Kubota RTV Facts/Fiction...

[Dargo]

I have a coast valve, I took it out and adjusted the thing so it did not send me into the roll cage... There is an adjustment on the valve where the coast valve goes, unscrew it a few turns and problem solved.

Adjusting the servo has nothing to do with the hold back.

Regarding the snorkel, the air filter does not get that dirty.... I'm not sure I could justify the cost of the snorkel just to increase the time to change the air filter....

Changing hydro fluid in my opinion made no difference.

Wayne

My dealer was adamant that tinkering with the factory coast valve will cause cavitation and toast your tranny over time. I've bought a lot from him, but he said that if I screw with the coast valve, my warranty would be voided. He said that there wasn't the same problem with buying the coast valves and using them. That makes sense after reading in an earlier post of a dealer installing them. Supposedly they don't cause any problem like monkeying with the factory coast valve. The dealer told me that making unadvised adjustments to the factory coast valve will likely result in the tranny lasting about 500 hours or so before being ruined. No way I want to buy a new transmission after only 500 hours. Based on what I've been told, there's no way I'd screw around with the factory coast valve.

Oh yeah, I installed the high air intake kit as well. About twice a year I take the little glass bowl off and knock out about half a bowl of dirt, dust and other garbage that would have been in my filter. My filter looks like new still. On the thought that the air filter won't catch everything, I like the idea that it has far, far less to catch. I just don't like the rattling sound at full throttle I get from the high air intake setup.

 

[Wayne_H]

My dealer was adamant that tinkering with the factory coast valve will cause cavitation and toast your tranny over time. I've bought a lot from him, but he said that if I screw with the coast valve, my warranty would be voided. He said that there wasn't the same problem with buying the coast valves and using them. That makes sense after reading in an earlier post of a dealer installing them. Supposedly they don't cause any problem like monkeying with the factory coast valve. The dealer told me that making unadvised adjustments to the factory coast valve will likely result in the tranny lasting about 500 hours or so before being ruined. No way I want to buy a new transmission after only 500 hours. Based on what I've been told, there's no way I'd screw around with the factory coast valve.

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I've heard things like this before, but it makes no sense. The machine should not put you into the roll cage if your foot falls off the gas peddle. Take a look at the coast valve (I posted a pic earlier) and the OEM valve. The coast valve is open all the time letting the hyd fluid always bypass providing no braking. The OEM valve can be made to do the exact same thing, unscrew it all the way. I've got a hard time thinking that unscrewing it a turn or two will seriously affect the life of the trans, it is a bypass valve also, all you are doing is adjusting the pressure release.

Cavitation? It's not like a large diesel truck where the cylinder liners are going to get pitted and you need to add a donor material to prevent it. And it is not like you are constantly on the brakes. Guess in a few hundred hours we'll see if I am writing a post about my failed trans!

Wayne

 

[Dargo]

I've heard things like this before, but it makes no sense. The machine should not put you into the roll cage if your foot falls off the gas peddle. Take a look at the coast valve (I posted a pic earlier) and the OEM valve. The coast valve is open all the time letting the hyd fluid always bypass providing no braking. The OEM valve can be made to do the exact same thing, unscrew it all the way. I've got a hard time thinking that unscrewing it a turn or two will seriously affect the life of the trans, it is a bypass valve also, all you are doing is adjusting the pressure release.

Cavitation? It's not like a large diesel truck where the cylinder liners are going to get pitted and you need to add a donor material to prevent it. And it is not like you are constantly on the brakes. Guess in a few hundred hours we'll see if I am writing a post about my failed trans!

Wayne

I make no claims to be a Kubota engineer, or any sort of hydraulic transmission engineer. I'm only going by what they have told me. As freaking expensive as these things are, I've just opted to take their advice on the matter. I'm just going by what they say. Also, I see no reason why they would suggest the aftermarket valve over adjusting their valve if adjusting their valve would work. I don't know. I just don't want to tinker around too much with a few thousand dollar transmission.

