Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints

[bumperm]

Did the 50 hour service on my B3350. Changed the HST filter using the "shop-vac" method. Lost less than a cup of fluid initially and then it slowed to a drip. Good thing as for some reason I had a problem getting the new filter to start threading on. Without the vac it would have been one heck of a mess. Great idea -that, and thanks to all who've posted about it on this forum.

Oil change went smoothly too, except Kubota kind of buried the filler cap behind a couple of air conditioner tubes :c( . . . takes finesse with fingers to nurse the cap back into place and then thread it in.

Still, glad to get 'er done!

bumper

 

[robstaples]

Great thread. Thanks. Just got my B3350 and am having muscle memory problems with the HST. My L39(GST) drives like a car.. Right foot gas and brake, forward reverse on left side steering column. HST has no brake on right side. I almost took out my garage door pushing snow wanting to push something to stop forward motion. Solution s .. Just practice I guess.
I have just 3 hours on it and am waiting for warmer weather. Bought a magnetic block heater and it won't fit either tractor. L39 pan is nice and flat and aluminum and the 3350 is horseshoe shaped and frame in the way. My dealer sold me a Kubota water jacket heater that goes in a threaded freeze plug..ish hole. Instruction says 30 minute job. But will wait to get indoors. Too many things to disassemble. If I had known how it doesn't like too start in the cold( worst was 5 deg F), I'd have had the dealer do it before delivery.
Should be a included option with the rear glass defrost.
The coldest start had a puzzling feature. After like 5 long glowplug starts, it rattled and was running rough. The "!" Light was on with no other lights. The idle was low so I tried to raise the throttle. Lots on movement on the throttle arm but no engine effect. The manual said to restart the engine. Doing so, cleared the "!" Light and the throttle worked. There must be something other than mechanical linkage. Haven't tried to trace under the hood. Too cold!

 

[bumperm]

Rob,

Yes, there is more going on with the throttle than meets the eye. While it is best to push the auto regen button after start up and during normal tractor operation, if this is not done (due to operating tractor around combustibles etc) and the tractor "decides" it's really time for a regen cycle, it will indicate that a parked regen is an option. When doing the parked regen, the throttle is left at idle and the tractor's on board computer takes over, running the throttle both up to full and then back down to about 2000 rpm after the DPF gets to temperature. Almost like the **** thing is possessed!! :c) Bit it works!

I've only done a parked regen once, took maybe 20 minutes. I didn't time it as I went inside to have dinner and when I went back out it was finished and just sitting there at idle. (It really ought to shut down when done with parked regen, but they didn't program it that way as they tell you to not leave the tractor alone while it is exorcising itself or it's DPF demons.)

I too bought the screw in block heater but have not installed it. Tractor lives in a semi-heated garage so only "cold" starts have been limited to once or twice in the mid 30's. I've found it best to position throttle at mid point, then run the glow plugs for at least 10-15 seconds. If the engine rpm doesn't come up smoothly and it staggers and chokes along at barely idle rpm, I think it best to just shut it down and repeat start cycle again rather than waiting for it to die on its own. You can tell by the sound if it is gaining speed and going to smooth.

bumper

 

[2010drive]

Hey, Bumper

Sounds like you've been getting to use your tractor a bit:thumbsup:

After filling up my diesel truck and the tractor I got a water in fuel light in the truck on the ride home, I ended up having to have the trucks tank drained...long story short I drained the tractors fuel and replaced the fuel filter as a precaution. I am at 29.X hours and it was my first time even looking at the fuel filter canister:ashamed:. Curious as to what yours looks/looked like at your last glance? I have attached pictures of mine.

1. Original filter at 29.X hours

2. Clean canister with new filter before filling with fuel

3. Filled with fuel before starting engine.

4. After running for 10-15 minutes

 

[bumperm]

Whoa!

201drive, you've got a dose of contaminated fuel there! The bottom layer in picture 1 looks to be water. Picture 3 shows "cloudy" fuel that looks as if it may be carrying small water particles that have not yet settled out of suspension. Picture 4 bottom layer again is water. The water tends to settle out as the water molecules will not combine with diesel oil, though if agitated enough they can stay suspended for a relatively short while.
I would remove the filter bowl and clean it again. Do it soon and check it again often. Repeat each time you see water in the bottom of the filter and you may not have to replace the filter element if you can prevent it from getting fouled and clogged with water.

My filter looks clean with no sediment layer at over 50 hours. I'd be having a talk with your fuel supplier as they are responsible for selling uncontaminated fuel.

bumper

 

[2010drive]

Thanks for the info. It didn't look right to me either but I wanted some reassurance I will drain it tomorrow morning once I get back out there and report back:thumbsup:

 

[2010drive]

To add to my previous post...

When fueling up the pump was running fairly slow would I be correct in thinking their tank(s) were low and I was sucking up all the water/debris on the bottom of their tank(s)? As for going after them for paying to fix the problems caused by their fuel I don't think I would have much luck as I didn't get a receipt and it was 5 days ago now. But I did go on google and wrote a review on their page .

 

[2010drive]

Update:

Drained the canister a total of three times this morning.

1. Drained canister reinstalled and ran for a few minutes looked good.

2. Drained canister again just to be safe and a little bit out of the fuel tank, reinstalled canister ran it for 10-15 minutes looked similar to picture #4

3. Drained canister and a bit more out of the fuel tank, reinstalled canister and ran it for 15-20 minutes at 2300RPM


Final results attached...All looks well? I will be checking it before and after each use now. :thumbsup:

I don't know whats going on with the uploader it's attaching it crooked, just click on it and it fixes it.

 

[robstaples]

Has anyone run wires into the cab for snow blower control? Basic choices are thru the firewall or floor. I was just wondering if anyone had already done the investigation and found an easier way. I know cameras have been added to cabs but the wiring details aren't mentioned. I'm moving my snow blower from my L39 ( no cab) to my B3350. I ran the wires through orange 1/4 " air hose cut to length with magnets to hold the it to my frame for the L39. For control I have a 4 button pendent with magnets that I just clipped to the ROPS and it worked fine. The new cab is tight and the doors close tight so I have to come up with something else. Suggestions? thanks, rob

 

[bumperm]

Kubota installed the electric controlled 3rd function valve just ahead of the cab on the right side. Wiring goes back under the floorboard to a point near the inboard front edge of the fender, or a few inches to the right of the HST pedal and near it's aft edge. Looking under the fender from the outside, the wire goes up between the plastic fender well liner. Inside the cab, the wire runs up inside the void below the joystick, and then up the joystick to the button controls. (With the 3rd function option, the joystick is replaced with one that incorporates the control buttons).

If you want to get to the joystick area, this seems a good way to do it.

Otherwise, lift the floor mat and the sound insulation and see if you can't run your wires along with an existing wire run.

all the best,

bumper