Does any one here know anything about the kellogg air compressors. there is an eighty gallon tank 5 hp one for sale near home. She said that she was pretty sure it was a two stage compressor but didn't know if it was a single phase or a three phase. She said it was pretty old but hadn't been used much. She is asking $600 for it, is that excessive or is it just that I don't know much about that particular brand of air compressor? I know from reading on the net that in 1971 they sold out to another company and according to that article quality suffered in order to make it more competative product.
kellogg air compressor
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You might want to post this in the related topics forum. You will get more looks at it.
ponytug
Super Member
They are a high quality brand, but if it hasn't been used lately the orings could be stuck/sticky and you might be looking at an over-haul.
Just for comparison, you can get an Ingersol-Rand 3HP 60 gal, single phase, 230V, SSL3 for $599 from Northern tool.
There is a used Kellogg on ebay for $799 at the moment, supposedly in great shape. claims 14cfm, (It might actually be 19cfm.)
I'd make the call on how much air and how often you need it. If you are planning on using 10cfm all day every day, I'd get the Kellog, and take it to a dealer for an overhaul, wire it up, put synthetic oil in it and go for it. If you plan on using it intermittently, I would probably go for the IR.
Bear in mind that the Kelloggs tend to be 3 phase.
All the best,
Peter
Just for comparison, you can get an Ingersol-Rand 3HP 60 gal, single phase, 230V, SSL3 for $599 from Northern tool.
There is a used Kellogg on ebay for $799 at the moment, supposedly in great shape. claims 14cfm, (It might actually be 19cfm.)
I'd make the call on how much air and how often you need it. If you are planning on using 10cfm all day every day, I'd get the Kellog, and take it to a dealer for an overhaul, wire it up, put synthetic oil in it and go for it. If you plan on using it intermittently, I would probably go for the IR.
Bear in mind that the Kelloggs tend to be 3 phase.
All the best,
Peter
Thanks ponytug, I kind of thought it might have been a high quality compressor. It is a horizontal 80 gal tank with a 5 hp motor. She said that her husband had passed away about two years ago, she also said that it had been her fatherinlaw's so that gives it some age. She said that her neighbor had used it occasionally but that he had bought him a new one and that she was wanting it out of her way and that she was either getting a smaller one or had already gotten one.
The compressor would be a replacement for a single stage porter cable 5 hp 110 volts that I have in my power trac garrage. The pressure switch on that one has stuck twice the first time it stuck it blowed the regulator and when I discovered it I don't know how long it had ran but I barley touched the pressure relief valve and it opened. When I replaced the regulator I found that its max pressure ratting was about the same as the kick off pressure so I put a little higher rated regulator on it the next time the pressure relief valve opened as it should. When I get a chance I intend on checking to see if the contacts has a spring that I can stretch a little to give it a little more kick to keep the contacts from arcing so much and burning the contacts in on it.
The porter cable has a hard time keeping up with some of the things that I need it for. It kicks off for a few seconds then back on so there is no need to burn it up. I thought about putting an auxillery tank on it, but I don't know if that would help.
My motherinlaw had a stroke the next day after I posted the first post so I haven't been able to do anything concerning this, but I have learned that I can get an Ingersaul Rand two stage air compressor for $1299 new that might be a better way to go.
The compressor would be a replacement for a single stage porter cable 5 hp 110 volts that I have in my power trac garrage. The pressure switch on that one has stuck twice the first time it stuck it blowed the regulator and when I discovered it I don't know how long it had ran but I barley touched the pressure relief valve and it opened. When I replaced the regulator I found that its max pressure ratting was about the same as the kick off pressure so I put a little higher rated regulator on it the next time the pressure relief valve opened as it should. When I get a chance I intend on checking to see if the contacts has a spring that I can stretch a little to give it a little more kick to keep the contacts from arcing so much and burning the contacts in on it.
The porter cable has a hard time keeping up with some of the things that I need it for. It kicks off for a few seconds then back on so there is no need to burn it up. I thought about putting an auxillery tank on it, but I don't know if that would help.
My motherinlaw had a stroke the next day after I posted the first post so I haven't been able to do anything concerning this, but I have learned that I can get an Ingersaul Rand two stage air compressor for $1299 new that might be a better way to go.
