Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
Gizmo36 said:
Here's a link to Monroe Tufline's serious disks.
http://www.monroetufline.com/pdf/Monroe Tufline Offset.pdf
Note the weights and widths just to show how much a 7' disk can weigh without added weights.
King Kutter heavy-duty disk
- Thread starter PAMike
- Start date
- Views: 22868
Here's a link to Monroe Tufline's serious disks.
http://www.monroetufline.com/pdf/Monroe Tufline Offset.pdf
Note the weights and widths just to show how much a 7' disk can weigh without added weights.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
The determining factor(s) of how a disc performs is "pounds per disc" (over-all weight of disc, divided by number of blades) and disc spacing. With most offset disc's, they have the blades spaced 9" to 11" apart. Conventional disc harrows will usually be 7" to 9" spacings. All those things play into how deep they'll cut. In general, most offset discs will be set at a more aggressive angle too. Off set disc's are intended as a primary tillage tool. A disc harrow CAN be used for primary tillage in certain conditions, but usually with limited success. Generally speaking, a disc harrow with 7" spaced disc blades will be a "finishing disc", designed to leave a smooth, level seedbed.
Ground speed has a great deal to do with how a disc functions too. Too slow and you don't get the "soil action" it takes to break up clods. Too fast and they tend to want to ride up on top of the ground. Most modern day "AG" disc's work best around 5 to 6 mph.
You'll also find that uses for and terminoligy for a disc is a regional thing. In all my years, I've never heard anyone from my area refer to a disc as a "disc harrow". A disc is a disc, and a harrow is something you drag BEHIND a disc.
Most of todays "economy disc's" (If you can say that with todays prices) are a compromise at best. They're light enough for a small tractor to pick up. That hurts their overall performance, regardless of angle or disc spacing.
Often times you'll hear people recommend discing "multiple passes" to get to the desired depth. While that is true to some extent, remember that a disc also COMPACTS soil BELOW the depth it's cutting. (Just like a plow leaves a "plow pan" or compacted layer below its working depth) The more times you go over a field with a disc, the more you create a layer of compaction. That's why there are differet types of disc's. You want the job done in one or two trips over the field if at all possible. Beyond that you create as many issues as you correct.
Plows and disc's were the norm for decades of conventional farming. Nowdays the move is to no-till where conditions permit. Freeze/thaw cycles improve soil structure, doing naturally what farmers tried to accomplish with heavy, fuel guzzling equipment. In the areas where no till doesn't work as well, chisel plows, field cultivators, deep rippers, mulch tillers, disc rippers, and "zone builders" are rapidly pushing plows and disc's into extinction. Most new discs sold nowdays are for "hobbiests".
Ground speed has a great deal to do with how a disc functions too. Too slow and you don't get the "soil action" it takes to break up clods. Too fast and they tend to want to ride up on top of the ground. Most modern day "AG" disc's work best around 5 to 6 mph.
You'll also find that uses for and terminoligy for a disc is a regional thing. In all my years, I've never heard anyone from my area refer to a disc as a "disc harrow". A disc is a disc, and a harrow is something you drag BEHIND a disc.
Most of todays "economy disc's" (If you can say that with todays prices) are a compromise at best. They're light enough for a small tractor to pick up. That hurts their overall performance, regardless of angle or disc spacing.
Often times you'll hear people recommend discing "multiple passes" to get to the desired depth. While that is true to some extent, remember that a disc also COMPACTS soil BELOW the depth it's cutting. (Just like a plow leaves a "plow pan" or compacted layer below its working depth) The more times you go over a field with a disc, the more you create a layer of compaction. That's why there are differet types of disc's. You want the job done in one or two trips over the field if at all possible. Beyond that you create as many issues as you correct.
Plows and disc's were the norm for decades of conventional farming. Nowdays the move is to no-till where conditions permit. Freeze/thaw cycles improve soil structure, doing naturally what farmers tried to accomplish with heavy, fuel guzzling equipment. In the areas where no till doesn't work as well, chisel plows, field cultivators, deep rippers, mulch tillers, disc rippers, and "zone builders" are rapidly pushing plows and disc's into extinction. Most new discs sold nowdays are for "hobbiests".
Thanks for the replies guys, a lot of good info. here!
My grandfather found a Landpride 3 pt. disk for sale that is about 6 years old for $1800. He said it was in good shape and the owner said he hasn't used it much. I believe it is 8 ft wide and is the DH25 model on their website. According to their website it weighs 1143#. It also has scrapers which is a plus. Anyone know about the quality of Landpride equipment and would $1800 be a good price? The owner said that was half of what he paid new. Thanks
Land Pride Disc Harrows
My grandfather found a Landpride 3 pt. disk for sale that is about 6 years old for $1800. He said it was in good shape and the owner said he hasn't used it much. I believe it is 8 ft wide and is the DH25 model on their website. According to their website it weighs 1143#. It also has scrapers which is a plus. Anyone know about the quality of Landpride equipment and would $1800 be a good price? The owner said that was half of what he paid new. Thanks
Land Pride Disc Harrows
flusher
Super Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2005
- Messages
- 7,572
- Location
- Sacramento
- Tractor
- Getting old. Sold the ranch. Sold the tractors. Moved back to the city.
andrewj said:
I agree. Don't overload your rototiller with extra weight. If you're trying to rototill virgin ground you need to plow it first.
I have a 4-ft wide Yanmar RS1200 rototiller that I use on my 21-hp Kubota B7510HST. I'm finally starting to landscape around my new house (moved in a year ago). I'm using my KK middle buster plow (XB middle buster/subsoiler combo model from TSC) to loosen up the soil prior to rototilling. This morning there were several hundred blackbirds pecking away at the weed seeds and other things in the plowed area.
Gizmo36
Platinum Member
napabavarian
Silver Member
andrewj said:
Wish I was closer! I'd just cast 1000# of concrete on the top
and be done with it 
