Kubota L4200 - just got it! Has a few problems I need help with.

[jackmccarron]

Will it also start with the PTO leer in the 'ON' position? If so, someone has wired directly from the key switch start position, to the starter solenoid.
It will shut off with the switch... If the shut off solenoid is working (located near of the injector pump)... AND if the time delay relay is working( located under the dash).
You will not see the 'loose' components in the steering with the engine off... You will also need the tractor weight on the front tires to give resistance to the turning of the wheels in order to isolate the worn parts.
That glow plug problem is almost Always the glow plug controller, (located under the dash) the glow plug relay is very robust and almost Never fails. For the electrical layout {see my post #6 in this thread} http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-wiring-help-needed.html?highlight=glow+plugs

Response...

Haven't tried starting with the PTO ON yet.

After LUBING the shutoff solenoid the tractor now DOES shut off with the key. Yea!

Will check out your suggestions on the glow plug controller. Have verified that the glow plugs DO remain powered whenever the key is on.

Will do further checks on the steering with the engine running. Looking down into the steering mechanism (engine OFF) from the right side with right hood panel off, can see some kind of vertical thing (about an inch or more in diameter and an inch tall) moving around in a larger hole - looks maybe like a very worn out bushing????

Does anyone have a full electrical schematic of the L4200 that you could email to me??

 

[bellweather]

Seems to have a bunch of issues. Not sure how comfortable you are with electrical and mechanical repairs, but you may want to have it professionally serviced. At least get your hands on an owner's manual for starters. Good luck with your new machine.

 

[KennyV]

Does anyone have a full electrical schematic of the L4200 that you could email to me??

Watch eBay for a WSM for your tractor... You can find them at reasonable cost every now and then.... You will Never regret having one.

What part of the electrical schematics do you need?
My L4200 is a 1998 cab model, great tractor. KennyV

 

[skyhook]

Just got my L4200, and have a couple problems I'd like comments on:

1. Forward/reverse lever not disabling engine start (dangerous!) - in other words, if shift lever is in either forward or reverse position the engine WILL start with tractor moving immediately! It's not supposed to start unless the lever is in neutral. I assume there's and electrical interlock switch controlled by the lever. How do I get to it to check out the switch and the wiring?

2. The key switch should turn the engine off when it's turned to the off position. It doesn't. Only pulling the out the kill switch will shut it down.

3. Something really wrong with the steering. While holding the steering wheel straight, the tractor will deviate from a LOT from a straight line. Can even watch the front wheels moving from side to side. Very sloppy - something very wrong. Looking underneath (while my wife turns the steering wheel from one side to the other extreme with the engine off) , the hydrolic steering linkage seems to be "loose" in several places including a little play in the tie rod ends. What to do?

4. The "ez-checker" glow plug pre-heat indicator is ON constantly. Isn't it supposed to go out after a few seconds?

I think I'm going to love this tractor once it's behaving right!

Thanks for any suggestions.

Jack in Jamestown, Tennessee

Looks like you have a few issue's, Jack.
I can also tell you, all of which you mentioned,, I had or am still having also.
All except for the glow plug light issue, I can say, it should shut off after a few seconds, stay on longer when it's cold but should definitely go out.
The staring issue when in gear:.... if you pull the cover off, on top of the steering wheel,
you'll see two little "relay" switches, one is for "the reverse" backup horn, if equipped,
and the other is the neutral safety switch, should be near the lever ( forward and reverse).
For your steering issue's:....
I just replaced a tie-rod end, in Canada at Kubota, it was $100 bucks, in your area there about $25 bucks, go figure.
To check these out, jack the front of your tractor and move the wheels back and forth, keeping an eye on the tie rod end,,
ALSO, keep an eye out on the "center" section of the tractor, looking inside near the rad, at the bottom,
there you'll see your power steering cylinder and it's mounts, " my mount bolts" were loose and i also noticed some play in the "bushing" you spoke of....
There are a couple there, two in "pitman arm" assembly and two in the power steering assembly,

Here's a diagram of what I speak of,....

Look at bushings "070" "050" and "110" these may also have excessive play as mine do.

 

[bilrus61]

My L4200 also had the glow plug issue. I just used it like that for years! Not sure if my plugs burned out or not but it never caused a issue starting in the cold. For me cold was in the 30s. Never started it colder than that. Had a leak in the front axle. It needed a new bearing. Apparently the axle crushes the bearing when you load the loader to the max and drive it bouncing along and that causes the leak. Another issue I had was a leaking sight glass at the rear of the transmission. You can replace the bearing on the front axle yourself but I never did. Just would add some thick gear oil every now and then. I didn't use my front wheel drive very often so it wasn't a big deal for me. If you bushhog make sure you hose out the radiator. They get jammed with dirt and grass and LOOK clean but they arn't. Hose it out with a low pressure garden hose on a COLD engine. Never had any trouble with it running hot after I did that!

It was my first Kubota. I really loved that tractor. The loader was so strong if you got it jammed under a root trying to dig out a tree it would lift the loaded rear tires off the ground AND the JD660 tiller I had back there. Got 3 Kubota's now. Everytime I'm on one I decide that IT'S my favorite tractor of the three! lol.

 

[Jay4200]

It's a 1994 model with 1750 hours on it. Kubota made this tractor from 1994 thru 1999.

Only 1750? Sheesh - it's still a baby. I bought mine with ~2000; now it has 2700.

Sloppy steering is a function of a few things. The control arms are probably shot - look for torn boots - simple replacement for about $250 in parts. The power steering piston can also get sloppy - there is a grease fitting there that nobody gets, since you have to crawl underneath the front of the tractor to get it. Mine was all over the place until I replaced the control arms - it still wanders a bit, but it's good enough for 4 MPH.

The forward/reverse shuttle has a neutral-sensing micro-switch that is easily bypassed (as all of the safety switches are). The two wires I/O the switch come with a male connector on one and a female connector on the other, so you can just unplug the switch then plug them into each other. Somebody probably already did exactly that. The switch is right on the steering column where the lever sticks out with the rest of the shift linkage gizmos. Mine is bypassed - it's a PITA. My gear shift lever down on the right does have to be in neutral though...I think. Speaking of not-starting...be careful with your PTO lever. Many a tractor owner tore their tractor apart before realizing that the PTO lever was engaged - been there, done that...

Agreed on the glow-plug controller, incidentally. I bypassed mine when it died with a big fat button on the dash - press and glow plugs turn on (indicator light too). My tractor starts w/o glow plugs down to 15F, although it does turn over for 10-15 seconds. I've been using it below 40ish since I got them working again. I turn over the motor for a second or two just to get some fuel squirted in, then hit the glow plug button for maybe 3 seconds, then turn the engine over. Starts instantly like its 75 outside regardless of how cold it is.

I also have the same leaky seal on the front hub, and the same leaky sightglass as bilrus61. I'm up to 90W140 in the front axle, and keep a cup underneath the hub, but haven't had to add fluid in two years, so who cares? I've been planning to fix that almost as long as I have been planning to change out the siteglass, but it's just not a big enough pain to do yet...