KAMA 554 Front Drive Repair

[3RRL]

Thanks for all the compliments guys, especially the sympathy about how crappy the working conditions were that weekend. I could use it since I ain't getting any from Loretta. lol ... Take that to mean whatever...

Dave, that "thing" on the back of my boxblade is the quick attach hydraulic gauge wheels I made originally for my rotary cutter and then for all other implements. I thought you'd seen the thread on it before?

Quick Attach Hydraulic Gauge Wheels

Scott, I'll let Loretta tell the mud bog story of when I buried the new Silverado, trailer and Kama hub high to a ferris wheel!
Tom, you are still nuts, but I like that idea better.
No hogs yet, but they are getting closer.

Thanks for looking guys!

 

[dfkrug]

Very nice guage wheels, Rob! I guess I zoned when you first talked of
building a better set for your RC. I see what it adds to your road grading
tasks using your BB. I was even able to view your video since I recently
got DSL. Sweet.

 

[3RRL]

I was even able to view your video since I recently
got DSL. Sweet.

Sweet indeed! What a difference, huh?
Now you can view all those other videos I've posted.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Hey Rob,
I just reread this thread because guess what? I'm having the same problem!

My right front pivot always leaked a little. On Saturday I roaded the tractor 10 miles each way to help someone out and I noticed quite a bit of leakage on both the pivot and hub seals after I got back. Of course I was in 2wd on the road. I disassembeled the right side and the upper bevel gears are worn enough that they were shedding sizable hunks of metal. I popped the top off the left side and those gears have similar wear. I think the original assembly had too many shims / too much clearance since all of the damage is at the outer corners of the gears. Where the upper casting bolts to the end of the axle the shims were almost 1/4" thick and the dowel pin was barely engaged.

I knew you had had this problem so I always tried to take it easy on the 4wd, only engaging it when needed.

The pivot leak was due to an improperly installed seal. I still haven't removed the big gear to see why the hub was leaking. The case was still full of oil and I don't think the gear failure was related. On the left side the gears were clearly swimming in oil when I took the top off.

I called Chip at ARTRAC today and he is shipping the gears out at a very reasonable price. He also gave me some tips on removing the big gear. I took some pictures - I think I'll start a fresh thread for my repair.

Hey man,
Thanks again for breaking everything that can be broken on this tractor and documenting how you fix it!

Brad

 

[3RRL]

Brad,
Sorry to hear about your Kama.
In your manual, there are instructions that tell you how to "center up" the wear spot on those gears. You will be removing/adding shims to get it centered, depending where the wear mark is on your gears. More than likely, the wear will only be on the bevel gear on the front drive shafts and the bevel gear on the vertical shaft where those two mate up. On mine, the big bevel gear had zero wear.

On your oil seals, the ones Chip sent me were super tight.
The little rubber molded seal (to the steel) ended up shearing off when I tapped the new seal on. What I did was remove that little molded rubber piece and substituted an "O" ring in there. I used a small thickness diameter "O" ring and squished it in there ... no leak since that.
If you have any particular questions, perhaps I can help you? Yes, I've been through the whole darn tractor by now. One thing that's happening now (as of very recently since my engine rebuild) is that the reverse shuttle shift wants to jump out of it's reverse position. I have adjusted the ball and plunger on it several times and it still wants to do it. I think I'll need to look at it more closely to somehow keep the shifter lever "deeper" engaged when in the reverse position. Keep an eye out for that...
Rob-

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Thanks Rob - I might be giving you a call. I'm only at 300 hours so I hope a proper gear alignment will eliminate this issue.

My reverse shuttle has never given me a problem. I had made my 4x4 plunger extra stiff a long time ago and it has been holding up well although the shift effort is pretty high. I wonder how it would work to replace the ball with a dowel pin? Maybe get rid of the ball and replace the existing pin with a longer one with a conical end? It might hold better since it can't roll. Compared to your usual repairs this one should be too easy.

I suppose you should also take a good look at the gear engagement and fork alignment to make sure it's not a symptom of another problem.

Brad

 

[3RRL]

I suppose you should also take a good look at the gear engagement and fork alignment to make sure it's not a symptom of another problem.

This is where I'll be going next with that.
PM me if you need my email or phone number...

 

[greg_g]

This is where I'll be going next ...

Actually, it's a bit simpler than that. At the base of the shuttle shift lever is a spring-tensioned weather cup. Below the cup and to the right (from the operator seat) is a set screw. It may be recessed, it may be obscured by paint. If it helps, look up part #8 on pg35 of your parts manual. Push the shuttle shift lever down against the spring tension while loosening that screw. Unless the screw was already loose (or missing), you should quickly feel the lever drop downward and bottom out. Tighten the set screw. That will once again hold the lever tip inside the top rails of shuttle fork #64.

FWIW, normal vibration caused my OE screw to back out every few months, at which point spring tension lifted the lever tip above the fork rails - rendering the shift lever temporarily useless. Didn't take too many times to get real tired of removing the cover plate, re-inserting the ball tip inside the rails, and re-tightening the set screw. So I eventually replaced the factory screw with a short hex head M8 bolt. Haven't had a problem since.

//greg//

 

[3RRL]

Actually, it's a bit simpler than that. At the base of the shuttle shift lever is a spring-tensioned weather cup. Below the cup and to the right (from the operator seat) is a set screw. It may be recessed, it may be obscured by paint. If it helps, look up part #8 on pg35 of your parts manual. Push the shuttle shift lever down against the spring tension while loosening that screw. Unless the screw was already loose (or missing), you should quickly feel the lever drop downward and bottom out. Tighten the set screw. That will once again hold the lever tip inside the top rails of shuttle fork #64.

FWIW, normal vibration caused my OE screw to back out every few months, at which point spring tension lifted the lever tip above the fork rails - rendering the shift lever temporarily useless. Didn't take too many times to get real tired of removing the cover plate, re-inserting the ball tip inside the rails, and re-tightening the set screw. So I eventually replaced the factory screw with a short hex head M8 bolt. Haven't had a problem since.

//greg//

Great information Greg,
I'll be checking on that tomorrow then. Thank you!

 

[PAGUY]

Rob - Another good read on your fixes.

I now learned not to be leaving my Kubota in 4 wheel drive when it isn't necessary. I have been only using my tractor for cleaning up snow (recent storms dumped 27" and another 8"). I now figure I could be putting unnecessary stress on those components.

Thanks for the information.