L3400 technical details, how do I get them?

[canoetrpr]

I didn't say that........ maybe I used the wrong analogy, but I've found through experience, that sometimes trying to save a buck on the front end will end up costing a lot more before you are done.
Kubota offers a KIT which means you get everything that you will need to do the job.

Hi Todd: Do you know if the valve kit has instructions for mounting? Is a mounting bracket included. If it does then I might well look into going with it instead of aftermarket.

Thanks for posting on this topic.

 

[ccsial]

Hi Todd: Do you know if the valve kit has instructions for mounting? Is a mounting bracket included. If it does then I might well look into going with it instead of aftermarket.

Thanks for posting on this topic.

Here is a few pictures of the Kubota unit. It bolts to the ROPS. I had it installed before I took delivery. The baking tin mounted on top was my addition. It holds my gloves and branch shears.

If you do your own aftermarket valve you could also bolt it to the ROPS without drilling it. You would have to fabricate some sort of plate for it.

 

[canoetrpr]

ccsial:

I always figured that your mount was custom made by your dealer.

That mount looks pretty clean. If I could purchase it separately that would save me getting someone to fabricate something and I might still be able to go with an aftermarket valve stack.

 

[StrangeRanger]

Very valid point, and I follow that rule of thumb often myself. Using factory parts is also usually a great + down the road if you do ever decide to sell.

My hesitation stems form the fact that my local dealer has been far from knowledgeable on the topic. He has been unable or unwilling to find out if the "kit" does in fact contain ALL required bits-n-pieces AND instructions. If someone could confirm this for me I'd prefer to go that route. But nothing burns my balls more than when I buy a "kit", and find out, oh, btw you need this and that and this. Don't call it a dang kit if it's not complete you know.

So, can anyone confirm the "completeness" of this kit. Or, could you recommend a knowledgeable I could contact? Anyone by chance have a copy of the instructions? And once this kit is installed all I then need are the cylinders and hoses to connect them right?

Thanks,
j

I didn't say that........ maybe I used the wrong analogy, but I've found through experience, that sometimes trying to save a buck on the front end will end up costing a lot more before you are done.
Kubota offers a KIT which means you get everything that you will need to do the job.
Personally, I would rather spend a few more dollars up front than have to run all over the county chasing parts or waiting several days for the parcel truck to bring the 50 cent part I need to finish the project, but that's just me.
Sorry if I upset you.

 

[canoetrpr]

So, can anyone confirm the "completeness" of this kit. Or, could you recommend a knowledgeable I could contact? Anyone by chance have a copy of the instructions? And once this kit is installed all I then need are the cylinders and hoses to connect them right?

Very similar situation here StrangeRanger. No dealer locally even knew there was something from the factory offerred for the L3400. Particularly if the mount is part of the kit, I'll also look at going with the factory kit. The mount wasn't in a part that you listed - maybe it just comes with the valve?

The mount looks nice and clean.

 

[StrangeRanger]

I'm a fool, Todd, I just looked at your signature. You ARE a Kubota guy! Duh. Can you quote me on here or could I call or PM you?

I'm very mechanically / electrically inclined, but I'm tractor stoopid at this point. I'd love to get a straight answer from you on exactly what I'd need and even a quote.

As I said, I've got an L3400 HST w/ FEL that I want to add rear remotes to so I can add a CNC top n tilt (I'm assuming K still doesn't offer one). I'm also assuming I need to remotes, one for top and one for tilt. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I appreciate your post w/ part #'s etc. early in this thread, but is that everything. Am I right to assume I'd obviously need the top n tilt cylinders and the hoses/fittings to connect them?

Please!!! Help the tractorly inept! Thank you!
j

 

[canoetrpr]

ccsial:

I'm interested to know how your hoses are routed from the hyd block to the remote. It appears they go under the fender. Is this correct? As opposed to going over the fender beside the seat and the 3PT and PTO lever.

They must be secured somehow to the fender to ensure that they don't come in contact with the tire?

Sorry for the detailed questions... just figured I might as well find out what your dealer did as your setup looks nice and clean.

It is tempting to go with the factory setup as I wasn't looking forward to the extra trips to the hydraulic shop to get the right fittings / hoses / hose-lengths etc.

 

[ccsial]

canoetrpr:

The hoses are on the outside of the fender, then go under the fender bracket and under the floorboard to the valve. See pic. Note the retunr to tank hose at lower left of pic where filler used to be.

If your dealer can't find it I can call mine and ask for the part number. I'm sure they didn't fabricate it because they had to order it. I assume it was from Kubota.

