up yet!:thumbsup: This is a big improvement over the manual hookup.

I made some progress today Jenkinsph thanks for the encouragement

 

[DP Property]

I see a couple of you have an "open" ballast box. What material do you have in them and what does your box by itself weigh "loaded"?

I put 8 maybe close to 9 bags of quick cement in mine and I am guessing it is about 500 lbs or a little more. I was told that if you fill it with cement over sand it adds an extra 100 lbs to your ballast.

 

[beenthere]

I see a couple of you have an "open" ballast box. What material do you have in them and what does your box by itself weigh "loaded"?

gbo
I just have mine filled with 2" washed gravel. Next time I have a concrete job, I will fill it within 3-4 inches from the top with concrete. I do not know how much it weighs, but know I'd like some more.

 

[RoyJackson]

The pins I showed in the pic above were from TSC.
Keep calm, as the iMatch is a tool you won't regret having. Wrestling that ballast box around without the iMatch is just no fun at all. With the iMatch, don't even have to get off the tractor.

Pick up one of these mover's dollys (Mover's Dolly) for the ballast box and it's easy to move around the garage.

 

[sunnyside360]

Pick up one of these mover's dollys (Mover's Dolly) for the ballast box and it's easy to move around the garage.

Ditto..... Roy took the words right out of my mouth, ie, using HF moving dolly as others have also suggested in the past. That's what I use and it works really well. My JD ballast box is around 550 lbs and is a snap to jockey around on the dolly.

 

[beenthere]

I have no need for a dolly (have several of them for other things) as the ballast is always on the tractor unless the rear forks, the rotary cutter, the rototiller, the carry-all, or the logging forks are needed.
My point was for the OP that it is just much more convenient using the iMatch to engage/disengage the heavy ballast box. That was to address his frustration over having made the choice to go with the iMatch.