Kubota b2630 will not start

[PapaPerk]

I checked the solenoid. Took the starter off and bench tested it. The solenoid spun out the Bendix and turned the starter. The starter does not continue to spin after I disconnect power but the tractor still runs. I guess if I perpetually want to hot wire it to get it started everything is cool. Thanks for the suggestion. This is like a jigsaw puzzle with one piece missing.

Yeah that's a weird problem. If a safety switch was on you would think the tractor would turn off after hot wire is removed. Hmmmm

 

[Bigkrank]

Switch on rear end being bad lets you jump solenoid and it stays running after jumper wire removed.

 

[inukeu2]

Yeah I kind of thought that too. I called the local Kubota dealer and the service tech said it sounds like I have either a bad ignition switch or OPC controller. That was the conclusion I came to at about eleven o'clock last night. I ordered an ignition switch at $60 it will be here wednesday. I will check that out and see if it works. The OPC controller will be $160 plush shipping and tax. I'd like to not order that unless I know that is the part I need. Of course it would probably cost me that much in diagnostic charges in the service department at the dealer.

I called Messicks this morning and the service guy there is supposed to be getting back to me if there is something he comes across. They are extremely helpful and if they can't come up with a solution I don't know where to turn next. Thanks for all of your suggestions. I guess it is time to pony up some money and see what shakes out. Thanks for your help guys.

 

[inukeu2]

Switch on rear end being bad lets you jump solenoid and it stays running after jumper wire removed.

Are you talking about the pto position switch? It sits on top of the rear differential under the seat? I had to remove the kick panel to get to it. I checked it and it was ok. I know the safety switches are working because with the key in the on position you can engage the pto and a second later the safety switch clicks at the fromnt of the tractor. The same with the rocker push it fwd/rev and a second later the click is heard. Move the lever/rocker back to position and another click to notify you that the switch is satisfied. HMMM

 

[jhoward000]

Any update on this? My B2920 started doing this exact same thing this weekend. It's a real puzzler!

 

[inukeu2]

No update. I have wasted A LOT of time and money on this. I replaced the starter relay, the OPC and the ignition switch. Each was replaced individually. I eventually just ran a jumper wire from the back of the ignition switch down to the starter solinoid. It starts and runs as it should. All of the safety switches are just over-ridden. I will re-address this sometime when I have down time. Right now is work outside time and I need my tractor. I would take this to the dealer but I called both service departments and they sounded more clueless than me! Start with a jumper wire and you will make your headache go away in the short term. Then you can try different solutions one at a time.

I was just tired of having my tractor torn apart for three weeks.

 

[jhoward000]

Thanks for the update. I'll let you know if I figure anything out. Mine is behaving exactly as you describe with a couple of apparent differences:

Sometimes I can slowly work the hydro pedal while holding the switch in the start position and it will suddenly crank while I'm working the pedal towards neutral. It seems to work better going from reverse towards neutral. The key word is "sometimes". Sometimes I can get it to start fairly quickly, sometimes I have to rock/manipulate the pedal for a long time, and other times it won't work and I just give up. Lever/clutch/brake positions have no effect on the problem.

The other difference is that now it will always go dead when I get off the seat, regardless of any lever/clutch/brake positions, etc. But when I get back on the seat, it will not start unless I work the hydro pedal as described above.

It's really strange and inconsistent, but in my case it makes me think there is a safety switch issue someplace. I haven't had a chance to check switches yet, but I'll start with anything related to the hydro-neutral position and the PTO neutral position.

We may end up having a different cause at the end of the day, but the symptoms are awfully similar. I only have 105 hours on the machine, but it's out of warranty due to time. I'll update the thread if I figure anything out just in case it helps anyone.

 

[inukeu2]

Wow yeah that sounds really similar. I tried rocking the switch back and forth while starting and got nothing. There are several things that lead me to believe this is not a safety switch.
1) the battery light does not come on when I turn the key to the first position. I had in the past had my foot sitting on the treadle when trying to start and they battery light was still on. Same with the PTO lever being bumped, the battery light still came on.
2) I removed each of the safety switches and tested them with the ohm meter. In the open and closed position they read continuity or not as they should.
3) When I removed the OPC the fuel pump safety switch would not click but it does when it is on the tractor and the key is turned to the first position.

For you (as if I know what I am taking about) I would first try to jumper that treadle safety switch. It sure sounds funny that it may or may not crank depending on position.
If you take the dash off it is easy to find the 12v wire that runs in series from all of the safety switches. It is red with a black stripe and can be found at the back of the OPC. Or you can check it at each of the switches. It's easier to check it at the back of the OPC because if it is 12v all switches are satisfied.

Lastly it may help to get your hands on the WSM manual for your b2920. I found a pdf version for my tractor on the web and found a european version. It's not the right year and some things are different but for the most part it explains everything in detail right down to pictures and wire colors and diagrams.

Is your battery light coming on at the console with the key in the first position?

Hey I don't want to revel in your misfortune but it's nice to know there is somebody else swimming in the rio de caca as Saul Goodman would say.

Cheers

 

[PrairieSoul]

Thanks for the update. I'll let you know if I figure anything out. Mine is behaving exactly as you describe with a couple of apparent differences:

The other difference is that now it will always go dead when I get off the seat, regardless of any lever/clutch/brake positions, etc. But when I get back on the seat, it will not start unless I work the hydro pedal as described above.

It's really strange and inconsistent, but in my case it makes me think there is a safety switch issue someplace. I haven't had a chance to check switches yet, but I'll start with anything related to the hydro-neutral position and the PTO neutral position.

We may end up having a different cause at the end of the day, but the symptoms are awfully similar. I only have 105 hours on the machine, but it's out of warranty due to time. I'll update the thread if I figure anything out just in case it helps anyone.

I had this problem. It is the switch on the hydro pedal. The reason it always goes dead when you get off the seat is the hydro pedal switch is either stuck, out of adjustment or defective ( acting like the pedal is depressed ) and the seat safety switch shuts it off like it is supposed to.

I had to readjust my switch ( two threaded nuts ) as it somehow moved. But later I started having the same problems because the lever that operates the switch was not sliding properly.

This youtube video gives a good description of how to lubricate the pedal switch.

Kubota b3200 sticking forward pedal - YouTube

 

[jhoward000]

I had time to take a look earlier this afternoon and I'm glad to say that I solved my problem. I just saw PrairieSoul's reply a few minutes ago and he has it right. My hydro neutral indicator switch was out of adjustment in its mount. The shaft that depresses the switch would not quite push the switch in far enough, but would sometimes because it was right at the threshold. The switch itself was fine.

I have attached pictures of the switch BEFORE and AFTER adjustment, as well as a picture of the switch unmounted. As you can see, the AFTER picture has a few more threads on the right side, which shows how much closer the switch is to the shaft (on the right) after I adjusted it. It was a little difficult to get to the nuts to make the adjustment, but I managed. Now it works like new!

Inukeu2 - mine behaved as yours did, with the relay noise in the front, etc. That threw me off as well. One possible explanation is that there are multiple relays involved with the various switches and they 'click" at the same time when you turn on the switch. That's only a guess, however, without studying the wiring diagrams. I'm not sure about my dash lights, I didn't pay attention to those. In any event, this fixed my issue at least, and it's probably worth checking it out in your situation. You never know!