Buying Advice Kubota M7040 with Loader Is this right for me

[NativeSon]

The M7040 has done everything I asked and then some. Shred heavy brush, move dirt, haul big round bales, move down trees off of fence line, and last weekend plow snow off drive---Which is very unusual here in East Texas but a heck of a lot of fun. The 4wd and FEL are a must.

Charlie

 

[ole farmerbuck]

I'm having good luck with my new M7040. 55 hrs now. Ihave moved a lot of dirt with it. We had a basement dug, 31x70 which is 34" above ground. I have moved dirt to backfill and slope it. That was a lot of loads!!

 

[swiss]

It is very interesting looking at the specifications between the 6040 and 7040.

The HP is 62 versus 68
Weight 4650 versus 4675
Limited Slip differential only on the 7040 (Big Differentiator???)

base price differential at list is $1835.00

These specs are close enough for me other than the limited slip differential. Given that I am going to be in the woods on loose leaves, mud, soil etc it would seem that the Limited Slip is a must. I know what they do on cars but have no experiance on a tractor.

Is the LSD a MUST HAVE???

 

[gwdixon]

It is very interesting looking at the specifications between the 6040 and 7040.

The HP is 62 versus 68
Weight 4650 versus 4675
Limited Slip differential only on the 7040 (Big Differentiator???)

base price differential at list is $1835.00

These specs are close enough for me other than the limited slip differential. Given that I am going to be in the woods on loose leaves, mud, soil etc it would seem that the Limited Slip is a must. I know what they do on cars but have no experiance on a tractor.

Is the LSD a MUST HAVE???

Of course it is a MUST have - because I have it!!:laughing::laughing::laughing:

Seriously, if you expect to need 4 WD a lot then you want 4 WD, not 3 WD.

 

[Grandad4]

Both models have the usual manually-engaged diff lock for the rear wheels, but the 7040 and larger models also have limited slip on the front. For really low traction situations, that's a plus. If you figure you'll be in the mud and snow a lot, you'll find it worth having.

That may also play into how much ballasting you do with weights, loading tires, etc. More traction may let you get by with less added weight, which can be a good thing on soft ground. The heavier the equpment, the more the ground gets rutted up, and eventually the trail is not passable. Some of the guys with larger equipment can probably comment more.

 

[TripleR]

For me the limited slip is worth its weight in gold. We replaced a Case CX 80 with a M84540 and the difference is very noticeable. We were always pulling the Case out of the mud. We have yet to get the M8540 stuck. The Kubota does have a little bigger tires, but in terms of traction in the muck, I have seen my son bury the M8540 up to the belly and drive right out of it. Now a couple of times he has had to use the FEL, but that did not get the Case out.

I have a Yamaha Rhino 4WD with a locking front differential and many times I have been able to get going in the muddy hills by flipping the switch, it is hard to believe the difference with one more wheel pulling.

 

[swiss]

You guys are not helping me save any money

Here is my list so far

MUST HAVES:
1.) FEL
2.) 4 Wheel Drive
3.) remote value on FEL for grappling bucket
4.) 2 Extra Remotes
5.) Grill Guard

NICE TO HAVES:
1.) Hydro Shuttle
2.) Limited Slip which would require the 7040

Off the top of my head we are looking at a retail differential of 4,000 or 10% of the total tractor cost.

I guess I answered my own question now that I have written this out, we are looking at 10% of the cost, so it a minor additional cost for what many may say is a huge luxury. But it also could be a new implement

 

[gwdixon]

The worst thing that could happen is to need something on the tractor that you don't have (and could have had).

Not talking about later add-ons (which tend to cost more) but rather basic functions unique to that model

If you go first class you'll never have a regret.

But...it is your cash, your budget, and your circumstances that only you know.

 

[rjkobbeman]

You guys are not helping me save any money

Here is my list so far

MUST HAVES:
1.) FEL
2.) 4 Wheel Drive
3.) remote value on FEL for grappling bucket
4.) 2 Extra Remotes
5.) Grill Guard

NICE TO HAVES:
1.) Hydro Shuttle
2.) Limited Slip which would require the 7040

Off the top of my head we are looking at a retail differential of 4,000 or 10% of the total tractor cost.

I guess I answered my own question now that I have written this out, we are looking at 10% of the cost, so it a minor additional cost for what many may say is a huge luxury. But it also could be a new implement

I have an M8540 and studied the entire M50/60/70/85/95 tractors EXHAUSTIVELY before deciding on my tractor.

