I am new to compact tractors so was hoping someone knew the answer to this. I am able to change from High, medium, low without depressing the clutch although the owner's manual says to depress clutch and then change to High, medium, low. Also the owner's manual says to depress clutch when starting the tractor and switching between four wheel drive. Is it harmful to the tractor to do these things without depressing the clutch? Tractor seems to do fine without the clutching. Seems the only necessary time that I have found so far for clutching is when engaging the PTO.
Kubota b2920 clutching
- Thread starter Tractorrr
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MapleLeafFarmer
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why are you trying to "out guess" the engineers and designers of the tractor?
can switching in and out of 4wd and between l/m/h be done w/o the clutch? yes
should it be done w/o the clutch? no unless you think you know something more than the engineers/designers know.
can switching in and out of 4wd and between l/m/h be done w/o the clutch? yes
should it be done w/o the clutch? no unless you think you know something more than the engineers/designers know.
KennyV
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If there is No gear clash sounds when doing that... keep doing it, there is no thing that will fail because of the lack of a disengaged clutch. Obviously you have not done this while under a load...
I have a grand L4200 with a GST... I have Not used the clutch in so many years, I can not tell you the year I last used it. I have even disconnected the linkage to the clutch foot pedal, and locked the pedal down to keep it out of the way.
as to the why, my clutch plate, disk, throw out bearing And pilot bearing have had Zero wear for over a decade now, same with the associated linkage. With a GST there is a separate multidisk clutch pack in oil that is doing All the needed clutch work.
Your B2920 is not going to be a GST, but still if you do Not NEED to operate the clutch and all it's associated components don't...
I have a grand L4200 with a GST... I have Not used the clutch in so many years, I can not tell you the year I last used it. I have even disconnected the linkage to the clutch foot pedal, and locked the pedal down to keep it out of the way.
as to the why, my clutch plate, disk, throw out bearing And pilot bearing have had Zero wear for over a decade now, same with the associated linkage. With a GST there is a separate multidisk clutch pack in oil that is doing All the needed clutch work.
Your B2920 is not going to be a GST, but still if you do Not NEED to operate the clutch and all it's associated components don't...
The clutch seems to be working fine. Thank you for the replies.
You will discover when not using the clutch that every once in awhile when you shift there will be an awful clashing of gears that sounds like you're tearing the transmission out. So you're correct, most of the time the clutch is not necessary, but if the gears and engine happen to not be turning at complementary speeds it will sound awful and isn't good for the gears. Same thing for 4 wheel drive.
As for starting, I would have thought there's a safety switch on the clutch that won't allow starting without depressing the clutch. You might check your manual to see if that's working properly.
As for starting, I would have thought there's a safety switch on the clutch that won't allow starting without depressing the clutch. You might check your manual to see if that's working properly.
oldballs
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My B2620 works the same way. Clutching or not clutching seems just as smooth, without any hesitation or gear noise. When engaging the PTO it is absolutely necessary however. Hum-m-m I grew up clutching tractors and autos and trucks. I ain't against it. It seems to me that the machine will tell one if it is necessary or not. Guess I'll start clutching regardless.
The owner's manual is just trying to keep the operator from damaging anything.
If there's no rotation on the hydro output shaft and the wheels aren't moving, there's no need to clutch. However, if either of those conditions is true and you do not clutch, you'll grind the gears.
Since the PTO is dependent only on ENGINE speed and is not connected to the hydrostatic drive output, you DO need to always clutch when engaging the PTO.
On a high-hour tractor, where the hydro linkages are worn, and the hydro pedal or associated linkages may not always completely self-center after release (i.e. the tractor might creep on flat ground), you may need to use the clutch because it violates condition #1 above. On a perfectly tuned tractor, it is simply not necessary to clutch when shifting between ranges and 2WD/4WD on that tractor, and it will cause no damage.
Talk about "out-guessing" the engineers is just a little silly. I'm sure you can find numerous "do" or "do not" references in the manual that are nothing but corporate lawyer / warranty shield requirements.
sandyc
Veteran Member
When it is below freezing I use the clutch for starting (I figure less for starter to turn over). Other than that, I use the clutch for engaging or disengaging the pto for front snowblower.
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