Oil & Fuel L2650DT steering seal leak

[SouthernSky]

Including a picture here. In addition to the axle seals leaking I also have a leak on both sides of the shaft to the tie rods.

Do I have to drain my hydraulic fluid to take this apart? It appears to be the lowest point where two hydraulic lines go in, a design changed in later years because like me it doesn’t take much to bend those lines to near the breaking point.

I’m just thinking if I got a couple caps when I undid the hydraulic lines would save me from changing all the fluid in the tractor.

Yes? No? Have you ever changed these seals?

 

[K5lwq]

You should not need to drain the fluid. Very little will be lost when you take the lines loose.

 

[TripleS]

Long as the tractor isn't running only the oil in the line will be lost

 

[SouthernSky]

Thanks, folks. I wasn't sure if there was anything tanked behind those lines.

You would happen to know the thread size for caps and plugs, would you?

 

[K5lwq]

The steering valve is between the pump and that cylinder. You could use a shop towel rapped around the ends just to keep dust out. I don’t know what size or thread type those fittings are.

 

[ptsg]

While you're at it, please fix that weird kink in the hose for the steering cylinder. It's giving me the fits.

 

[SouthernSky]

While you're at it, please fix that weird kink in the hose for the steering cylinder. It's giving me the fits.

I confess I’m scared to touch it as it has been there over 25 years.

 

[SouthernSky]

Time to reopen this. I basically had other issues that kept me from finishing this. Like a jackstand collapse and me saying the hell with it.

Now after a couple months I find it necessary to work on it again which I have been this evening. But I’m stuck.

Same picture as above, but how the heck do you get the flange on one side off in order to pull out the steering cylinder? The WSM says to pull one flange off but the flange appears to be one piece and therefore won’t slide out.

 

[Harry in Ky]

It will come off. You just haven't smacked it hard enough. Leave the bolts in on one side end smack the other side. One end cap or the other will come off and allow you slide the cylinder out.

 

[K5lwq]

If you are just replacing the seals on the cylinder why not leave it on the tractor?

You should be able to remove both tie rod ends and remove the snap ring on both glands and the rod will slide out. Just use the rod like a slide hammer to remove the gland. Once the rod is out you can use a piece of wood or something through the cylinder to drive the other gland out.

 

[SouthernSky]

The WSM said I would need a special tool to change the leaking seals. This tool is unavailable so I thought I’d take it to my local hydraulics shop where they’ve done some work for me in the past.

I’ll try banging a little harder on the flange.

 

[SouthernSky]

I thought it was one piece but apparently it did separate when I whacked it a bit harder with a mallet.

Thanks. I may be back shortly with more on this …

 

[SouthernSky]

Does anyone know if these are all righty-tighty, lefty-loosey where the steering cylinder meets the rubber grease boot? I’m having a heck of a time trying to separate and was wondering if the right side is reverse thread. Can’t tell from the WSM pics.

 

[K5lwq]

Normally one is left hand threads.

 

[SouthernSky]

That’s what I was afraid of. I just don’t know which.

 

[K5lwq]

I would suspect the right side is left hand threads. I call right side as your right when sitting in the seat. But not confident of that as it has been a while since I’ve done one.

 

[Alan W.]

The WSM said I would need a special tool to change the leaking seals. This tool is unavailable so I thought I’d take it to my local hydraulics shop where they’ve done some work for me in the past.

I’ll try banging a little harder on the flange.

Those tools are just guides and a compressor for the seals so they dont get cut on the install.
I have used small engine piston ring compressors to aid in seal installation.
Wide zip ties will work in a pinch.

 

[SouthernSky]

I’ve spent the last hour on this and it’s driving me crazy. I can’t get either of the sides of the steering cylinder to come free from where the rubber boot end meets the silver cylinder.

I’ve tried putting two large wrenches on the notches and moving opposite directions. I’ve tried whacking one wrench with a mallet. I let it soak overnight with PBBlaster last night. I’ve tried as if left hand or right hand thread as the manual didn’t specify except at the tie rod nut.

I sure could use some more suggestions. Anyone done this before? The only way I can get the flanges off to change the leaky seal is to get at least one side separated so I can slide the cylinder out the opposite side.

 

[K5lwq]

I’ve spent the last hour on this and it’s driving me crazy. I can’t get either of the sides of the steering cylinder to come free from where the rubber boot end meets the silver cylinder.

I’ve tried putting two large wrenches on the notches and moving opposite directions. I’ve tried whacking one wrench with a mallet. I let it soak overnight with PBBlaster last night. I’ve tried as if left hand or right hand thread as the manual didn’t specify except at the tie rod nut.

I sure could use some more suggestions. Anyone done this before? The only way I can get the flanges off to change the leaky seal is to get at least one side separated so I can slide the cylinder out the opposite side.


View attachment 874569

What type wrenches are you using?

Maybe rest a heavy made wrench on the cylinder rod side against the axle. Then use a 24” or bigger adjustable wrench on the tie rod. Then a heavy gauge pipe about 4’ long or more over the adjustable wrench handle. It should move. Once it breaks free it turns very easily.

 

[SouthernSky]

That’s actually what I’m doing and adding some leverage as well. Are they both normal threads or is one actually left hand?