After using my tracor for almost 100 hours so far (I bought it last summer), I can say this about your list above:

MUST HAVES:
1.) FEL -- YES!
2.) 4 Wheel Drive -- YES!
3.) remote value on FEL for grappling bucket -- Maybe, I have it but don't use it much. It is EASILY added later and does not cost more doing it later vs now. Could save by putting this off until a later date.
4.) 2 Extra Remotes -- Maybe, mine came with one and I bought one extra (still have room for a third). I use only one for my hydraulic top link. Your needs will dictate.
5.) Grill Guard -- YES! Doesn't cost much but really protects.

NICE TO HAVES:
1.) Hydro Shuttle -- YES, YES, YES! You can't change this later. Ditch the extras that you can buy later for this option if money prevents you from getting it all at once.
2.) Limited Slip which would require the 7040 -- I have it on mine so I can't comment on without. I suspect it REALLY helps. I have been in situation where I needed all the traction my tractor has.

 

[E/S]

I have an M8540 and studied the entire M50/60/70/85/95 tractors EXHAUSTIVELY before deciding on my tractor.

After using my tractor for almost 100 hours so far (I bought it last summer), I can say this about your list above:

MUST HAVES:
1.) FEL -- YES!
2.) 4 Wheel Drive -- YES!
3.) remote value on FEL for grappling bucket -- Maybe, I have it but don't use it much. It is EASILY added later and does not cost more doing it later vs now. Could save by putting this off until a later date.
4.) 2 Extra Remotes -- Maybe, mine came with one and I bought one extra (still have room for a third). I use only one for my hydraulic top link. Your needs will dictate.
5.) Grill Guard -- YES! Doesn't cost much but really protects.

NICE TO HAVES:
1.) Hydro Shuttle -- YES, YES, YES! You can't change this later. Ditch the extras that you can buy later for this option if money prevents you from getting it all at once.
2.) Limited Slip which would require the 7040 -- I have it on mine so I can't comment on without. I suspect it REALLY helps. I have been in situation where I needed all the traction my tractor has.

I agree 100 % !
The only thing I would add is if you work at over 4000', you need to think turbo.

E/S

 

[TripleR]

You guys are not helping me save any money

Here is my list so far

MUST HAVES:
1.) FEL
2.) 4 Wheel Drive
3.) remote value on FEL for grappling bucket
4.) 2 Extra Remotes
5.) Grill Guard

NICE TO HAVES:
1.) Hydro Shuttle
2.) Limited Slip which would require the 7040

Off the top of my head we are looking at a retail differential of 4,000 or 10% of the total tractor cost.

I guess I answered my own question now that I have written this out, we are looking at 10% of the cost, so it a minor additional cost for what many may say is a huge luxury. But it also could be a new implement

We used our CX80 which is an 80 HP with synchro-shuttle. We used it for 12 years and when it wasn't in the shop, we were satisfied with its performance. We really didn't have a problem with the synchro-shuttle as previously we had a non synchro-shuttle and even non synchro "crash box" transmissions.

Only after we got the M8540 did we realize how nice the hydro shuttle-shift was. It makes working in tight quarters and using the FEL much easier.

When figuring the relatively slight cost over the duration of your loan, it really isn't much.

I did not get the third function valve and have no need for one. If I ever do, I can add one.

 

[swiss]

Okay I have got the configuration decided. Thanks everyone knowledgable input always makes for better decisions :thumbsup:

Let me figure out my next questions..


Yes I am. Adding the nice to haves

 

[TripleR]

Okay I have got the configuration decided. Thanks everyone knowledgable input always makes for better decisions :thumbsup:

Let me figure out my next questions..


Yes I am. Adding the nice to haves

1. Fluid filled tires/wheel weights?
2. Tire type?

Always seem to be more or maybe I missed something.

 

[gwdixon]

You might want to consider adding a full stack of rear hydraulics (3 of them). One can never have enough. Well, maybe an overstatement since three is all you can get.

A Kubota QA fork lift attachment has been an absolute godsend. The Kubota model is very heavy duty. You will never run out of things to use it for. It can be financed along with the tractor and rear remotes at 0%.

You can also get low profile R1 tires to reduce height when going through the trees and cast rear wheels for added counterbalance for the FEL or forks. A caution - the low profile tires reduce the net lift height of the 3 PH which is already a bit low.

 

[swiss]

Can anyone post a picture of the fork lifts, I have not really seen but there may be a picture in one of the other forums. I really need a grapple root bucket to pick up slash from logging so my thoughts are that I can use the root grapple as a fork. I am limited a bit on hieght with the grapple but it may be a good compromise.

