Joystick float

   / Joystick float #11  
I don't have a manual handy right now, but the cap can be seen in pic #1 above. It is the tall, plastic, rectangular shaped cover with two long socket head cap screws holding it down. Pic #2 shows the control with the cap removed. Pic #3 show the cap after it has been removed with the internal components still inside. Pic #4 shows all the parts removed from the cap. In this pic you can see the spring, completely broken in this case.
Yes, you are correct, no fluid will be lost by removing the cap.
 
   / Joystick float #12  
Thanks, Thing! I'll get to it just as soon as..... We got another foot+ yesterday & last night, and I'll get at it shortly. Covered most of the blowing yesterday afternoon, but have to hit it all again.

Finally broke a shear pin! (Is that like an initiation or something? :D) Fortunately, replacement wasn't bad. It'll get another good workout today.
 
   / Joystick float #13  
Thing,

Got it. The AGCO Parts Book calls it a "Control Assembly, Spool", and now I understand what your pictures are showing.

The storm that hit Irvingj also gave us close to 2' of snow - but it's hard to tell how much fell from the sky and how much was blown around by the wind. Either way, there will be some serious snow blowing fun taking place this morning (after coffee and sunrise).

Thanks for your help,
Jay
 
   / Joystick float #14  
So, Jay, how'd it go? I'd guess you had as much "fun" as I did.... in between coming inside to warm up! Blower again did an amazing job; only problem is that tractor has now gone over 50 hrs....

Time to go over the manuals again, after cleaning off the tractor; it was completely covered with a half inch of blown snow (driver, too). Didn't look red anymore. (Anybody make white tractors? :D)
 
   / Joystick float #15  
So, Jay, how'd it go? I'd guess you had as much "fun" as I did.... in between coming inside to warm up! Blower again did an amazing job; only problem is that tractor has now gone over 50 hrs....

Time to go over the manuals again, after cleaning off the tractor; it was completely covered with a half inch of blown snow (driver, too). Didn't look red anymore. (Anybody make white tractors? :D)

It was a blast, albeit a cold blast.

We must be on about the same schedule as I just went over 50 hours a week ago. It has also been interesting to see how much more diesel fuel it uses when running at 2,600 RPMs and moving lots of snow. But it's fuel well spent. :D

I still haven't tried to fix the joystick float problem because I was concerned about messing it up worse, which has happened from time to time....:rolleyes: But it's on my list.

I did the 50 hour service at about 45 hours because I wanted to switch to synthetic oil before this weather hit, and I'm glad I did. It was a lot more fun doing the service when I did than it would be now. :eek:

Happy Holidays!

Jay
 
   / Joystick float #16  
50 hour service done.... Somehow I had a feeling it would happen on just about the coldest day of the year! We had about 2 below yesterday AM.

Ran my little propane blaster all day while tractor was in garage. Engine oil was pretty easy, but the hydraulic fluid change got a bit involved- tractor back outside, ROPS up, backhoe off, ROPS down, into the garage, ROPS back up, 3PH freed up & dropped, left wheel off for the suction filter.... Finally got the tractor all back together & the backhoe back on --in the dark-- in the driveway. I'll do the front axle later, thank you!

Oh well, the little red beast deserved a bit of TLC. Snowing lightly now, with "wintry mix" on the way.... then another round of sleet/freezing rain/rain (changing back to snow, natch) Sat/Sun :mad: Wish it would just stay snow!
 
   / Joystick float
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Thanks for the info and for asking the obvious question, because I didn't want too :D. The "where" and "how" of it.

Haven't tried to adjust yet, but now that I'm armed with some more info (and pictures-yeah!!!) I'll give it a go in the daylight.

After plowing last time I couldn't get the key back out. Must have frozen inside the lock. Anyway, it made me forget all about my float issue temporarily.

Ended up letting it sit that way till it warmed up, and then the key came right out.
 
   / Joystick float
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Removed it, inspected it, moved the joystick about a bit, and replaced. But didn't seem to change the functionality. The spring from the first picture looks exactly as pictured and the cap/assembly splits into 2 pieces. But, there are no internal pieces to remove/come apart from there. Seems welded together.

I peered inside the cap assembly and I do see what looks like a ring or washer inside, but that was about it. Was able to get in there with a small screwdriver and the ring/washer would spin, so it's not stuck. Will post a picture if that would help but not sure it will come out. Is it this ring/washer that the value is suppose to "catch" on? If so, maybe that's my problem and the washer/ring should extend inward more? It's pretty flush right now.
 
   / Joystick float #19  
Husky-- keep us posted; I'll probably take a look at mine today-- it'll be warm enough to work outside!
 
   / Joystick float #20  
OK, I tore mine apart, trying to figure out how it works.

As near as I can figure, the ring near the end of the detent shaft (not a separate piece, but machined onto the shaft) has to "pop" by the split ring that sits inside the cap, near its base. Husky, you had the right idea, I think.

In mine, the split ring is definitely visible as having a slighter smaller diameter than the inside of the cap, and it will slip around in its groove easily. Hard to see, but I believe the forward & rearward faces --approach slopes-- of the ring on the shaft are tapered just a bit so it will force the split ring open, pass under & beyond it, and be retained behind it.

In the third photo, the split ring can clearly be seen. Short of replacing the split ring with a new one, or one of slightly greater thickness, I don't see any way to increase the "holding" power of the detent mechanism.

I did, however, turn the cap upside down when I put it back, just to change the position of things relative to one another-- and it did actually seem to require more force to get the detent rod to "pop" into float! We'll see if that makes any difference at all next time I run it-- :eek:
 

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