Kioti to Kubota Model Comparison

   / Kioti to Kubota Model Comparison #21  
My "today's" mentality leans toward keeping my Kioti tractor with a near future tire change and weight fluids in them. I use a back weight from Titan Implements but really need tire fluid too.
My thoughts on Kubota vs Kioti- I had an L275 (heavy frame 27 HP) for 20 years with shuttle shift but no tire loading. It performed flawlessly even with an oversized Allied Loader. It was sold (marriage breakup) and my next tractor, International 254 (heavy frame about 20 HP with tires loaded) with 10 HP less than the Kubota was amazing, partly because the tires were loaded. Next upgrade was to Kioti DS4510 and this was a great performer. It was used mostly as a landscape tractor and cutting firewood and building 2 miles of woods road including stump removal. Finally the last upgrade to a Kioti RX 7320 with tires loaded.
These tractors have taught me that loading the tires on your tractor will markedly improve the ability of any tractor to push or pull with the added traction and the stability is much improved on sloped ground. Even the 20 HP International would bring home a cord of firewood on the back box + loader and another cord or two yarded behind the tractor, albeit slowly in gear 2 out of 8. The two Kiotis with extra power were much faster pulling the same wood load.

So HP is much less important in a tractor than tractor weight. Don't load tires with salt, that will rot your rims. Beet juice is far superior for tire loading. All working tractors should have tires loaded if heavy work is their purpose. Tractors used for pushing snow or mowing will benefit from hydrostatic transmissions, if you don't mind sacrificing 30% of your HP for this easy forward/reverse action, but if you are working the tractor, shuttle shift is large improvement. My RX 7320 has mechanical syncro-mesh shuttle but the clutch action is still required. Within any of the three ranges, you can shift up or down while still moving with no grind. Changing transmission range requires stopping. This is near the convenience of hydrostatic with no power loss. Kioti also has the option of a hydraulic shuttle shift that works well with no clutch depression required but initially it was slow before they changed the algorithm to streamline the shift. It would be a good option now.

Note that Kubota mechanical shift tractors use a 2% increase in front tire speed when in 4WD to ensure the tractor handling performs well and this 2% works perfectly. For some reason, Kioti uses a 7% front tire speed increase which also works well, but at the expense of the transmission struggling a bit because of the front/rear speed difference. Your Kubota will drive along on solid ground with little struggle with 4WD engaged, whereas the Kioti will whine and struggle a bit on hard ground and this may possibly result in decreased front end gear reliability over thousands of hours. I questioned Kioti top dogs about this extreme difference in front/rear speed and they thought it was necessary to help the tractor pull around steep turns. I would prefer the 2% design of Kubota but my RX 7320 with no factory cab ($44,000) was $10,000 cheaper than the equivalent Kubota.

Regarding the regen of new tractors, Kioti seems to have one of the best designs. If I run my RX7320 above 1500 RPM it will never demand a regen. Not sure about other brands or models. Regarding tractor cabs, you can spend $10,000 extra for a factory cab or you can do your homework and build a cab for a grand or two, if you have or know someone with welding skills. Your homebuilt cab can be a foot shorter in height to allow entrance into a garage door entrance. My RX7320 fits under an 8' high door. The lack of air conditioning or heater is quite acceptable in my Canadian climate of typical -20F to +85F temperature range. The entry door and back window are removed in the summer months and often stay removed in the winter. Us Canadians know how to dress for cold weather and the open air eliminates the window fogging problem completely. I've driven factory cabs where the defroster was totally inadequate in cold damp weather and the doors needed to stay open.

Bottom line, I love the reasonably priced Kioti. It is a great road builder. Set the loader for a 2" slice out front, and drop the 7' box drag to take another inch or two and the 7320 will move a 2 foot road hump into a hollow very quickly with no struggle. It will remove a healthy 1' stump with some preliminary perimeter digging. For larger stumps it's best to push the tree over first before cutting. Be careful with any 4WD tractor when removing stumps. A full lift on the bucket will exert tons of down pressure on the front end and pushing while lifting can strip out front end gears. There is no shear pin mechanism and something has to give when deep treaded agriculture tires are turning in good traction.

One of the most difficult decisions in a tractor purchase is power/traction requirements but be assured, the bigger the tractor, the easier the job will be for tough jobs. Blowing and mowing are easily done with a medium powered hydrostatic tractor so they are the best choice. If you are going to work your tractor under heavy load like ground shaping or stump pulling, get as big a geared tractor as you can afford. Note that a self-leveling bucket will add convenience but it also adds some loss of rigidity in the bucket which can be important in landscaping with the bucket. In hindsight, I would have preferred a non-self-leveling bucket on the 7320.

Kubota is a great tractor if you can afford it and if you don't mind dealers who have little respect for "your" money. In my experience, Kioti dealers are much nicer. Having said that, I might buy a Kubota if their long-established dealer is nearby and their competition dealers are hours away. But first, one has to examine the performance of each individual model of any brand tractor. All brands have good and bad models. Never buy any tractor without detailed due diligence. TractorByNet is a great resource.
 
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   / Kioti to Kubota Model Comparison
  • Thread Starter
#22  
VG post above.
Mostly stuff I already knew to be honest excepting the Kubota vs. Kioti 4wd design factors.
In recent online look/see's @ tractor tires in my tractor's size I'll often see a rear that I like the tread design a lot then find that there's no front that matches in the same design and correct size. This seems to be true in most every tire I look at. Maybe this tire subject deserves a new thread as I don't find much in searches?
 