Gravy
Platinum Member
If the Kellogg is powered up, run it and see how it sounds and how long it takes to fill the tank. If it reaches full pressure in 5 minutes or so, it's probably fine. It should be a true industrial quality compressor - maybe not absolutely top of the line, but still the Real Thing. Unless it's obviously beat half to death, it will likely still be working for your grandchildren. It should be enormously better quality than the Porter Cable. The Ingersoll Rand probably falls somewhere between the others as far as basic quality. It might make sense if the Kellogg is tired or you need a warranty.
Gator6x4
Super Star Member
Kellog air compressors have been around for a long time. CompAir bought out Kellogg in 1971. If the compressor belonged to the father in law it could be an old Kellog. The compressors on these units were built like a tank. They had oil pumps where most manafactures today rely on the splash method for lubrication.
I got an ingersoll rand 5hp, two stage pump, 80gal tank upright. It kicks off at 175 psi, and the only regulator that the store had was rated for only 150psi and the salesman said that he thought that would work but it seems to me that the compressor would blow the regulator up if you tried to use that one. Is my thinking right or is there something I don't know about that would make that regulator work?
ponytug
Super Member
Rated is rated. 175psi into a 150psi rated item is asking for trouble. Compressed gas explosions tend not to be pretty and a few have made the Darwin awards.
What you could do is adjust your compressor to kick out at 140 or so. Personally, I like a larger margin of safety.
I'd return the regulator and find one rated higher...
All the best,
Peter
What you could do is adjust your compressor to kick out at 140 or so. Personally, I like a larger margin of safety.
I'd return the regulator and find one rated higher...
All the best,
Peter
I didn't think it would work, that would mean that you didn't need a safety pop off valve because it would blow the regulator before the pop off valve would open. I have looked at all the box stores that sell air compressors in my area and 150 psi was the highest one that I could find. I put a new one on my porter cable compressor and the next time that the contacts stuck it opened the pop off valve instead of blowing the regulator. I have also looked at the local auto parts stores and they don't have them either. I haven't tried the welding supply yet but they might have them, if they don't then maybe my best rout is to call Ingersoll rand and try to get one.
Bob999
Platinum Member
Toy, your post got me curious and I started looking online for air regulators. Most I found did not list what I undersood to be a max pressure rating--rather they had a max pressure that they regulate to. Here is a quote from one I found: "Regulates the air pressure from 0 to 160 PSI to give an even air flow". Obviously to regulate to 160 the supply pressure has to be 160 or higher.
I fully agree with ponytug's comments about safety but I wonder if basically all units will handle the 175 psi of the compressor and the difference is the pressure they will regulate to. I have no tools that use even 160 psi--most max out around 100 psi.
I fully agree with ponytug's comments about safety but I wonder if basically all units will handle the 175 psi of the compressor and the difference is the pressure they will regulate to. I have no tools that use even 160 psi--most max out around 100 psi.
ponytug
Super Member
I agree.
Traditionally, the strategy is to let the compressor store air in a tank at pressure, and then regulate it down to the use pressure. One stored a lot of air at high pressure to deal with surges in demand, and to help remove water.
However, unless you have a tool that needs 150psi (I can't imagine what), or have some use that needs 80 gallons of 150psi air (like putting tires on big earth movers) then running the compressor to 150psi only to regulate down to 100psi is wasting ~50% of the energy. It would be much more energy efficient to have the compressor run from 110-130, and regulate that to the 100psi that you need.
Industrially, one gets a big savings in plant energy use by switching from these old cycling compressors to variable speed compressors that output the required 100psi for process use.
All the best,
Peter
P.S. I would put a good filter on the compressor output and keep an eye on it for awhile. Moving and restarting the compressor might knock free a lot of debris from inside the tank.
Traditionally, the strategy is to let the compressor store air in a tank at pressure, and then regulate it down to the use pressure. One stored a lot of air at high pressure to deal with surges in demand, and to help remove water.
However, unless you have a tool that needs 150psi (I can't imagine what), or have some use that needs 80 gallons of 150psi air (like putting tires on big earth movers) then running the compressor to 150psi only to regulate down to 100psi is wasting ~50% of the energy. It would be much more energy efficient to have the compressor run from 110-130, and regulate that to the 100psi that you need.
Industrially, one gets a big savings in plant energy use by switching from these old cycling compressors to variable speed compressors that output the required 100psi for process use.
All the best,
Peter
P.S. I would put a good filter on the compressor output and keep an eye on it for awhile. Moving and restarting the compressor might knock free a lot of debris from inside the tank.
