Kasco front blade

[Hooked_on_HP]

I just bought a Kasco mfg. front mounted blade .It is new but 5 yrs old. The person I bought it from didn't have the instructions. I am pretty shure I have all the parts but am not shure how the mount for the front of the tractor should go together. If anyone has a Kasco front blade and could post a few pics it would be of great help. Or if you have instructions would be better. If not I will sit and stare at it awhile untill I think I have it figured out and put it together that way.
Bill

 

[Newblue]

Kasco items are made in Shelbyville, IN if that helps any.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I did know that. I looked on their web site for info, but I think they no longer make the front blade and couldn't findany pics or info.
Bill

 

[RickB]

I did know that. I looked on their web site for info, but I think they no longer make the front blade and couldn't findany pics or info.
Bill

There is an email link for 'information' on the contact page of Kasco's website.
I'd be sending them a request for a setup manual or parts breakdown, or both.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I think I have every thing figured out. I have everything in place just not tightened up.I still have a little fabricating to do. I do have 1 extra piece but I think that is because this was bought for a cub and I am putting it on a Ford. This is a verry well designed blade. I do have 1 more question. The lift cyl has 2 pins on the upper mounting plate. If you remove the lower pin it allows the blade to float and still alows you to raise the blade. With both pins in you have the ability to use down pressure. The control valve that came with it doesn't have float. I am wondering if it would be easier to get a control valve with float so you wouldn't have to keep changing the pin.
Bill

 

[JB4310]

Is this blade for snow? if so then you need float and rarely need down pressure, vice versa if the blade is for dirt.

Can't completely picture your set up, but if the plow will float when that pin is removed without the different/new valve, then run it like that for snow. If your doing dirt work then pin it and you'll have the down pressure. best of both worlds.

Get some pics, good luck

.

 

[kennyd]

The lift cyl has 2 pins on the upper mounting plate. If you remove the lower pin it allows the blade to float and still alows you to raise the blade. With both pins in you have the ability to use down pressure. The control valve that came with it doesn't have float. I am wondering if it would be easier to get a control valve with float so you wouldn't have to keep changing the pin.
Bill

Does your loader come off to mount/use this blade? If so then why not use the valve you have?

Like JB, I am not fully seeing the big picture...some photos would help a lot.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Here are some pics. The 1st pic is of the lower brace that goes from the bottom of the mount back to the drawbar mount in the back. The second pic has both pins in locking it so you have down pressure. The 3rd and 4th are with the pin out allowing it to float. I did think about using my loader valve but it is mounted to the loader and is a PITA to remove the hoses. I also wanted to get away from the regen. I dont think the valve that came with the blade has it. ll I have left to do is hook up the hydraulics.
Bill

 

[kennyd]

Excellent pictures, Now I understand that you FEL valve is attached to the loader and removed with it.

So, this blade came with a 2-spool valve? I would suggest a new joystick valve run your blade-and if your real ambitious you could make it work the loader and the blade and solve your regen problem forever.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Kenny, It came with a 2 spool 2 lever valve. I would like to use a 1 valve for everything like you suggested. Where would you put the quick disconects. There is not enough room at the valve. Maby put 2' hoses off the valve and then the QD's?
Bill

 

[kennyd]

Kenny, It came with a 2 spool 2 lever valve. I would like to use a 1 valve for everything like you suggested. Where would you put the quick disconects. There is not enough room at the valve. Maby put 2' hoses off the valve and then the QD's?
Bill

Sure Bill, that would work...And 2' hoses are cheap from the Surplus Center.

You would probably need to mount the loader, then design the mount for the new valve so it does not interfere with it and then go from there...Wish you where closer-sounds like a fun project!

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Do they make a distribution block that I could mont solid and have the hoses go to it and put the QD's on the bacside of it. I looked on SC's but couldn't find any thing. But that could be because I don't know exactly what to call it.
Bill

 

[kennyd]

Do they make a distribution block that I could mont solid and have the hoses go to it and put the QD's on the bacside of it. I looked on SC's but couldn't find any thing. But that could be because I don't know exactly what to call it.
Bill

No, Not really.

What you want is some Bulkhead Couplings, and mount them in a piece of angle iron. Hoses feed the back side, and QD's mounted directly on the other-it's a beautiful thing!

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

One more question Kenny. On the valve you suggested it has 1 #8 work port and the rest are#6. What is the reason for this?
Bill

 

[kennyd]

One more question Kenny. On the valve you suggested it has 1 #8 work port and the rest are#6. What is the reason for this?
Bill

Not sure to be honest...there are other valves also that will work-I just picked that one to link.

 

[JB4310]

That's interesting, a great option to be able to switch between float and DP with simple link. With that type of float there would be no residual hyd delay like some have mentioned, relying on the valve. Can't tell by the pics but with that design it must be pretty heavy gauge more like a grader than a snow plow.

How wide is it?

Also why the 2 DA cylinders, never seen that before, is that due to the type of valve used, or is it to make the plow stouter on both sides when angled?

.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

This is a heavy made blade. I think it is for dirt or snow because you can lock the blade to keep it from tripping. The dual cyl. seem like over kill for moving snow. It has a 1/2" thick cutting edge.
Bill

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I got it finished today! here are some pics.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Since there isn't any snow I took it out to play in the dirt! I was verry impressed. Even with a full blade you could angle it to put the dirt where you want it.The down pressure also helps you keep grade. It is like having a small dozer. The one thing that was really noticeable is how well you could see. Evan with the blade at full angle you could easily see both ends. I am going to replace the control valve. The control levers are so close together you can put your hand around both at the same time. It makes it hard to just grab one.
Bill

 

[JB4310]

Looks great! You made pretty short work of that project.

Looks like a dozer, why can't you bend those levers to your liking instead of getting a whole new valve?

Still can't get over that plumbing set up for the angle cylinders, the way they are powered in opposite directions I see how you could angle full blade fulls of dirt.

With the 2 blades now you'll be all set when the snow flies.