 

[Wayne_H]

I make no claims to be a Kubota engineer, or any sort of hydraulic transmission engineer. I'm only going by what they have told me. As freaking expensive as these things are, I've just opted to take their advice on the matter. I'm just going by what they say. Also, I see no reason why they would suggest the aftermarket valve over adjusting their valve if adjusting their valve would work. I don't know. I just don't want to tinker around too much with a few thousand dollar transmission.

Yea, I hear you. I wish I had a better idea of how many people on this forum have RTV's. To date, I don't think I've seen anyone discuss ever having a trans failure.

Guess if mine fails I'll have some good pics to post!

Wayne

 

[riptides]

I have got a stock first year RTV. We can see whose transmission goes first. Sort of a bench mark.

 

[Dargo]

Yea, I hear you. I wish I had a better idea of how many people on this forum have RTV's. To date, I don't think I've seen anyone discuss ever having a trans failure.

Guess if mine fails I'll have some good pics to post!

Wayne

Maybe I'm all wrong, but I have a pretty strong feeling that the transmissions on the RTV900's and RTV1100's are some of the toughest transmissions in that type of vehicle. Nothing wrong with a Salisbury belt type of clutch, they've proven themselves durable for over 30 years now. Still, i think the Kubota transmissions are a bit stronger for what it's worth.

 

[NCRoadRunner]

OK, I'm the new guy entering this thread. We just purchased a 500, and it is working out very well for us. I've read through this thread, and am interested in some of the tip/tricks mentioned. Are they in more detail somewhere? being new to this vehicle, many of the terms, locations, are unclear... All comments and assistance will be greatly appreciated....
Thanks,
Henri

 

[timswi]

OK, I'm the new guy entering this thread. We just purchased a 500, and it is working out very well for us. I've read through this thread, and am interested in some of the tip/tricks mentioned. Are they in more detail somewhere? being new to this vehicle, many of the terms, locations, are unclear... All comments and assistance will be greatly appreciated....
Thanks,
Henri

Henri,

First off, welcome to TBN..Lot's of good info here, and lots of good people too.

What are you looking to do?...There are some tuning things you can do, but if you just bought yours, Kubota seems to have been taking care of the stuff we had to do as early owners.

 

[DIXIEDOG]

OK, I'm the new guy entering this thread. We just purchased a 500, and it is working out very well for us. I've read through this thread, and am interested in some of the tip/tricks mentioned. Are they in more detail somewhere? being new to this vehicle, many of the terms, locations, are unclear... All comments and assistance will be greatly appreciated....
Thanks,
Henri

I got one a few months ago and the only tip I've got for you is to drive the heck out of it :thumbsup: Like Timswi mentioned I think Kubota got most of the bugs worked out, I didn't suffer from any of the lack of power issues other guys on the board did with their 500's. I haven't had one issue with mine yet, I hope it stays that way

 

[NCRoadRunner]

Timswi & Dixiedog,

Thanks for the response... The only issue I have is that we have a steep paved road to our home (just moved here to NC from SC) and the Kubota 'creeps' up the hill. It runs great on the 'flats' and moderate hills, but does really slow down on this one grade. Now in it's defense, my Honda CRV also slows way down, until it dowshifts, then it does OK. The hill is steep, I have not yet tried the 'tip' I read on here about not keeping the pedal floored, but to let up on it to see if it will downshift. It does much better if I shift to 'L' and 'take the hill"....

Different subject..... Do you have any idea where I can come up with a wiring diagram of the Kubota? There are several 'empty' plugs in various harnesses that I am curious about. I want to install a few things, and If there are available unused fused circuits (like one for the 'work' lights that I wont be using) I'd use those..... I'm sure there is one in the shop manual, but when I asked the dealer he said there was not....

OK, thanks.... I'll be a frequent visitor here, I think forums are great :thumbsup:..... Perhaps somewhere along the line I'll even be able to 'contribute' instead of always 'taking from the pot'......

Are there other forums that I should be visiting????

Thanks,
Henri