It would be just fine if the 0 to 150 max pressure rating was on the out put side of the regulator, but if it was the max input rating at 150 psi then you would have a problem. The reason for my concern is that on the porter cable unit when the contactors stuck and it kept running it was the regulator that blew and started leaking air and not the pop off valve, I just barley touched the outside of the pop off valve and it opened up. The pop off valve should have opened up before any damage to anything else in my system, and I believe it was working properly. I believe it was the regulator that was insufficient, just trying to educate myself on what the psi ratings really mean.
cqaigy2
Super Member
I admit i hadn't thought about the ancillary attachments to an air compressor, but i thought the pop off valves were to help insure the tank wouldn't explode.
I also had an air compressor that welded the contacts and didn't notice until i spelled the compressor and noticed the gauge on the unregulated side was up to 300 PSI and the pop off didn't. admittedly the compressor was over 30 years old and one that i scrounged. I replace the pressure contact switch and put a modern pop off valve on.
I also had an air compressor that welded the contacts and didn't notice until i spelled the compressor and noticed the gauge on the unregulated side was up to 300 PSI and the pop off didn't. admittedly the compressor was over 30 years old and one that i scrounged. I replace the pressure contact switch and put a modern pop off valve on.
That is what I believe it is supposed to do to but the regulator should be able to withstand the additional pressure that it takes for the pop off valve to work before the regulator fails. At $40 bucks a pop you can't afford to pop too many of them. I would be satisfied with the 150 psi output to the tools if I knew that it would withstand the 175 psi going into it. I looked on the Ingersoll Rand web site for information about it but all they have is adds trying to sell their compressors and a bunch of junk that is of no value to what I am searching for. I have searched the web asking every way I can think of about air regulators and basically all I get is compressor sell ads. I have looked kobalt air regulators and basically they don't have anything either. I looked at the instructions that comes with the 150psi regulator and it don't tell what the max input pressure is unless it is the 150 psi.
kelloggguy
New member
Compair built quality Kellogg's for about 15 years, and then moved production to Mexico, because they couldn't be competitive in the market using an American made pump. That was a fiasco due to both quality and delivery issues. Compair dropped the line around 1990.
The lubrication system on Kellogg compressors has always been superior to everyone else's splash lube design. Kellogg does not use an oil pump; they never made a pressure lube design. However, they had a patented Ring-flo system that has a ring that positively carries oil from the crankcase, all the way to the top to provide positive oiling where it is needed. They are still made the same way today at our factory in China. These days, pretty much all compressors pumps are built in China, except for IR (India) and a few obscure pumps from Italy. The Kellogg design is still the most robust design on the market today.
Toy, if you got that compressor from the neighbor lady, you should have a good compressor.
hydro2
Gold Member
I have a Kellogg compressor. Its from the 60's. The tank started to leak this summer. It is one strong compressor. The were built somewhere in Pittsburgh. I am hunting an 80 gallon tank now.
I never got it, instead I got an ingersol rand 80 gal two stage compressor. I ran an airtrac drill that used an ingersol rand compressor and it was a good compressor but that was 40 years ago and a lot has changed in that time but it was a good machine. This new compressor was on sale when I got it and so far it has done good.
SpringHollow
Elite Member
That information was interesting - Thanks. I wonder why the others have not switched to that design if it is better than the rest. The patent has to be over by now. Maybe they do not want the expense of redesigning. Gillette had the patents for the basic generator design used by everyone now.
Ken
Ken
SPYDERLK
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Absolutely. I have a Kellogg American 331TV. Its a "tank" - weights over 200 pounds. It is rated 200psi continuous run or 250psi stop/start. Ive never run it above 170 tho. 170 air from a blow gun hurts
, so I ran mine 160/140.My question is, are parts readily available? It has been idle for a long while after our move and I think its going to need valves and springs.
Thanks,
larry
kelloggguy
New member
Absolutely. I have a Kellogg American 331TV. Its a "tank" - weights over 200 pounds. It is rated 200psi continuous run or 250psi stop/start. Ive never run it above 170 tho. 170 air from a blow gun hurts
My question is, are parts readily available? It has been idle for a long while after our move and I think its going to need valves and springs.
Thanks,
larry
Parts should be available; search the net. It may use most of the same parts as a 332. However, that model is obsolete. The only models made today are the 321, 332, 335, 352, 452, and the 462.
