Kid snaps loader arms

[bigdeano]

The problem is that with the bucket tipped way down, the point where the cylinder hooks to the bucket is close to going over center compared to the bucket pivot pin. This gives the bucket tremendous leverage against the cylinder. Even going slow and hitting something solid like a stump puts a huge force on the bucket edge from the momentum of the tractor. That force is multiplied by maybe four or five times and transferred to the cylinders. Go very slow if you have to tip the bucket straight down.

 

[Doofy]

The problem is that with the bucket tipped way down, the point where the cylinder hooks to the bucket is close to going over center compared to the bucket pivot pin. This gives the bucket tremendous leverage against the cylinder. Even going slow and hitting something solid like a stump puts a huge force on the bucket edge from the momentum of the tractor. That force is multiplied by maybe four or five times and transferred to the cylinders. Go very slow if you have to tip the bucket straight down.

I'll just make sure to watch what I do and not over-do. I should use the box blade for a lot of the heavier chores and not depend on the bucket so much. I keep hearing the statement that these TLBs are not Bulldozers. Have to make myself believe it.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Imhinkthe biggest mistake when back dragging (or any other FEL actions) is folks try to go too fast. I take it slow at 2000 RPM and can react when feeling something unmovable. 1500+ HRS on my BX and I don't have the problems others are having, with a lot less HRs. I have yet to have a hydraulic leaks, loose/lost bolts, bent or broken parts. Yeah it is banged up and no longer looks like the garage queens I see posted; but , it sure does perform. I bought it to work, not look, at and I definately don't baby it. I find I can do most tasks at 2000-2200 RPMs, That is the point of full hyd pressure. It has saved me way more than its cost.

Ron

 

[4570Man]

Back dragging with the bucket at 90 degrees is a sure fire way to bend a cylinder. I got lucky and never bent a cylinder doing it until I learned better. I've seen it done though. IMO back dragging with the bucket at 45 degrees or less is pretty safe. I think the manual says like 15 degrees but I exceed that all the time with no damage. The time when my buddy busted his cylinder by back dragging it bent the barrel and rod. leaving him little choice except buy a $600 Kubota cylinder. I bent a loader lift cylinder. Somehow a stick got in the loader and applied sideways force to the cylinder and bent it. In hindsight I should have just bought a OEM replacement rod for about $300. It ended up costing me more than that having the hydraulic shop fix it.

 

[Doofy]

Back dragging with the bucket at 90 degrees is a sure fire way to bend a cylinder. I got lucky and never bent a cylinder doing it until I learned better. I've seen it done though. IMO back dragging with the bucket at 45 degrees or less is pretty safe. I think the manual says like 15 degrees but I exceed that all the time with no damage. The time when my buddy busted his cylinder by back dragging it bent the barrel and rod. leaving him little choice except buy a $600 Kubota cylinder. I bent a loader lift cylinder. Somehow a stick got in the loader and applied sideways force to the cylinder and bent it. In hindsight I should have just bought a OEM replacement rod for about $300. It ended up costing me more than that having the hydraulic shop fix it.

All good advice. Thanks

 

[tjkubota93]

FWIW, I too thought Messik's response was a little harsh, considering the circumstances, and the OP stated he has some difficult saying exactly what he meant, in his title.
Coming from a non-dealer the comment might have been less taken as a criticism, so I can see both sides of the argument.
Nonetheless, I do feel there might have been a better way to apprise users of the backdrag 'rules'.

I too learned the hard way about backdragging- but did not suffer cylinder damage. I did bend the 1/2 moon shaped pieces on the front of my first tractor, a DK-35 Kioti.
They were replaced under warranty, then I bent them again. Dealer welded support bars on them. I bent them again, and decided to trade up within a year of the first, and traded to a DK-40. This solved a bunch of my issues, stronger loader, etc. Cost me about 8K to move up, loss on used 1st one and cost to go to bigger/newer model.
I'm more than happy now, and have learned its a tractor, not a dozer - who knew?! :confused3:

I really thought the "thou shall not..." comment was funny. I don't believe it was meant to be demeaning or otherwise offensive. And I've never bought from messicks. I can always beat their price by googling the part #.

 

[mcfarmall]

I really thought the "thou shall not..." comment was funny. I don't believe it was meant to be demeaning or otherwise offensive.

Me too! For the tender butts and snowflakes in the crowd, I have placed the disclaimer shown below on every post I make. No need for a follow up explanation with this. \l/

 

[Doofy]

Me too! For the tender butts and snowflakes in the crowd, I have placed the disclaimer shown below on every post I make. No need for a follow up explanation with this. \l/

I enjoy a little sarcasm with my morning joe. Nothing said should be taken personally unless you are a dillweed and need to hear it.