Keep front wheels straight when filling bucket!

[MHarryE]

Rubbery and hydrocarbons do not mix. The glycerine product you mention is probably the product mades especially for mounting. A thick soapy solution is a good alternative - cleans the rim, and when the water evaporates it is not really slippery. We have knurled surfaces on the bototm of the bead on all our wheels to prevent tire slippage. Sealing is really on the corner and side so you really need to brush both the wheel and tire super clean. Most tire companies publish their load/inflation tables on the web. Your operator's manual - does it specify the inflation pressure as being in all conditions or just base unit? For my machines I measured weight for all options and created a table in the manual with different pressures using different combinations. My Kubota takes the easy way out - it lists inflation pressure as the maxumum shown on the tire sidewall. It is rougher riding than any other tractor I run but I can imagine how Kubota would find it nearly impossible to figure out all the possible configurations.

 

[pat32rf]

My Kubota takes the easy way out - it lists inflation pressure as the maxumum shown on the tire sidewall. It is rougher riding than any other tractor I run but I can imagine how Kubota would find it nearly impossible to figure out all the possible configurations.[/QUOTE]

When my JD was delivered those were the pressures in the tires. Soon found that the seat safety switch kept killing the engine, even on my driveway. When I complained to the dealer he explained that it is easier for the customer to REDUCE the pressure until the comfort/traction point is reached. A lot of CUTs are used on pavement or for lawn cutting. They can run harder tires than us bush runners....

If you do much of your own tire work, it pays to buy a tin of bead sealer. Looks like rubber cement but is designed for tire work.
I normally run 30psi in the front of my JD 4300, but the left front has a "30 day" leak. Every 30 days it gets down to 12 psi and I add more. Gonna fix it before the snow comes...

 

[RoyJackson]

Someone earlier on in this Thread said they did loader work in 4WD, but someone else I know told me just today that you dont because he did it and cost him a few hundred on repairs...so who is right on this question. 2WD OR 4WD ?

No one is "right"...or "wrong" for that matter.
It just depends on the chore (what you're loading or carrying), the type of surface you're working on and a modicum of common sense. I use the front wheel assist when I need it...not just to use it.

Boy, this is a pretty old thread!

 

[IndyIan]

Someone earlier on in this Thread said they did loader work in 4WD, but someone else I know told me just today that you dont because he did it and cost him a few hundred on repairs...so who is right on this question. 2WD OR 4WD ?

I guess there's two things to watch for, pushing and lifting at the same time can put the whole tractors weight on the front axle and its not really made to transfer all the tractors power with all the extra traction. Trying not to scoop into the pile from the bottom can help avoid this.
Then having a full bucket plus rear ballast can give the tractor a huge amount of traction so sharp turns definetly put some force on the drivetrain with the front and back tires fighting each other.
If I'm just moving gravel around on level ground I don't use 4wd as I don't need it at all. On slopes or for hard packed dirt then I use 4wd.

 

[evan price]

I'd rather have a tube in a low speed, high load type application. I have tubed all my tractor tires, mower tires, wheelbarrow tires, some trailer tires...
Get a little dry rot in the tire, it won't hold air, but it will still do the job with a tube in it for a while to come.