Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints

   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints
  • Thread Starter
#51  
I don't think the DPF removal will be as easy as it seems. I'm guessing it would recognize it's missing the DPF and at least show a warning light, possibly a ruff idle, or even shutting down completely.

It's probably not as complicated as on the trucks but I bet it's not as simple as removing it. I am interested in seeing the results though:D

Should be easy and reversible to find out. First, unplug all three sensors and see if any idiot lights come on. If no, all is well. If yes, maybe still doable - proceed to next step! Remove all three sensors from DPF, but leave sensors plugged in. If no idiot lights, all is looking good (this would be my bet). If lights come on, oh well :c(.

If the above has no idiot lights, things may still not go well for removal. In some apps, turbo over speed is an issue. Not sure if our little turbo has automatic waste gate or no waste gate. If no waste gate, over speed might be an issue?

My B3350 has the 3rd function valve. Wires do down joystick and into fender . . . haven't traced them to see where they go from there.

Installed LED rear work lights today, still waiting for the Kubota switch. Used mirror and light to search for wiring plug behind dash - - no joy. Will have to remove dash cover to see if I can locate the plug.

Lights are much brighter and have more consistent even beam than stock: 36W Watt LED Work Light Lamp Truck ATV Tractor Boat 9 30V CREE LD196A | eBay

bumper
 
   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints #52  
H&S, who as you probably know is a huge player in the diesel truck aftermarket. Has stopped selling DPF delete "off-road" tunes, and is now only tuning for "on-road" tunes:mad:. Thankfully I got one of the leftover tuners and last model year supported trucks.
 
   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints
  • Thread Starter
#53  
Installed LED rear work lights today, still waiting for the Kubota switch. Used mirror and light to search for wiring plug behind dash - - no joy. Will have to remove dash cover to see if I can locate the plug.

Lights are much brighter and have more consistent even beam than stock: 36W Watt LED Work Light Lamp Truck ATV Tractor Boat 9 30V CREE LD196A | eBay

bumper

I removed the dash and found the wire and plug for the rear work lights taped up to a main part of the wiring loom.

To remove dash, lift rubber boot on steering column. Loosed two 10mm bolts, one behind each side of forward lower dash edge. Remove one Phillips head screw (black) below center storage compartment on upper dash. Dash will then pull off and move to the right enough to expose wiring harness and allow removal of taped plug.

Still waiting for switch from Kubota, but in the interim I plugged in the rear work light plug to the front work light switch. Needed to aim the lights down a bit more but they are just excellent!

Received box from Surplus Sales with all the hydraulic parts for the deflector on the front mount snowblower . . . I'll be busy for a spell.

bumper
 
   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints #54  
Good deal, I will be hooking up my snowblower tomorrow and will post pics:thumbsup:
 
   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints
  • Thread Starter
#55  
Finished the hydraulic chute upgrade on my B2782B snow blower, turned out well . . . pictures to follow, but here's some notes:

When I purchased the B3350, I ordered the 3rd function option with the idea of adding chute deflection on the blower. Even though it costs a bit more than Kubota's diverter valve deflector, the 3rd function is more versatile to my way of thinking. Total parts cost to add hydraulic deflector (on top of 3rd function) was $208.

From Surplus Center
9-7715-4 2" x 4" x 1.125" DA HYD Cyl heavy duty clevis $109
2 ea 9-6901-8-4, SAE 8M x 1/4 NPTF 90 swivel
2 ea 916-14108 1/4" x 108" hydraulic hose (this was just enough length considering chute rotation, but a couple of inches more would not have hurt).
2 ea 9-5406-6-4 3/8 NPT to 1/4 NPT bushing (to fit the 1/4 hose to the 3/8 quick connects used on the 3rd function valve)

I tapped the 1/4" side of the 90 swivels to accept a 1/4 x 20 steel set screw. I heated the set screw to cherry red and let it cool slowly so as to make center drilling easier, then drilled a .052" restrictor hole. Set screw Loctited in place. Without restrictors, I'm sure deflector would move way too fast, as with the restrictor the speed is perfect (there's no way to feather the 3rd function valve as it's controlled by push buttons on the joystick). I also chose to use a 2" diameter cylinder for this reason, figuring the extra volume over a smaller cylinder would slow things down some. (Note Kubota uses a 2 X 5 ram. The extra inch of travel would slow things about 20%, but the 4" ram is more readily available and the shorter stroke is not a problem as far as clearance is concerned - - just that the chute lever arm will be a little shorter.)

