Just another junk chainsaw

   / Just another junk chainsaw #521  
What is the best way to store your extra sawchain loops? I went to sharpen my loops today and a few were a little stiff, I assume from sap. No big deal but it did take me some extra time flexing links.

I have a clamp clamped sideways and I hang them on the bar. It’s pretty dry where I have them and I’ve never had any problems with rust. The worst I’ve had a chain rust was when I carelessly slid it back in the bar cover that was full of wet oak chips.
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw #522  
I don't cut Pine unless it's an emergency. The sap is terrible. Not sure what people use to clean it off the saws.
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw #523  
What is the best way to store your extra sawchain loops? I went to sharpen my loops today and a few were a little stiff, I assume from sap. No big deal but it did take me some extra time flexing links.

I have about half a dozen 18" chains. I keep them in a gallon size zip-lock freezer bag (heavier plastic) with a few drops of oil in it. They fit in the case with my saw. As I use them, I just put the dull ones in the bottom of the case. When I get down to one or two left in the bag, I sharpen all of the dull ones in one sitting and put them back in the "sharp" bag.
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw #524  
I have about half a dozen 18" chains. I keep them in a gallon size zip-lock freezer bag (heavier plastic) with a few drops of oil in it. They fit in the case with my saw. As I use them, I just put the dull ones in the bottom of the case. When I get down to one or two left in the bag, I sharpen all of the dull ones in one sitting and put them back in the "sharp" bag.
That sounds like a very good method. I did not think of this until now, but before I put my Stihl gas hedge trimmer away I spray the bar with Stihl Superclean, a resin dissolver and lube. That should work well on my sawchains.

Resin solvent: Spray, cleaner and lubricant | STIHL | STIHL
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw #525  
I try to avoid kinking the chains. They’re a pain to untangle. I usually have to lay them on the concrete floor and try to visualize how they got that way and do the opposite to them.
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw #526  
At my buddies shop last night. He's got a nice little collection on the shelf. 20190107_184841.jpeg20190107_184945.jpeg
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw #528  
Very nice. Do you know what model Homelite that is on the far end?
I don't, but I'll ask. Interesting that you look at the front and you see the Piston in the hole.... No muffler back then.
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw #529  
I think it's a newer version of an EZ-1, I have one of those stashed at my moms... even got it running at one point :), loud when you can see the piston through the "exhaust diverter". Once I get my shop built I'm going to get all my older and cooler chainsaws hanging on the wall somewhere...
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw #530  
   / Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#531  
Finished up other folks saws and still felt like working. So rebuilt the carb on my #1 PP445 71cc 50mm that didnt run so good awhile back when compared to the 441.
Also tried to show the walbro tool for setting heights. Also have a zama one. Their cheap, quick and handy.

Chainsaw repair website where I save the info http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php

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   / Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#534  
Traded this saw off late 2010. Today I bought it back. Guy said around 5 tanks threw it on new oem topend. :cool:

Said he just dont grab for the biggin to often.


h3120prr.jpgh3120prrrr.jpgh3120prrrrr.jpg
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw #536  
23 lbs big and 8.3 HP power! Yikes!
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw
  • Thread Starter
#538  
Somebody heard me whine about the heavy saws.

2 more came in.

s088x.jpgs088.jpg
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw #539  
Well I had a 24 inch diameter log roll onto my Stihl MS441. The bar was propped on a smaller log and the larger log jackknifed the saw. The top dog connection snapped as well as the rear stud and chain tensioner post. I checked with two Stihl dealers and the clutch half of the housing was $249 (list) at one dealer and $183 at another. The second one spun his screen for me to see the price. The first said 3 hours shop time, the second (counter intake guy) guessed an hour but his mechanic (on vacation) has the say on that. The first said the entire saw needs to come apart, the second said his mechanic would have to say. I left the saw with the second guy. Any insight into how much of a job this is to repair? The saw is 12 years old but runs excellent and I do not really want to pay $1000+ on a new big saw. Any opinions are appreciated. The saw starts and runs fine, the crack is on the top ear of the housing where the dogs attach.
DA1B6859-7F75-438D-8623-6DE799D8A9FF.jpeg. 21B55AFD-9BCC-4ABD-970A-302CEE8B26D4.jpeg
 
   / Just another junk chainsaw #540  
It's a big job.

The cylinder will need to be pulled off so they can split the cases and replace the clutch side. There's a number of small things that need to be pulled off to remove the cylinder and split the cases (muffler, gas tank/handle, carb, etc). Stihl has a factory puller that splits the cases from that side but it bolts to the bar studs, so they'd have to drill out and replace the broken one first. Three hours sounds reasonable. It'd take me longer but I'm a home mechanic not a pro.

While it's apart have them inspect and measure the piston and cylinder and check the main bearings for wear. I'd have the rings and crank seals replaced at a minimum. If they balk at measuring the piston just have them put in a new piston and wrist pin bearing and clrclips. It's too bad about the damage but if the mechanic is good and you're willing to throw a few more $$ at it you'll have a saw that'll last for a long time.
 

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