Just got my first tractor. Tips for mowing steep slopes?

[RjCorazza]

Tallguy, are you sure the manual says to back up the hill and drive down? That is exactly opposite of what I would do. I try to keep the weight on my back wheels as much as possible.

I would drive up the hill and back down the hill always in 4WD and slow.

All of my Kubota manuals recommend backing up the slope and driving down. I'm not sure what their reasoning is in this, as I think an accident is more likely to occur by sliding down the slope going forward.
I have taken the ride forward down a slope, and it's an eye opener. I have never had the front end off the ground going up a slope forward.
As far as the op's question about a 3 point implement preventing a roll over, the 3 point is free to float up so I wouldn't count on it stopping a roll over. Granted it will take some force to raise, and may bind up and save the day.
Not addressing anyone in particular, but the 2 things that will get one killed on a tractor are inexperience and complacency. For my 25-28 degree 1/4 acre bank I use a walk behind mower... And I have rolled it on the bank once.

 

[Citydude]

As a former right of way mower and heavy equipment operator, always back up a slope. If you loose traction, you want to be able to steer your way back down the hill going forward and not backwards.

 

[RalphVa]

So I finally took delivery of my Kubota B2301 with underbelly mower. I've had a go at mowing our 2 acres of pasture, half of which is pretty steep (20-25 degrees). I mowed straight up and down the slope as advised, following the manual's advice to back up the slopes rather than drive head first up hill. Hitting slight depressions and lumps at that angle is enough to make the tractor feel like it's getting close to rolling over, though. It was a little scary at times.

So any tips for a newbie mowing slopes would be appreciated!

I couple of specific questions:

1. The tractor came equipped with a loader + bucket, and I also have a box blade and a rotary-tiller (not yet connected). Is it best to mow slopes with or without these attachments? I did wonder whether having the loader on the front might give it some extra front weight so I could mow forward up the hill, rather than backing up the hills. Am I correct? Also, if I put the tiller / box blade on the back and keep it low to the ground, won't this also help prevent the tractor from tipping over backwards when mowing forward up a hill?
2. Is it possible to space the wheels wider on this tractor? Is it an expensive upgrade? Would this make much off a noticeable difference to its stability on slopes?
3. If I do tip the tractor over, will the ROPS and seatbelt save me, or is there still a good chance of getting killed? Will tipping the tractor over damage the tractor / mower at all?

I'd back up the hill and then go forward down it. ALWAYS keep in 4wd unless on pavement. Otherwise, you won't have any front brakes, which can be disastrous going downhill because the back may skid in 2wd. If there's a tapering or nearer level spot at the top of the hill. You could turn around up there and go up and down the hill going forward, especially with the FEL on.

 

[John0829]

I would consider the FEL and a box blade a liability, yes weight is your friend but it needs to be low mounted a possible such as loaded tires and wheel weights are the way to go. Mowing steep slopes can be scary, just pay attention to the pucker factor, if puckered up to where your back side has that extra hold on the seat then back away from the situation and come up with another plan of attack.

Several years ago a recently divorced neighbor asked me to mow her place all of it hills and one area 25+ degrees was the milder parts of it, it took time but I could make a circle around on less steep areas so that each cut was made going downhill maybe you can do the same.

 

[ericm979]

The belly mower won't keep you from going over.

If you roll the tractor keep your hands on the wheel. It's human nature to stick your arms out to break a fall but you might get something caught under the tractor. The ROPS should keep you from going over all the way and getting crushed. You should be wearing your seat belt for anything remotely risky (or better, all the time). The ROPS doesn't do any good if you're thrown under it.

If you roll shut the engine off immediately. Don't start it up for a while after righting the tractor to let all the fluids settle back to where they're supposed to be. There will probably be body damage to the tractor if you roll it. The battery can leak. (hose off the acid ASAP). Rolling it is dangerous even with the ROPS- what if you're right next to a tree or fence pole?- so it's best to think ahead and take it easy. Being scared is a good reason to take it slower or do it a different way.

The reason for backing up a slope is that the rear tires get better traction than the front. If you drive up forwards it's easier for the tractor to do a wheelie and then keep going over backwards. An implement on the back won't prevent that and you'd be rolling over right into the implement.

I don't think the rear wheels on these tractors are adjustable like they are on larger tractors. You can get rear wheel spacers though which will help a lot. Filling the rear tires adds weight down low making it more stable, as do wheel weights. A box blade kept low will help lower the CG. Or you can get a weight box. If you have the loader on you have to keep the bucket low in order to keep the CG low.

Going up and down the steep parts is the right way to do it. Find less steep parts to turn around in. Be aware of lumps on the high side and holes on the low side that can quickly turn a comfortable tilt to an uncomfortable one, and be prepared to stop and back up before things get out of hand. Once you have mowed an area a number of times and found all the gnarly parts (and filled in holes or moved rocks as needed) then you can relax a bit

 

[dodge man]

I also think the tractor is more stable without any implements attached. I drive forward up the hill and back down it. The hills on my property I can drive up the steep part and then circle around and go downhill on less steep parts.

In my mine driving up the hill forward puts the weight on the larger rear tires which have better traction, plus you can use the differential lock.

 

[WranglerX]

Drive up the hill, drive down the hill, go slow, do not go across face of slope, if you are losing traction and directional control, you are on to steep of a hill, FEL and rear box blade or ballast box (my preference) will help keep CG low if kept in lower positions.... Wheel spacers will give more overall stability for any work operation using tractor..........

 

[Rdrcr]

I mow steep slopes (similar to yours) and hills with my B2601.

My B2601 has 2” steel Bora spacers and ballast tires for increased stability. I highly recommend both!

When I mow, I remove all attachments (aside from the 60” MMM). No FEL, no rear attachment. I mow the steep slopes straight up, and then back down (I don’t care what the manual says), mowing backwards, using 4WD and low gear. I always pay attention to any obstacles when mowing in reverse. I’ve never had any issues and the tractor is safe.

You’ll only run into issues if you attempt to side mow. Don’t do it! My only pucker factor incidents have been when I’m over confident and attempt stupid maneuvers.

Mike

 

[bigtiller]

Just my opinion, it's to steep to mow.
Control the weeds with 2-4-D and let the grass grow.
Option 2.... get some goats.

 

[ericm979]

One other thing to keep in mind is that the front axle is on a center pivot. That means that it's rear tires only that keep the tractor upright. The front will hit a stop but that's pretty far over.