   / Kioti to Kubota Model Comparison #23  
VG post above.
Mostly stuff I already knew to be honest excepting the Kubota vs. Kioti 4wd design factors.
In recent online look/see's @ tractor tires in my tractor's size I'll often see a rear that I like the tread design a lot then find that there's no front that matches in the same design and correct size. This seems to be true in most every tire I look at. Maybe this tire subject deserves a new thread as I don't find much in searches?
 
   / Kioti to Kubota Model Comparison
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Thanks! Do you know what tire you choose for the front when so many rears are not made in the matching tread style and original size? And yet another factor is how the mfg. chose to set up the sizes for a certain model to match their ground speed criteria.
Honestly between having worked in a tire plant in skilled trades (knowing tires pretty intimately from my apprenticeship there) and having been a vehicle mechanic & teacher I'm heads above many on tires but not found a combo of F&R for my current tractor-if I keep it.
Many of the rears sold now don't have matches in OE sizes for my Kioti up front. It came new with R4's and I might go to Ag tires. When I get more time I'll skim the tire sticky, thanks again.
 
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   / Kioti to Kubota Model Comparison #25  
Nice one
 
   / Kioti to Kubota Model Comparison #26  
Thanks! Do you know what tire you choose for the front when so many rears are not made in the matching tread style and original size? And yet another factor is how the mfg. chose to set up the sizes for a certain model to match their ground speed criteria.
Honestly between having worked in a tire plant in skilled trades (knowing tires pretty intimately from my apprenticeship there) and having been a vehicle mechanic & teacher I'm heads above many on tires but not found a combo of F&R for my current tractor-if I keep it.
Many of the rears sold now don't have matches in OE sizes for my Kioti up front. It came new with R4's and I might go to Ag tires. When I get more time I'll skim the tire sticky, thanks again.
You can not replace a R4 with a R1 using the same rim. R1s are in general slimmer. That's why you possibly can't find a front tire in that size.
I once plaid around with the idea to buy a JD 4720 and put R1 tires on in the width of turf tires. I found tire sizes that would satisfy the front to rear ratio but not the same thread. Still R1. One of them was listed in the manufacturer's portfolio but not available on the NA market.
 
   / Kioti to Kubota Model Comparison #27  
Clutch may have been damaged (at 365 engine hours) using the bucket for digging soil for fill material. I got pretty aggressive and noticed the clutch friction lining smelling. I was only using the buckets edge to catch maybe 10-12" of mostly loose weather material then gradually would gather enough to fill the bucket for a trip to a nearby build site.

If you believe bucket insertion caused clutch damage, buy a bucket "digging" tooth bar such as a Piranha brand. Tooth bar will reduce stress on tractor clutch and springy, weakly supported FEL arms.

PIRANHA VIDEOS: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=piranha+tooth+bar+for+tractor

Better to collect material with a box blade or rear/angle blade, then transport loose, collected material in the bucket. You either use the appropriate implement or replace the clutch periodically.

I'm thinking about a means to gain a bit stronger FEL w/o moving up too far in tractor cost or size.

Heavy work is for the Three Point Hitch, not the FEL.
 
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   / Kioti to Kubota Model Comparison
  • Thread Starter
#28  
You can not replace a R4 with a R1 using the same rim. R1s are in general slimmer. That's why you possibly can't find a front tire in that size.
I once plaid around with the idea to buy a JD 4720 and put R1 tires on in the width of turf tires. I found tire sizes that would satisfy the front to rear ratio but not the same thread. Still R1. One of them was listed in the manufacturer's portfolio but not available on the NA market.
My tractor (and other Kioti models) are sold with the same rims, while they are fitted new with R1, R14 or AG1 tires.
 
   / Kioti to Kubota Model Comparison
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Clutch may have been damaged (at 365 engine hours) using the bucket for digging soil for fill material. I got pretty aggressive and noticed the clutch friction lining smelling. I was only using the buckets edge to catch maybe 10-12" of mostly loose weather material then gradually would gather enough to fill the bucket for a trip to a nearby build site.

If you believe bucket insertion caused clutch damage, buy a bucket "digging" tooth bar such as a Piranha brand. Tooth bar will reduce stress on tractor clutch and springy, weakly supported FEL arms.

PIRANHA VIDEOS: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=piranha+tooth+bar+for+tractor

Better to collect material with a box blade or rear/angle blade, then transport loose, collected material in the bucket. You either use the appropriate implement or replace the clutch periodically.

I'm thinking about a means to gain a bit stronger FEL w/o moving up too far in tractor cost or size.

Heavy work is for the Three Point Hitch, not the FEL.
I was using the corner of the bucket to dig into the small shelf of soil along one side of my dirt woods roads to borrow some fill material. Once I'd collected a bucketful I transported to my build site. It was not taxing the tractor that much as it were. A back blade or a box scraper, both of which I have, don't work for the position the material was located in this case. I knew what worked...
IMO, the bucket job was not a cause of damaged clutch as I look back, it was when I noticed some slippage and thus the smell. If you cannot dig a bit of soil with what's a 5,000# machine then somethings off? Fact is that tractor has a small clutch that also fits at least a dozen or so various brands/models of similar sized tractors.
As for using a 3pt hitch to handle logs, Not seen that done much and hardly logical. At my age and given my tractor experience I may not know it all but I have been around the block just a ways.
 
   / Kioti to Kubota Model Comparison #30  
My tractor (and other Kioti models) are sold with the same rims, while they are fitted new with R1, R14 or AG1 tires.
That's true. Pretty much every tractor sold has tire options. But R1s require different rims than R4s. Turf tires, as far as I know, go on the same rim as R4s.
 
 
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