Kubota B21 stuck on side of mountain - stop solenoid issue?

[VTsteader]

Thanks for the replies! Considering the seal is compromised on the solenoid and that my local dealer has one in stock, I am going to replace it. I only hope that that seal was the cause and it's not something else. I read elsewhere that a relay switch could be shot and be sending constant power to the solenoid, frying it. Does anyone know how I could make sure that isn't happening? Luckily the tractor is in a safe and out of the way spot where I can work on it and I am hoping to get the part tomorrow but there is loads of rain in the forecast for the next few days so we'll see when I can get it in. Thanks again.

 

[LouNY]

If your tractor solenoid is the type that is energized to stop.
If you are getting constant power to the stop solenoid your tractor will not run.
If it is getting constant power after you shutdown it will be getting hot with the key off.
Either way with constant power being supplied your battery will run down after awhile and the solenoid will be quite hot till it burns out.

 

[doneill127]

Doesn’t seem like energized to stop is very fail safe. If you cook the relay,wire, fuse or solenoid coil or the alt/battery bite the dust you can’t shut the tractor off? Think I prefer energize to start.

 

[LouNY]

Doesn’t seem like energized to stop is very fail safe. If you cook the relay,wire, fuse or solenoid coil or the alt/battery bite the dust you can’t shut the tractor off? Think I prefer energize to start.

If you look over your tractor you may be able to find the linkage ahead of time to pull or push to shut it down,
most of the larger tractors that I run are energized to run on one of them the hold in coil has gotten weak so we have a bungee strap assisting it.
Last year on one of them the relay that energizes it went bad so we ended up pulling it to the run position to shut the tractor down we just opened a side panel and gave the linkage a push and held it till she stopped.
I actually prefer the older style shut offs when you had to physically pull a cable or rod or lift a throttle lever to close all the way to shut down a diesel.

And then my Dyna-hoe has one cable for a normal shutdown that cuts off the fuel, and a second emergency stop which when pulled trips a butterfly door that shuts off the air to the super charger (Detroit 4-53).


Either system works they can both have problems, they can both be solved.

 

[VTsteader]

Sooo, this afternoon I was able to install the new stop solenoid and nothing changed. I didn't get a chance to check anything else before the rain came down again. The original part was compromised so it wasn't a waste to install it.

Not sure where to look next. I'm going to inspect and probably replace the fuel filter and go from there. I'm not convinced that's the right path due to the white smoke and smell that came when this all started, but it is needed maintenance before winter anyway.

I'll check for power to the solenoid as well. Any thoughts would be welcomed!

When I turn the key it sounds it wants to go but stops immediately when I release the key to the run position...

 

[CalG]

Sooo, this afternoon I was able to install the new stop solenoid and nothing changed. I didn't get a chance to check anything else before the rain came down again. The original part was compromised so it wasn't a waste to install it.

Not sure where to look next. I'm going to inspect and probably replace the fuel filter and go from there. I'm not convinced that's the right path due to the white smoke and smell that came when this all started, but it is needed maintenance before winter anyway.

I'll check for power to the solenoid as well. Any thoughts would be welcomed!

When I turn the key it sounds it wants to go but stops immediately when I release the key to the run position...

If it is an energize to close valve, Just disconnect the electrical leads. (Two wire)

There "Should be" a mechanical shut down lever near the solenoid, If there is not, that's stupid! ;-)

 

[D2Cat]

I would suggest getting the engine running before opening up the fuel system. That could allow air to impede the starting, but you won't know what it is at that time. Work on one system at a time.

 

[VTsteader]

I would suggest getting the engine running before opening up the fuel system. That could allow air to impede the starting, but you won't know what it is at that time. Work on one system at a time.

Good idea, but how do I know for sure it's not the fuel?

I've never checked for electrical issues before so this should be interesting.

 

[VTsteader]

If it is an energize to close valve, Just disconnect the electrical leads. (Two wire)

There "Should be" a mechanical shut down lever near the solenoid, If there is not, that's stupid! ;-)

It's a three wire solenoid. Not sure about a mechanical shutdown lever? What am I looking for?

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Sooo, this afternoon I was able to install the new stop solenoid and nothing changed. I didn't get a chance to check anything else before the rain came down again. The original part was compromised so it wasn't a waste to install it.

Not sure where to look next. I'm going to inspect and probably replace the fuel filter and go from there. I'm not convinced that's the right path due to the white smoke and smell that came when this all started, but it is needed maintenance before winter anyway.

I'll check for power to the solenoid as well. Any thoughts would be welcomed!

When I turn the key it sounds it wants to go but stops immediately when I release the key to the run position...

Provide pictures of the old, new, and connection points. That might help this arm chair electrical diagnosis. Do you have the WSM so you can trace out the circuits. $100 takes away a lot of frustration.

Ron