RimGuard is about 20% heavier than water based tire ballast.Wow, did not see that in the manual, will check on the RimGuard too.
1) I just got a L3301 and the R1 tires seem to lend one to tip over, as they seem a bit too light or not wide enough.
2) What should I do, replace with turf or fill them up to add weight..?
So how much would that cost for RinGuard for all 4 tires, or would just the 2 rear be enough?RimGuard is about 20% heavier than water based tire ballast.
RimGuard is fine if max liquid tire ballast is your goal.
However, in most regions of the USA RimGuard + R1 ag tires will likely rut any lawn you traverse with your tractor. Consider this downside carefully. A water based fill MAY be superior to RimGuard for your situation.
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I figured out the counterweight on the Three Point Hitch, but still need more as I am an aggressive land clearer with the smaller bushes and trees. I am looking at the Box Blade, but it needs some work and its green so I hate to do have to put it on, LOL. I am running 4WD and tearing up the yard like crazy as you can imagine, so was looking at the turf tires but decided against it as they keep picking up nails on my JD 790, as we have constant new houses and building here in south Florida. I think filling the rear tires 50% may be the best way to add weight, or just get the R4 tires, so we shall see...1) Counterbalance weight mounted on the Three Point Hitch, usually an implement, is more effective pound-for-pound increasing tractor stability relative to tire ballast.
I use a Box Blade for counterbalance. Other frequent choices are Rototillers and Cultipackers. The tires on my L3560 are inflated with air, as were the tires on my two previous tractors.
Your modest weight / modest horsepower tractor is unlikely to rut dry lawns in 2-WD with R1/ag tires inflated with air without counterbalance mounted.
VIDEOS: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=tractor+counterbalance+implements
2) Rear tires should be ballasted 50% to 75% full.
50% for lowest center-of-gravity on hills.
50% to reduce proclivity to rut lawns.
75% for max traction.
These fills would normally be done with the wheels/tires on the tractor.
Sometimes an inexperienced mechanic will fill rear tires 100% while tires are laying flat, in which case there is no air in the tire therefore your tractor has 'zero' suspension and tractor will ride rough.
I can find weights for my John Deere pretty easily, but have not seen anything for the Kubota except for the older models. Are they moving away from using them..I would not spend the money for Rim Guard in S FL. Instead use plain water which you can do yourself. Watch some youtubes for a "how to do it". Use your box blade for counter weight. You can always hang some weight on the box blade. I laid a 4 x 4 x 60 piece of square tubing across the box blade which helped a lot. I also hung 2 - 50# weights on the ripper bar. If I need more I will cut some rebar 59 inch long and fill the tube up and tac them into place. You can also buy wheel weights for the rear rims of the R1s.
This might be helpful for some of the FL plants.By a light weight one for your tractor its got a limited lifting capacity.
Well, one thing, is I have well water and in south florida it has high sulfur and other minerals that rust everything metal it touches. Cant clean, wipe, or sprinkle near the tractors with that water much less put it in the tires.1) Increasing the spread of your R1/ag tires will do much more for tractor stability than filling the rear tires with liquid. Spread the wheels/tires first.
2) I would not spend the money for Rim Guard in S FL. Instead use plain water which you can do yourself.
I concur.
VIDEOS: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=loading+filling+tractor+tires