When making the brackets to mount the 4" stroke cylinder, it is most important to get the geometry right so the ram travel limits coincide with the desired chute travel (otherwise you either won't have full chute travel, or worse, the ram will over-travel the chute and stress or bend things. A deflector arm radius, measured from the deflector hinge pin to center on the ram clevis pin, of about 4" is a good starting point when laying things out using the Surplus Center cylinder.

Since I had the chute off to weld on the brackets, I greased the gear teeth and nylon chute bearing surface before reassembly - - works much smoother now.

Can't wait for the snow so I can go play!

Oh, one more thing . . . confirming what was discussed earlier re the "bucket dump" regen function of the 50 series joystick loader valve when used for the hydraulic motor chute rotation. Rotation speed is easily feathered using the non-regen side (left) for counter-clockwise chute rotation. When turning clockwise, moving the lever right, there's no actuation when passing through the regen area of stick travel though you can hear the hydraulic pump loading up as the regen function applies high pressure to both sides of the motor! I try to move through this regen region with minimal delay and then slow down stick movement to feather rotation speed as much as possible. Even though there are restrictors installed on the motor, it still starts up pretty darn fast . . . this will take a little getting used to, but seems workable enough with operator training :c)

bumper
 
   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints #56  
With the snow here in Erie lately, I've had a couple of chances to use the snowblower with the full Kubota chute control. It works very well but does take a bit of getting used to, like many things. No regrets with the purchase, and happy the dealer gave me a few replacement shear bolts to help with the learning process.
 
   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints
  • Thread Starter
#57  
BadDog,

The shear bolt for the impeller is a plain jane 5/16" X 1.5" grade 5 bolt. For the auger it's a "special" (read expensive - $2.50 or more each) 5/16" X 2.5" grade 5 with a single groove in the smooth shank portions (so it shears properly). I bought a handful of the plain jane version and will make 'em right on my lathe . . . go ahead, call me cheap (or parsimonious) I don't mind. Them shear bolts will end up costing me 40 cents.

bumper
 
   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints
  • Thread Starter
#58  
Here's the photos of my chute deflector install (sans snow).


lots of mountain . . . no snow






3rd function quick connects


cab controls on joystick for 3rd function (Kubota option)

bumper
 
   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints
  • Thread Starter
#59  
Stock B2782B slides are forged(?), hardened steel. They work well for most apps, but on some driveways with colored concrete or pavers there's a possibility of leaving scrape marks. I made these non-marking slides from 3/4" thick UHMW polyethylene on new steel frames (I didn't want to mod the original parts). The slider is 12" long and 2 1/2" wide, with more bearing surface than stock. The wear pad is easily replaceable and is mounted with four 1/4 - 20 countersunk bolts.

Thought about heat bending the UHMW and bending the steel base to base to provide more of an upturn to the tip . . . but in the end I opted for the easy way out and beveled the ends at 30 degrees.



I also lined the chute with strips of 2" wide 4.5 mil thick UHMW tape (McMaster-Carr) to help prevent shushy snow from clogging. Considering lining the faces of the impeller too, though that looks to be more difficult and may not wear all that well.

EDIT: The UHMW tape, though slick, wasn't thick enough to avoid being trashed by some inadvertent gravel (neighbor had a snow stake positioned back away from the driveway). I'll be lining the chute with 1/8" thick UHMW.

bumper
 
Last edited:
   / Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints
  • Thread Starter
#60  
Lined the chute on my B2782B snowblower with 1/8" UHMW polyethylene as planned. A chore, but the UHMW does bend nicely using a heat gun - - I did a cold pre-bend using a sheet metal press brake but that step could be skipped. The UHMW should be heated to approaching 285 F or so, but since the bends want a little radius to match the chute, a somewhat lower temperature works too. UHMW is interesting in that as you heat it beyond 285 F or so, it starts getting clear but does not flow or puddle until a significantly higher temperature. It should be cooled slowly to avoid stress (though with 1/8" thick this isn't critical and all that's needed is to hold it in position until it cools).

Piece used on the main body of the chute is 25.5" X 19.25", then trimmed at the bottom to fit the angles there. Note that I only lined the upper surface of the deflector as shown. I will also make pieces to fit the sides of the defector, just haven't got to it yet. Also thinking of making a UHMW liner for the impeller housing. 1/8" thick fits, but just barely on the right side (there's more of a gap on the left). I'm sure closing the gap will increase the throw.



Chute complete with side liners for deflector. Note that there is *just* room for the 1/8" thick UHMW I used, tight fit, but deflector moves smoothly and easily, liner replaces original nylon washer:



bumper
 
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