Remotes: I am confused, I know I might need them but the valves are things like SCD FD, I have no clue on the valve types. Help

Tires: wow what a lot of opinions on this site:confused2:
I am in the woods so R1's seem like the logical choice but anyone weigh in, I have no grass, no concrete only dirt roads and steep hills I will be traversing in the woods, leafs, dirt, soft soil etc.

Tire fill: not sure, I have a heavy fel up front and will get a heavy box blade so I have weight in the rear but loose maneuverability in the woods with the box blade. Would be nice not to have on the back but really I will be skidding trees from the back so I do not think I need fill. Yes I read the safety thread on skidding :thumbsup:

 

[TripleR]

Can anyone post a picture of the fork lifts, I have not really seen but there may be a picture in one of the other forums. I really need a grapple root bucket to pick up slash from logging so my thoughts are that I can use the root grapple as a fork. I am limited a bit on hieght with the grapple but it may be a good compromise.

Remotes: I am confused, I know I might need them but the valves are things like SCD FD, I have no clue on the valve types. Help

Tires: wow what a lot of opinions on this site:confused2:
I am in the woods so R1's seem like the logical choice but anyone weigh in, I have no grass, no concrete only dirt roads and steep hills I will be traversing in the woods, leafs, dirt, soft soil etc.

Tire fill: not sure, I have a heavy fel up front and will get a heavy box blade so I have weight in the rear but loose maneuverability in the woods with the box blade. Would be nice not to have on the back but really I will be skidding trees from the back so I do not think I need fill. Yes I read the safety thread on skidding :thumbsup:

We went with R1's on our M8540 and would do so again, others like R4.

We put fluid in our rather large rear tires and still need ballast on the 3-point. It takes a LOT of counter weight to get the full use out of the FEL.

On rear remotes you can get floating, self canceling etc., use the "search" function and you can spend several hours reading on rear remotes, there is even one on how many rear remotes are "needed".

 

[gwdixon]

Can anyone post a picture of the fork lifts, I have not really seen but there may be a picture in one of the other forums. I really need a grapple root bucket to pick up slash from logging so my thoughts are that I can use the root grapple as a fork. I am limited a bit on hieght with the grapple but it may be a good compromise.

Remotes: I am confused, I know I might need them but the valves are things like SCD FD, I have no clue on the valve types. Help

Tires: wow what a lot of opinions on this site:confused2:
I am in the woods so R1's seem like the logical choice but anyone weigh in, I have no grass, no concrete only dirt roads and steep hills I will be traversing in the woods, leafs, dirt, soft soil etc.

Tire fill: not sure, I have a heavy fel up front and will get a heavy box blade so I have weight in the rear but loose maneuverability in the woods with the box blade. Would be nice not to have on the back but really I will be skidding trees from the back so I do not think I need fill. Yes I read the safety thread on skidding :thumbsup:

I do a lot of logging with the M7040 so will advise you that rear weight is a MUST when using the FEL or forks. Your best bet is to build or buy a 3PH rear weight that is compact. There are hundreds of threads for ideas (search TBN for "ballast").

Filled tires and cast rims and/or rim weights would serve you well and at some point you will wish you had them. For the type of work you anticipate doing they should be considered a requirement.

A box blade will tend to hang up on things in the woods (as you mentioned) and limit what you can get at so is not the best choice for weight.

I don't have a grapple root bucket but have seen them. They are a bit shorter than forks and hold less. I'm sure they work well but a lot of slash can be carried on the forks. Forks are also great for loading logs.

A trick that I haven't done yet is to get another set of cheap used tines from a forklift repair shop for a total of four forks. Less chance for twigs to drop through the forks.

"Self-canceling detent" (SCD) holds the hydraulic valve engaged in position until the hydraulic cylinder reaches its limit and then it returns to the "off" position by itself. So you lock the lever and it will turn off automatically. Of course, you can flip it off at any time in the interim.

"Floating detent" (FD) requires the lever to be held in position to continue the hydraulic action. No automatic actions. The SCD valve can also be operated this way by not pushing the lever completely to the detent position.

Both cost about the same so it is up to your use what you use. I have two SCD and one FD.

R1 tires look to be your best bet if muddy conditions are an issue. With the hills you have, the optional low-profile tires would lower the center of gravity and make the tractor less tippy. My dealer had a set in back that he was trying to dump after several years (orchard country) but I passed since hills are not an issue here. No low hanging orchard limbs either.

Whatever configuration you decide on, the tractor will be an enjoyable and productive addition to your projects.

Attached are pictures of the forks as requested.