normde2001
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The only thing that should limit the lower lift arm width travel is the tires. You have to disconnect the check chains before hooking up. 26" is the standard cat. 1 width.
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- Thread starter coosa
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Norm, you are right on the Yanmar. No other tractor I've ever used required the check chains to be disconnected to hook up, but that's the only way I can make this tractor work. Turning the pins in is a good idea, and the Quick Hitch system is probably even better. I'm going to my farm tomorrow and will bring back the JD arms and see if they will work any better. I had a Pat's system on my JD, but it wore down so much that the pins were slipping out of it. I got tired of that and replaced it with the telescoping arms that should have been on the tractor in the first place. That HF Quick Hitch looks like a great system, but I don't think I will use this tractor enough to justify it right now anyway. I'll either turn the pins in or use the JD arms.
I had time to work my road using the scrape blade today and got a good idea of what the tractor will do. I fixed the road better than its ever been in 21 years of living here. Got nice ditches everywhere now and left it good and smooth as well. But I found out its possible to dig yourself into a corner with this thing. Piles of dirt that the Super C would go right over will stop the Yanmar. After getting myself into a couple of binds, I began to understand what it would do and wouldn't do. If anyone is reading this thread and thinking of buying a VN tractor with no ROPS system, let me encourage you not to do it unless you are just gonna be working a flat field. The Super C has no ROPS of course, but I've never felt in any real danger with it. It certainly could turn over, but you gotta be pretty careless to do it with that wide wheel base. This little Yanmar would be real easy to roll over, and could happen in a second. It has enough power to dig a deep hole and a narrow enough wheel base that you could easily turn over in it.
I also bought a used 12x16 disc today; its made by the same folks that make the Andy cutters. It seems about right for the tractor. Here's a pic of me circling a field that needs to be bush-hogged. I had the disc down but was just playing with it:
I've got to buy a rotary cutter of some kind and then I hope I am thru spending money for a while. Thanks to all for your help!
This is what I have on my YM2000BD With it I can change Implements in about one to two minutes... Pat's 3-Point Quick Hitch, Category 1, Stabilizer Bar Included...
Link>>> Quick Hitch, Pat's Quick Hitch, 3 Point Quick Hitch | Agri Supply, 70078, Easy C
Link>>> Quick Hitch, Pat's Quick Hitch, 3 Point Quick Hitch | Agri Supply, 70078, Easy C
clemsonfor
Super Member
I have an LMC small disk. It looks exactly like yours. I think LMC is in Alabama or Miss?
I have a VN tractor and a ROPS? will it hold togeather if it rolls over??? Looks like it will but i soetimes question that.
I have a VN tractor and a ROPS? will it hold togeather if it rolls over??? Looks like it will but i soetimes question that.
kenmac
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clemsonfor
Super Member
Yep thats themm. I have the one in the first picture when you click harrows. Its the 16. It has 16 disks that are 12" in diameter i think it is?
kenmac
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I don't have disc,but I have their cutter and their box blade.. Bought a rake harrow from them when my son was playing Base Ball in H S.. Used it to rake the B B field.. I donated it to the school when he graduated a few yrs ago
Mine has 12 discs that are each 16" in diameter; you can find them in all sorts of configurations.
I went to my farm today and did a little work; also did a lot of thinking about the problems I am having in hooking up equipment to the Yanmar. It just shouldn't be that way. I got the old JD arms and brought them home; they would actually work on the Yanmar if I bought longer stabilizer chains. But after looking at how the JD works, I realized that the Yanmar 3 point hitch system is likely just incorrectly installed. Here is the way it came from Fredricks:
Notice that the stabilizer chain is in front of the lift arm leveler. That leveler is what prevents it from opening far enough to hook to the equipment. Notice how its at an extreme angle toward the rear of the tractor, leaving no room for the arm to move. Now look at how the JD works:
In the JD system, the stabilizer chain is behind the lift arm leveler and allows it to open as far as needed. Also notice that the leveler is at about 90 degrees with the ground, allowing it to pick the arm straight up without any binding at all. I decided after looking at the JD that Fredricks just didn't install it correctly. When I got home, I moved the lift arm leveler so that it is now in front of the stabilizer chain. Now it picks straight up and isn't in a bind at all. I have a lot more movement in the lift arms and they will open all the way to the tires when hooking up equipment. I believe that the problem I've been having, and apparently others have too, is that Fredricks isn't installing the 3 point system correctly. Here is the way it looks now:
I did an internet search to see how other brands of tractors work, and all I found are like the JD. By moving it like I have done, it probably won't pick up quite as much weight. I think there is something of a mechanical advantage for it to lift at an angle the way they set it up. But the cost of that bit of extra lifting capacity is too high for me; I was dreading having to change equipment; now there is nothing to it. It will still lift my heaviest piece of equipment with ease, so I intend to leave it this way. If I can find longer stabilizer chains at a reasonable price I will switch to the JD arms. But I'm not really concerned about it now as everything hooks up easily. I hope some of you other guys will tell us how yours are set up/
kenmac
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I'm pretty sure mine are like the last pic... I changed mine not long after I got it..But I can't remember why I changed it
Clemson - I didn't mean to sound like I was putting down the VN tractors. They must work very well or they wouldn't sell so many. I just meant any small Yanmar should have a ROPS system. I don't know any reason to think the Fredricks version is better than the one you have. I don't really trust any of them and would rather not ever test it. I considered buying a used 1500 locally before deciding it didn't have enough power for me. I gave little consideration to the fact it didn't have a ROPS, and I should have.
I once watched my dad lay an International H on its side. He was trying to smooth out a high spot in a new field with a drag type disc. He would run over the high spot with one tire and then pull the disc over it, all the time going in a circle. He was going so fast that the tire came off the ground one pass. I yelled at him to slow down and he laughed and did throttle it back. But he was soon going wide open again and the tire bounced again. This time it kinda hung there for a second, and then laid right over on its side. Amazingly, he jumped and landed on his feet and wasn't hurt at all. The big tires on the H kept it from rolling completely over. We got a friend with a FEL to pick it up and it cranked and we went back to work. That was over 30 years ago and we still call that the Turnover Field.
A good day to all! I'm gonna go play with my new toy.