Kioti No start

[ra5451]

I have a kioti dk45. I was experiencing a no start so I checked the 30 amp fuse by the starter and it was blown. The dash lights would still go on even though the fuse was blown. I went to the house to get a replacement fuse. When I returned i turned the key and NOTHING? No dash lights. I have power at battery and starter. Any help would be appreciated

 

[k0ua]

Hm... my schematic shows it as a 60 amp slow blow fuse. and I don't see how anything could work if that fuse is open. Yes you would still have power at the starter solenoid as it does not run thru this fuse.

 

[ra5451]

K0ua...Even after installing the fuse No lights on dash

Hm... my schematic shows it as a 60 amp slow blow fuse. and I don't see how anything could work if that fuse is open. Yes you would still have power at the starter solenoid as it does not run thru this fuse.

 

[k0ua]

K0ua...Even after installing the fuse No lights on dash

Ok.. fuses blow for a reason, and that is excessive current run thu it at one time. Did your replacement fuse hold? and what value did you put in it.. my manual say 60 amp not 30. Your excessive current problem could be intermittant, of course. I take it you do not have a workshop manual. What about tools? do you have a good Voltmeter and know how to use it.? How are your scientific method troubleshooting skills.? What I am asking is have you ever done this kind of work before, and do you have an understanding of what to check for and how to go about it, and the tools to do it with? Do you have a good understanding of Ohm's law, and the relationship between Voltage, Current and Resistance.? I know this sounds like I am just asking a bunch of stupid questions, but I am trying to get a feel for your experience and what you have to work with.

James K0UA

 

[rmorey]

James, I think you scared him off!

 

[k0ua]

James, I think you scared him off!

Well I didn't mean to, but troubleshooting requires some knowledge of basic principles and some tools. The biggest tool is the schematic, and the knowledge to read it. You can't just pop a fuse in and hope that fixes it.. the fuse blew for a reason. Half the time electrical problems are intermittent, which just adds to the frustration. I hope he comes back, and I will try to help him, and others feel free to jump in too, but it is 10 times harder to fix a tractor thru a computer than to stand beside it with voltmeter and schematic in hand. I have done this "remote trouble shooting" for years and it never gets any easier.

James K0UA

 

[ra5451]

Ok...I'm back.....Real busy....First of all I do not know ohms law....I have logical diagnostic experience...#2...I have a ohm reader but i'm not an expert on using it...Now that that's out of the way...Here's what I have done

Problem...The ignition will not turn on the DK45. When I turn the key 2 clicks i should see the lights on the dash come on...They don't

Tried these: I jumped the starter and started the unit. Everything runs, but the dash lights come on intermittently. I can't use the PTO because there is no electric to the controls. I have to engage the clutch and let it out to stop. The ignition wont stop it.
I replaced the ignition switch and I'm still having the same problem

 

[murphy1244]

check all your grounds

 

[Coyote machine]

You haven't verified anything yet. What voltage do you have at the battery with the tractor OFF?
What does it read when you turn the key to start? Have you cleaned the ground at the frame where the cable from the battery connects?
Have you checked your fuse box for any blown fuses? Corrosion.
Number of hours on tractor? Age of battery? Stored in or outside?
Any mice around the tractor's 'home'?
You in VT?
Don't replace anything else until instructed by us genius's!:laughing:

 

[kraftykeltic]

Ground to frame more than likely is good, sound like a loose or corroded connection from main power to ignition switch. The fact that you can "short out the solenoid" and start tractor tells you that. Mice or squirrels may be part of your problem.
Ohms law does not come into play. It is easier to troubleshoot this type of problem with a voltage probe, the type with a light on it. You can see where you need to have volts. the light should light if voltage is present. I would make sure you have voltage to key switch first. May have shorted wire in harness.

 

[Coyote machine]

Ground to frame more than likely is good, sound like a loose or corroded connection from main power to ignition switch. The fact that you can "short out the solenoid" and start tractor tells you that. Mice or squirrels may be part of your problem.
Ohms law does not come into play. It is easier to troubleshoot this type of problem with a voltage probe, the type with a light on it. You can see where you need to have volts. the light should light if voltage is present. I would make sure you have voltage to key switch first. May have shorted wire in harness.

DK-series tractors are prone to bad ground connections at frame bolt. This needs to be ruled out on any DK that is having electrical issues. Assuming anything with electrical issues is asking for trouble. Ohm's Law applies to anything one is doing regarding a circuit's resistance. Yes a test light can be handy, but a VOM is way more effective and can perform many more tests of any electrical system.
Fuse block should be thoroughly checked out front side and back as well as key switch, battery state of charge, load test, and specific gravity/per cell, based on age, etc.
There would seem to be at least one open circuit possibly to the ignition switch, and possibly others to the rest of the electrical system. The starting circuit seems to be isolated from the harness, since the ig switch cannot turn on the lights or crank the motor. Additionally, even after jumping the starter to make the engine run, the PTO switch is also isolated from the harness and non functioning.
We need more info about this tractor as already requested.

 

[ra5451]

Coyote...I'm glad that I have all you genius's helping me... I will have more answers in the am...I'm not in VT....Is there electromagnetic static that is produced within the VT boarders that would cause this problem ....There are mice where I store it under a lean to. I see no mice damage though. more to come tomorrow...Thankx for responding

 

[murphy1244]

Darn mices can play havoc on a wiring harness

 

[Coyote machine]

If your tractor is available to mice they can get into very small holes and do immense damage.
Has your tractor been in water, a stream or any really wet area recently? Under the floor pan there is a block of connectors that are susceptible to moisture, etc. (On left side under floor by frame members). Make sure they are all connected solidly in addition to other things mentioned already.
VT is a free zone for electrical interference- none allowed:laughing:

 

[ra5451]

OK..OK..OK....
1. I took the ground of the frame, cleaned and put it back on...(no Change)
2. The battery measured 15.75 with the switch on and off
3) All the fuses are ok
4) I tested 2 relays that were on the firewall (OK)
5) I disconnected the connector under the floorboard as suggested...See the pic attached....
6) Next steps? How do i replace connector?

BTW Coyote...You're a Genius :thumbsup:

 

[murphy1244]

Your battery is at 15.75 volts?

 

[lilranch2001]

OK..OK..OK....
1. I took the ground of the frame, cleaned and put it back on...(no Change)
2. The battery measured 15.75 with the switch on and off
3) All the fuses are ok
4) I tested 2 relays that were on the firewall (OK)
5) I disconnected the connector under the floorboard as suggested...See the pic attached....
6) Next steps? How do i replace connector?

BTW Coyote...You're a Genius :thumbsup:

Wow, that is a mess!

 

[murphy1244]

OK..OK..OK....
1. I took the ground of the frame, cleaned and put it back on...(no Change)
2. The battery measured 15.75 with the switch on and off
3) All the fuses are ok
4) I tested 2 relays that were on the firewall (OK)
5) I disconnected the connector under the floorboard as suggested...See the pic attached....
6) Next steps? How do i replace connector?

BTW Coyote...You're a Genius :thumbsup:

clean it with contact cleaner and wire brush, grease it with dielectric grease

 

[k0ua]

I would try to clean it first . It will be tedious to try to clean both sides, and get all the corrosion off. then a good dielectric grease. If that fails, then try to find and buy the connector. and splice in both sides. This is a major undertaking using waterproof (grease filled) splices. Oh, by the way, Disconnect battery first before doing anything.. just saying.

 

[ra5451]

BTW...My meter is off