Kubota Top-N-Tilt concerns

[MtnViewRanch]

The valves and the control cables should be able to be put in any of the 3 locations.

So the single std SCD valve that comes with the tractor should be able to be mounted at the top of the stack as well as having the left hand cable connected to that top valve. This is a good valve to have for implement use IMO.
Middle and lower valves should be float feature valves IMO. The middle lever is std for the middle valve, but the right hand lever cable would need to be switched down to the bottom valve instead of being at the top valve body. I believe that the cable is able to do that.

Control levers, left for implements, center for top link, right for side link.

Actual valves, SCD for implements.
Middle valve, float featured used for top link.
Bottom valve, float feature used for side link.

Again, this is just how I would have everything installed on this model.

 

[mopardude318]

What happens if the rod end 90 on the top link gets pointed straighter back?

Also, I would have the control levers so the far right lever would be the side link control and the center lever would be the top link control and the inside lever would be the implement control. So you don't have to fight the hoses, side link valve would be the bottom valve, top link would be the center valve and the implement valve would be the top valve. Reattach control cables accordingly.

The valves can be re-stacked accordingly if needed depending on types of valve bodies you have.

Don't forget the top link retainer.

All just some suggestions. Looks good and thanks for all the pictures.

Okay I pointed the 90* straight back. It's fine that way with the 3pt all the way down. Plenty of hose. I will put the top link retainer on.

Without having it in front of me, I'm only guessing. :confused3: What does the hose do with the hitch fully raised, or when the link is just held up not attached to an implement? All just a guess for me without having the tractor in front of me.

The lever configuration is only a suggestion and as far as the hoses go, his implement hoses are at the bottom, not the top. If the controls are as you say and not doubting you, I would change the cables around to control the valves as mentioned, side link at the bottom, top link at the center and implement at the top.

If he has different types of valves, (I hope he does) then I would be changing valve bodies around also.

Just my :2cents:

Brian, if he points the 90 straighter back the hose will be crimped at a severe bend when his 3pt is down.

Also, he's got his hoses right. Left lever (closest to him) runs the 3rd set of remotes. Center lever runs his top link. Far right lever runs his side link. That's how I run mine also. Makes logical sense when your hand is on the levers.

The hose puts itself in an S shape.

Yes, his implement hoses are at the bottom, which is the lever closest to the driver's seat. If the cables are moved as you want to do, you would then control the implement with the farthest right lever (away from the seat) and control the side link with farthest left lever (closest to the seat). Is that your goal?

Yes, he has a SCV valve at the bottom and float valves at the other two.

Just my guess.

I have all 3 SCV valve, no float unfortunately. I do have the valves as you guys specify, the far left handle is my implement in this case the rippers on the box blade, the center lever is top link and the right is side link. That configuration seems to be pretty comfortable.

I understand what Brian is saying on switching the cables and hoses so the implement control is the top stacked remote. It might make the hose configuration look better? I don't know, I don't feel that I am struggling while connecting or disconnecting?? I dunno. I can try it. I'm open

I did find my leak...or leaks. All 3 valves leak out of this seep hole I guess it's called? I pulled back that little rubber/plastic band.

You can see in this pic it they constantly drip. Not supposed to happen? Why do they do that and how can I fix it?

This is just in a half hour it makes a mess all over everything.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Is that leak on all of your couplers, or just that one? My first instinct is that any of the couplers that are leaking are bad.

As far as the coupling thing, it just seems easier to me to have the top set of couplers be the ones that you would be using for your implements, but if you have no issues with it how it is, then life is good. :thumbsup:

 

[mopardude318]

No, all three on that one side leak out of their respective holes... the right side on all 3 do not leak... so would that be the couplers that screw onto the lines are the culprit or is it the fittings that screw into the valves?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

No, all three on that one side leak out of their respective holes... the right side on all 3 do not leak... so would that be the couplers that screw onto the lines are the culprit or is it the fittings that screw into the valves?

I would say the couplers that screw onto the fittings that screw into the valves. Send a picture to your dealer and see what they say. I would hope that they would send you 3 new couplers.

Ask them and find out. You won't know without asking.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Not sure why but have 2 Kubota factory remotes and the Kubota Top and Side cylinders on the L3130GST 3 point the side one will take half a day to one day to drift down and the top link will take a couple days to leak down and this is without any check valves.

Cannot believe what some of the new ones are doing.

David

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Not sure why but have 2 Kubota factory remotes and the Kubota Top and Side cylinders on the L3130GST 3 point the side one will take half a day to one day to drift down and the top link will take a couple days to leak down and this is without any check valves.

Cannot believe what some of the new ones are doing.

David

Obviously different quality of valve and depends on how much weight is on the 3pt. A 500lb implement is not going to extend the cylinders at the same rate a 1000lb implement does.

 

[flingwing1969]

As far as the top cyl being short, replacing the cylinder is an option but will be expensive. As Coyote said, try moving the hole position. If that does not work, I believe you can buy a top link extender bracket. (Cheaper then a cylinder)

It might have been said, but the higher you go on the TL holes the more aggressive the bite.

 

[JRobyn]

From my recent experience, Kubota OEM valves are quite sensitive to exactly how much clamping force their little bodies get! They can be "sticky" if too much, and can perhaps leak internally also. If yours are leaking down, it may be worth checking the "gang bolt" torque. Mine calls for 22.5-24.5Nm.

 

[PSDStu]

From my recent experience, Kubota OEM valves are quite sensitive to exactly how much clamping force their little bodies get! They can be "sticky" if too much, and can perhaps leak internally also. If yours are leaking down, it may be worth checking the "gang bolt" torque. Mine calls for 22.5-24.5Nm.

Did you have any success with replacing the 3 o-rings and then properly torquing the gang bolts to stop the leakdown?