John Deere 4300 complete rebuild

[monsternash]

Thanks for the info on the overflow attachment. I may just cut the old one off and see if I can observe what is going on.

Regardless, on your broken wire in a hole problem: I have removed things like this with a DIY broken tap remover similar to the one described here:

A Mini-EDM System

I have access to other types of power supplies but with a little patience this will remove the hardest metals from a broken hole. I prefer a tungsten TIG electrode of appropriate diameter but even copper wire will eventually get the job done. Practice adjusting the voltage and current and you should be able to remove the wire with little problem and no damage to the surrounding metal. Do mind the way things are hooked up and don't use a non-isolated source to avoid serious injury.

One other simple thing to try if it is not wedged in too tight is to degrease it good and put a spot of superglue on the end of a rod and stick it to it then pull it out after the glue sets.

Good Luck.

 

[rekees4300]

For those types of parts your best bet is a JD dealer. You may want to invest in a 4300 technical repair manual (which can be purchased online) for $60 so the part numbers can be determined.

 

[dfkrug]

I have access to other types of power supplies but with a little patience this will remove the hardest metals from a broken hole.

An EDM setup. Nice. A friend of mine has an EDM machine in his home
shop, but he has paying customers to justify it.

In my case, if I put a new retaining wire in the cylinder, it would be
easier to just drill another hole next to the original one. The hole can
be anywhere on the whole circumference of the gland.

Since I am not rebuilding the whole cylinder, I am probably just going to
reuse the old wire, pushing it in as I rotate the gland. New seals should
be here next week.

 

[kennyd]

Been fooling on line hunting parts getting no where. Maybe some one out there can help. John Deere 4300 has a SST sticker on hood. Guessing to be 10 to 12 years old, factory bush hog, front bucket. Needing axle gears, washers, cross pin and bolt also spider gears and washers. Thanks in advance sanfordw :anyone:

Welcome to TBN

I suggest you start a new thread, Your question will get lost in this very long one, plus you are "hijacking" it

In the mean time, register (for free) at www.jdparts.com to use the same basic parts system the dealer's use. There is a quick tutorial linked in my signature.

 

[mjncad]

For those types of parts your best bet is a JD dealer. You may want to invest in a 4300 technical repair manual (which can be purchased online) for $60 so the part numbers can be determined.

The price listed here is for the CD. The paper version will be double. Get the CD as you can print out just what you need, or print replacement pages for damaged greasy ones. I got the CD.

 

[dfkrug]

OK, I got my piston seal, and "energizer" O-ring. I heated it up in some
water and got it on the piston without difficulty.

Normally, I would buy a new retaining wire, too, but I think I will wait
until I can include it with another shipment from JD. They are about
$7 each. In the meantime, I heated the end of my damaged wire, and
bent a small dogleg in it. I used a 3/32 solid carbide bit in my dremel-type
tool and made the hole in the gland deep enough for my new hook. The
broken piece of wire in the hole is hard and not very cooperative. The
cylinder went together easily.

The loader now works great.

I have been using the tractor on a trailbalzing project along my creek, and
mostly it works well. This is what I call "burn-in". One of the steering tie
rod ends is a little too sloppy for my taste, however.

Since I have the "early MFWD axle", my tie rod ends are a little different,
and super-expensive. I was quoted $160 for the whole part in these
photos, which includes the tie rod end and another ball joint for the cylinder
rod. There is only one part # for the assembly in my parts book, but JD
Parts breaks it into 2 part #s. The tie rod is only $144.

It turns out he tie rod end is a TRW part with SAE threads (1/2-20)...I am
going to look for a substitution. The best bet may be a GM part.

 

[Ford tractor]

Have you tallied up total cost and hours invested in this project?

 

[jpinca]

Please post up if you find a cross. Mine are worn at the balljoint such that I can watch them twitch while driving across my property.

 

[dfkrug]

Please post up if you find a cross. Mine are worn at the balljoint such that I can watch them twitch while driving across my property.

Yours is the early MFWD, right JP? The one with a double-ended PS cyl?

The assembly has 2 ball joints, one at the end and one that attaches to the
cyl rod end. I am curious if the ball joint at the cyl rod end is loose on
your machine. This joint on both sides or my tractor will move in and out
about 3/16", but the ball is not visibly worn. I wonder if that is normal.

My left tie rod end ball is horribly worn, due to a ripped up boot. The right
side is OK.

FT, I am certainly not tallying my time on this project, and my guestimate of
parts cost is about $3000 and $500 for paid labor (not mine).

 

[jpinca]

Yeah, I have the early version.

It looks like the ball end is worn as I can see quite a bit of movement from the seat.

But if yours have that play without being worn, then maybe this is typical?