John Deere 4230

/ John Deere 4230 #1  

Complete Turf Care

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Mar 31, 2013
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Location
South Louisiana
Tractor
2022 Kubota Grand L6060 (no loader), 2017 Kubota Grand L6060, 2011 Kubota L5740 HSTC-3, 1997 Kubota M4700
Picked up a 1976 John Deere 4230 today. I've been looking for something a little bigger than my 60 hp tractors but didn't want to spend much. This is sort of a project tractor for me. I want to get it in decent shape and plan to use it around my place a little. I have a 14' Amco disc that's too big for my Kubota's.

It has an oil leak on the power steering valve, but I'm not going to worry about that for now. None of the gauges work, except for an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. I have ordered a fuel sensor and gauge already. I'm considering one of those aftermarket 3-gauge clusters for water temp, volts, and oil pressure. I looked at a tachometer too, but probably won't get that for now.
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/ John Deere 4230
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I looked at a 4020 a few days ago but it was a bit rougher than this one. It did have a loader, but all the hoses needed to be replaced and the bucket had rusted through. He was asking $11,500 for the 4020.

I also looked at a Case 970 that has a front dozer blade. It was in similar shape as this tractor, and belongs to a neighbor who I know takes good care of his equipment, but it was a bit smaller than this tractor.

This 4230 is rated at 110 hp.
 
/ John Deere 4230 #4  
Educate me, please. What is tha rusty metal disc on the right side of the tractor? Thanks, Jon
 
/ John Deere 4230 #5  
The 30 series Deere's were quite popular. Unless you have something against OEM gauges I'd go that route. I know they might be more expensive but everything will look correct. Start with Salvage yards. Worthington tractor is a big one. They show two 4230's on their website. I am assuming they are being parted out. The 40 series may still have the same identical gauges. Actually possibly up through the 60 series since they were still using the same basic sheet metal and the sound guard cab. However they changed the actual gauge design some even though the dash stayed the same so I don't know what is compatible and what isn't. Whatever you do post photos of the rebuild.

Yes the 970 Case would be smaller. The 1070 is about the same. The 4230 should have a differential lock where the Case wouldn't have.
 
/ John Deere 4230 #6  
Interesting contraption on the side. Was it used in vegetable farming in its former life?
 
/ John Deere 4230
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Interesting contraption on the side. Was it used in vegetable farming in its former life?

Educate me, please. What is tha rusty metal disc on the right side of the tractor? Thanks, Jon
That contraption is known as a Kelly Side Plow. It is used for making ditches in flat ground, such as rice fields or wheat or soybean fields that are not on rows.

It was most likely used around here in rice fields.
 
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/ John Deere 4230 #8  
That contraption is known as a Kelly Side Plow. It is used for making ditches in flat ground, such as rice fields or wheat or soybean fields that are not on rows.

It was most likely used around here in rice fields.
Thanks, Jon
 
/ John Deere 4230
  • Thread Starter
#9  
My fuel sensor and gauge should be here tomorrow. I opened up the coverings over the gauge panel and it's a mess under there. I don't know if I'll be able to install the new fuel gauge and get it working.

I also ordered a new tachometer from eBay. John Deere has them for about $650, but the one on eBay was about $140. My wife ordered a tach cable from A & I for about $25 vs about $65 from JD.
 
/ John Deere 4230
  • Thread Starter
#10  
My fuel gauge came in today. You can see the old gauge cluster is in pretty bad shape. The box is made of plastic and is crumbling.


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I went ahead and installed the new fuel gauge and I think it's working. You can see in this picture the needle is all the way down with the key off.

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When I turn the key on, the needle moves up a little which makes me think the gauge is working. But, I estimate the tank is half full right now, so that tells me the sensor is not working properly. I have a new sensor, but that's a bigger job to change and I'll tackle that another day. I also noticed the temp gauge moved a little when I turned the key on. But it would not move when I ran the tractor for a few minutes. I think it may be working, but I'll need to change that sensor also. It's just money...

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/ John Deere 4230 #11  
The fuel sender unit is nothing more than a rheostat. The current increases as the tank fills and as this happens the needle moves towards the full mark. The circuit should go to ground through the tank mounts. Check the wiring between the gauge and the fuel tank. Check the tank mounting as well. The tank is metal and should complete the ground without any additional wires if the mounts are secure.
I don't know if any part of the fuel sender is accessible without removing the sheet metal from the front. I ran across this thread that has a lot of photos that might be useful to you. Sheet metal removed etc. Jobs like this are where a power probe can be really helpful

 
/ John Deere 4230
  • Thread Starter
#12  
The fuel sender unit is nothing more than a rheostat. The current increases as the tank fills and as this happens the needle moves towards the full mark. The circuit should go to ground through the tank mounts. Check the wiring between the gauge and the fuel tank. Check the tank mounting as well. The tank is metal and should complete the ground without any additional wires if the mounts are secure.
I don't know if any part of the fuel sender is accessible without removing the sheet metal from the front. I ran across this thread that has a lot of photos that might be useful to you. Sheet metal removed etc. Jobs like this are where a power probe can be really helpful

Because the gauge moves when I turn on the key, I'm thinking the wiring to the sender is good. But because it only goes to 1/4 when the tank is actually about half full, I'm thinking the float in the tank is not working.

I think I can get to the sender by removing the air filter housing.
 
/ John Deere 4230 #13  
Because the gauge moves when I turn on the key, I'm thinking the wiring to the sender is good. But because it only goes to 1/4 when the tank is actually about half full, I'm thinking the float in the tank is not working.

I think I can get to the sender by removing the air filter housing.
I'd overlooked that info and you are probably correct since you are getting some movement. Hopefully you will have access with the air filter housing removed. Look forward to seeing it put back into shape little by little.
 
/ John Deere 4230 #14  
You need the tech manual. Yes you can just replace and hope but the testing procedures are very easy that even my dumb... can understand them. I was pleasantly surprised.
 
/ John Deere 4230
  • Thread Starter
#16  
And online they are very reasonably priced. Search something like "John Deere 4230 repair manual pdf"
I ordered a shop manual this morning from Amazon. It was about $35 and should be here Sunday.
 
/ John Deere 4230 #17  
I ordered a shop manual this morning from Amazon. It was about $35 and should be here Sunday.
I know OEM are more expensive but generics lack ALOT of information

And online they are very reasonably priced. Search something like "John Deere 4230 repair manual pdf"
I'm willing to spend for the correct manual. For older equipment I will watch ebay and get old shop manuals in the binders. If I can't get them I will order direct from OEM. I have to have books. Can't stand PDF and will never purchase reprints.
 
 
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