Keep front wheels straight when filling bucket!

   / Keep front wheels straight when filling bucket! #31  
Same thing for me, if I was afraid it might tweak the loader when turning then it would be time for a new and different tractor.
 
   / Keep front wheels straight when filling bucket! #32  
IMO the last thing you want is tubes in a tire! You probably got dirt in the bead is all . So dismount, clean both bead surfaces. I have seen grease used on the bead. And also have used Either to seat beads. Air up the front tires to max recommended air pressure and dig on ! I bet you will keep an eye on air pressure after this!:thumbsup:
 
   / Keep front wheels straight when filling bucket! #33  
Same here, If I could not backdrag while turning I would get a bigger stronger one that could:) Seriously I have done some things to my 2 Kubota Loaders, that some would consider abuse and haven't broken anything yet. I am not saying you have to do stupid things that might break something, but like Triple R says, I don't just carry a hay bale in the loader like the brochures show either! I think a lot of new guys are so afraid of breaking their shiny new toy the never get the full potential out of it. Let me have it for an hour and I will show them what a loader can do.;)

James K0UA
Well, I am afraid of breaking my shiny new toy:D So far 90% of my use has been with the loader and with only 26 hours of loader work on my tractor I don't know better than the manual just yet, but soon I guess I will try things and not get burned and I guess that will become my new SOP. I think if you guys reread your manuals you'll find they have all sorts of warnings of what not to do as well. But you guys run your tractors how you like and I'll run mine and hopefully none of us break down.
 
   / Keep front wheels straight when filling bucket! #34  
IMO the last thing you want is tubes in a tire! You probably got dirt in the bead is all . So dismount, clean both bead surfaces. I have seen grease used on the bead. And also have used Either to seat beads. Air up the front tires to max recommended air pressure and dig on ! I bet you will keep an eye on air pressure after this!:thumbsup:

I was reading all replies to see if anyone would respond as you did about dirty beads. Yours was the first post I saw and I completely agree with your. Dirt in the bead area of a rim and/or dirt on the tire bead will make them leak slowly. A good cleaning and soap on the bead is all I've ever needed to get a tire seated with a reasonable CFM from a compressor. I've rolled my industrial tires off my rims when I let my pressure get too low. I always clean them up, apply the ratchet strap, and soap both beads wet before trying to set the bead. The soapy water aids catching air and expanding the bead.

I've never used ether, but a very light spray of starting fluid (which contains ether) and a match has seated a lot of tires and made great YouTube videos.:laughing: If I had a ratchet strap around a tire, I'd be very careful about the quantity of ether.
 
   / Keep front wheels straight when filling bucket! #35  
Rolled a front tire off the rim plowing but never scooping. Couldn't get bead to seal so I took it to a schwabby and they had it back on in no time.
 
   / Keep front wheels straight when filling bucket! #36  
You will be more successful in seating a tire bead if you first remove the valve stem.
 
   / Keep front wheels straight when filling bucket! #37  
I have another thought, and wonder if any of you have tried something similar. What if I dismounted the tire again (taking it off the tractor this time), cleaned up the tire beads and the rim well, then used silicone caulking as a lubricant and sealer for reseating the beads once more. That stuff is quite slippery when wet, and should help the seal when it cures.

Yes I have, but not on my tractor. The spare for my 16' trailer and both tires on my 2 wheeler hand cart were leaking at the beads. I broke one side loose, then spread on a healthy amount of rubber cement, and aired them up to seat the bead. Repeated the process to the other side and now all three tires are holding air.

Silicone would probably work, but I wonder if you ever had to change the tire in the future, could you get the silicone off of the rim.
 
   / Keep front wheels straight when filling bucket! #38  
you need to be careful. or at least i got a good talk from tire guy that came out and changed ford 555c TLB rear tires. rear tires and if you have 4x4 or MFWD fronts. then getting the bead to slippery, could mean. spinning the wheel on the rim. and perhaps damage the tire itself.

if you have a tube as well. and you greased, or soaped, or what not. to get everything on. again you need to be cautious. if the tire spins on rim, you can kiss the valve stem good bye.

knowing myself, how i ride the stearing brakes time to time. and get my self into ugly situations, i could of prolly role the new tire off the rim. just after it was put on.

after some wear and tear on tire, guy said it would be fine, but just putting on and some time after to be cautious. *it made sense to me, due to how much stuff was put on, to get the tire onto the rim*

i would imagine, there is a bead sealer, but perhaps it is just a cleaner. i have seen tire places use *shrugs*
 
   / Keep front wheels straight when filling bucket! #39  
an after thought, what about ply rating and type of tire?

radial vs *forgets other type*

point getting at, is side walls, and tire itself. if the tire "balloons" the side walls out. more likely the tire going to pop off the rim.

if you had a better side wall tire, that did not flex as much. more likely it will stay on the rim.

remember though, the more flex there is in the side walls. a little more "suspension you have per say" when dealing with bumps. lower PSI = more flex within tire itself as well.
 

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