John Deere 5320 No or very little power to the starter?

[steve flint]

My 5320 solenoid won't engage or spin the starter, I started to start it the solenoid engaged I let off it and thought I smelled a small burning smell then went to engage the starter only a very weak clicking then nothing, the positive post on the starter tests almost 14 volts, when I turn the key I get an occasional weak click but not every time. I replaced the starter with a brand new one, still when I turn the key sometimes I get a clicking like the solenoid is engaging but still no power to the starter. The old starter under disassembly, one of the brushes had rolled out of the holder and locked it up. What component would cause No power? Fuse Link above the fuel filter one of the big black fuse blocks? Help???

 

[mrmikey]

Eric at SMA just did a couple of videos on similar problem:

 

[steve flint]

the positive post from the starter has 14 volts no ground problem something burnt like a component, thanks

 

[workinonit]

I had a 5310. Starter problems were common on those tractors.

 

[steve flint]

I had a 5310. Starter problems were common on those tractors.

First problem I have had, it's a wiring problem or a fuse or electrical component, the brush that bound the starter up shorted something out, I cannot find the fuse panel layout any place, thanks for the info tho lots of help.

 

[workinonit]

the brush that bound the starter up shorted something out,

So one of the armature brushed bound up? The owners manual should have the fuse and relay layout. My money is on the starter solenoid. As I said previously......

 

[steve flint]

So one of the armature brushed bound up? The owners manual should have the fuse and relay layout. My money is on the starter solenoid. As I said previously......

The starter is brand new, new solenoid.

 

[steve flint]

I called JD the service man said probably the maxi fuse above the fuel filter

 

[workinonit]

I think if the fuse link that he is referring to goes out you don't get power to anything. It sounds like you are saying that you get a clicking noise like either a relay is energizing or the solenoid is attempting to engage.

 

[steve flint]

I think if the fuse link that he is referring to goes out you don't get power to anything. It sounds like you are saying that you get a clicking noise like either a relay is energizing or the solenoid is attempting to engage.

Yes I checked the fuse link (wire) it carries voltage and correct would those relay's be in the fuse block?
My dealer printed me out the fuse layout, but not the big black square fuses on the sides or those relay's?

 

[Mike1955]

From where I sit, it has a good 14 volt wire at the starter while cranking. So the ground must not be present. Bad ground connection somewhere.

 

[workinonit]

What you are calling big square fuses are relays if it is similar to my 5310. I think my tractor had 3 of them.
Just because you have 14 volts at the starter doesn't mean much. The real test is what the voltage drops to when you try to start the tractor.
Put battery voltage straight to the starter and see if it cranks. If it does then you will know you have a bad relay. If it does the same thing then it's a bad battery or bad starter solenoid or a bad ground.

 

[steve flint]

I have put everything back as it was now time to replace one at a time with new! I think this could be the culprit right here

 

[steve flint]

What you are calling big square fuses are relays if it is similar to my 5310. I think my tractor had 3 of them.
Just because you have 14 volts at the starter doesn't mean much. The real test is what the voltage drops to when you try to start the tractor.
Put battery voltage straight to the starter and see if it cranks. If it does then you will know you have a bad relay. If it does the same thing then it's a bad battery or bad starter solenoid or a bad ground.

My tractor has 8 in the fuse block then 2 more under the dash cluster and a diode.
I hooked my battery charger up when I tried to start it and had it on boost, all the voltage from the battery is there but not enough is coming through the ignition system also the fuel shut off is not clicking when I turn the key but when I attach a jumper it works fine. So it is prob the relay or a couple relays. There are extra's in the fuse block like the turn signals I can switch to check them. When you turn the key the voltage does not drop it just don't send any power to the starter. I'm also pretty sure I heard the main starter relay click a couple times last week when it went out.

 

[workinonit]

The fuel shutoff has nothing to do with the starter turning the engine over. Two separate issues. The fuel shutoff will stop working when the cold start thermistor shorts to ground but that typically will blow the fuse for the FSO. This sounds more like a grounding issue.

 

[steve flint]

The fuel shutoff has nothing to do with the starter turning the engine over. Two separate issues. The fuel shutoff will stop working when the cold start thermistor shorts to ground but that typically will blow the fuse for the FSO. This sounds more like a grounding issue.

The fuel shut off relay comes off the by pass start relay which gets power from the main Starter Relay (the pic I posted) everything comes and gets power from the main Starter Relay in the Startup System. It’s around $30.00 why I’m changing it.

 

[workinonit]

Yep. What I told you was just information from a lesson learned. The thermistor is in the FSO circuit and that thermistor is bad about going to ground. At least on the 5310 and 5320. I think it's the same on all of them. When that thermistor goes to ground the fuse will blow and you have a no crank issue. Just FYI. Not that it's related to your problem now. Hope the relay fixes your issue. Hope you checked all of those grounds first.

 

[steve flint]

I had a combination of a bad ground where the negative cable attaches to the tractor frame. It must have shorted out when the starter locked up and a bad relay. It’s running great now. I cleaned all my connections, my hot start has been unhooked for awhile it blows the ign fuse and has for awhile, I’m going to replace it this fall. “Workinonit” thank you for all your input, I checked everything you mentioned and cleaned those grounds this morning changed both ignition relays and it fired right up. Experience is always the best advice!

 

[Tx Jim]

Clean/tighten all 4 battery cable connections paying special attention to ground cable connections

 

[workinonit]

Bad grounds are hard to get your head around when you are troubleshooting. Partial voltage is a good sign of that being the issue.