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Dftodd
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- vilonia, arkansas
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- Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S
Just bought 6 acre of land. Now what???
- Thread starter Dftodd
- Start date
stumblinhorse
Platinum Member
Only go 1 time a week. My last day of work will be the day I die I suspect. Until then the further I am away from people when I’m on “my time” the better.Nope. Not while I'm still working. Now after I retire
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tradosaurus
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tradosaurus
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Given the demographics of Vilonia it must be a peaceful area.
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I could do that, we do have small Grocery Store 10 miles, Walmart and real grocery stores 60 miles round trip. Just have to not go every day.
Kinda set on staying here, surrounded by wilderness not houses.
stumblinhorse
Platinum Member
Pretty similar. Emergency food 12 miles and grocery 88 miles. Tractor dealer 150 miles 1 way 300 round trip.
paulsharvey
Elite Member
Is there water already onsite; or just a water main available to tap? That's a $5000 question. If it's onsite; awesome; but if it's just available; the tap fee, any road bores, ect could be upwards of $5k.That's was part of the selling point. Just far enough out for piece and quiet, but a 6 mile round trip to the grocery store.
15 miles to the city and all the amenities.
The other big selling point was city water on the property. Well water in the area is sketchy. It's either high Sulphur content, or high iron content. The home's we looked at that had wells in that area all had high iron content.
Required a home filtration system and really poor water pressure.
The lot north of us can't be built on. It's in a bowl where all the water from the surrounding area drains too.
We have a 400ft buffer of oak trees between our build site and the 4acres being built on behind us.
And a cow pasture across the street.
Lot south of us is vacant field. And we can leave a buffer of trees for privacy. The people who own it have a house in the woods behind the field.
So no neighbors in site.
How about sewer and/or reclaimed water? If just 'potable' water, with no sewer; make sure your not triple paying for just water. Typically, potable water is dirt cheap, the expensive part of your water bill is the treatment of waste water (roughly 1/3 is potable; 2/3rds of the price per gallons is for WW treatment). If reclaimed/reuse/grey water (purple pipe) is available, sign up, it's a great deal for irrigation.
If Reclaimed water isn't available, it Might be worth while to have a shallow well for non-potable use (washing cars, irrigation, filling pool, ect)
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Dftodd
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- vilonia, arkansas
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- Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S
No road bore. The water main is on the property. $1,000 for the tap and meter, $50, connection fee, $40 permit.
Water departments already cashed the check. I just gotta get the county to decide on if I need a culvert or not.
There isn't a ditch on my side of the road. Just waiting for a call back from the county to discuss it.
Once the culverts in or the stone for the driveway, the water department will come out and install the meter.
No sewer. I'm waiting on one last bid for the septic system. Permits all filed for that as well.
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Dftodd
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- vilonia, arkansas
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- Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S
It's quiet. At least out where the property is. Sitting outside, all you hear is the birds and critters.
Not much traffic down the road. Neighbors coming or going. And the farmer coming down on is side by side or tractor to check on his cows.
paulsharvey
Elite Member
If you can talk the county into a swaled or ditch block style driveway, over a culvert, that will save some $$$$. I think a 40 ft 18" CMP with 4:1 cut miters is around $1800 for just the pipe. If you do have to do the culvert; go with 40 ft over 32 ft; you won't regret it down the road (unless they spec the length in the permit).
Swaled drive basically goes down to the flow line, following the existing grades/slopes; and allows free flow of water. If that creates a slope of greater then 10% down and then 10% back up; you'll drag trailer jacks or corvette noses. Only good with a hard surface drive (asphalt or concrete)
A ditch block drive has a minor low point at the center for water to flow after it stages up; but doesn't follow the contour of the ditch. This works well where there is very little flow, and good percolating soils. Only good with asphalt or concrete.
This all assumes there is somewhat of a swale on their road side; a typical paved road cross section. should be about 2-3% 'crown'; 4-10% grassed shoulder; 4:1 front slope; flow line/ditch invert; then 3:1 or less back slope to the ROW line. Dirt or gravel roads; might have more cross slope or none at all; and may or may not have a grassed shoulder at all; or even a shoulder that is higher then the edge of travel; from a lack of maintenance...