 

[canoetrpr]

Thanks ccsial..

Remember my dealer was the one that couldn't find the part number for the toplink holder braket . I think you helped me out with that too

I wondered why your return to tank wasn't hooked up on the hydraulic block. Now I know why

 

[Mahana79]

I didn't say that........ maybe I used the wrong analogy, but I've found through experience, that sometimes trying to save a buck on the front end will end up costing a lot more before you are done.
Kubota offers a KIT which means you get everything that you will need to do the job.
Personally, I would rather spend a few more dollars up front than have to run all over the county chasing parts or waiting several days for the parcel truck to bring the 50 cent part I need to finish the project, but that's just me.
Sorry if I upset you.

its all good. I will still use the parts that i use. i guess i basically use a "kit" I just assemble the pieces myself to save the markup from someone else doing it for me.

 

[ccsial]

canoetrpr:

I'll call my dealer Monday and see if I can get a price and P/N.

I just looked at my invoice and they charged me $750 for the remote and that included installation.

Al

 

[66gladiator]

Sorry for not getting back sooner.
I'll try to answer all the questions at once.
I have a commercial customer that uses these valves, but I don't remember whether the mount comes in the hydrailc kit or the hose kit. (thinkin hydraulic) I'll check and see if it is available by itself through parts.
Regardless, you will need the port plug and o-ring for any of the kits or even for the DIY because that is how the fluid is circulated back to the tractor as shown in ccsial's pics..
I will be glad to quote any or all monday morning or you can just order the numbers I gave from your dealer. (remember to order the plug & o-ring from the parts dept.)
The proper hydraulic block adaptor or cover (FEL or non) comes in the corresponding kit.

 

[canoetrpr]

Thanks Todd:

Interesting that the Kubota kit returns fluid to the tank literally through the spot where hydraulic fluid is filled. I suppose one has to just undo that when it is time to drain re-fill hydraulic fluid?

The alternative that DIY instructions tend to use is to use the return to tank on the hydraulic block. There is already a return to tank port there which can be teed since it is not under pressure. That is a typical DIY install as MadRef and others have done.

Not a bad idea to return to the tank through the rear is it is one less fitting to have to muck with. I'm wondering what one has to do to re-fill hydraulic fluid though.

 

[ccsial]

Not a bad idea to return to the tank through the rear is it is one less fitting to have to muck with. I'm wondering what one has to do to re-fill hydraulic fluid though.

Not to worry. When I did the 50 hour I found that this is a swivel type fitting. I just removed the big plug and the hose does not turn due to the swivel mount.

 

[StrangeRanger]

Cool Todd, thanks for the help. Now I just gotta get the wife to let me spend the $$
j

Sorry for not getting back sooner.
I'll try to answer all the questions at once.
I have a commercial customer that uses these valves, but I don't remember whether the mount comes in the hydrailc kit or the hose kit. (thinkin hydraulic) I'll check and see if it is available by itself through parts.
Regardless, you will need the port plug and o-ring for any of the kits or even for the DIY because that is how the fluid is circulated back to the tractor as shown in ccsial's pics..
I will be glad to quote any or all monday morning or you can just order the numbers I gave from your dealer. (remember to order the plug & o-ring from the parts dept.)
The proper hydraulic block adaptor or cover (FEL or non) comes in the corresponding kit.

 

[StrangeRanger]

Hmm... I'd really rather not have the hoses exposed on the under side like that. have you ever snagged them on anything?
j

canoetrpr:

The hoses are on the outside of the fender, then go under the fender bracket and under the floorboard to the valve. See pic. Note the retunr to tank hose at lower left of pic where filler used to be.

If your dealer can't find it I can call mine and ask for the part number. I'm sure they didn't fabricate it because they had to order it. I assume it was from Kubota.

 

[66gladiator]

I don't think they want to sell the mounting bracket by itself, as the three pieces run in the neighborhood of $250.00!

However, the tank port plug and o-ring should come in around $20.00 including freight.

 

[wushaw]

Thanks Todd:

Interesting that the Kubota kit returns fluid to the tank literally through the spot where hydraulic fluid is filled. I suppose one has to just undo that when it is time to drain re-fill hydraulic fluid?

The alternative that DIY instructions tend to use is to use the return to tank on the hydraulic block. There is already a return to tank port there which can be teed since it is not under pressure. That is a typical DIY install as MadRef and others have done.

Not a bad idea to return to the tank through the rear is it is one less fitting to have to muck with. I'm wondering what one has to do to re-fill hydraulic fluid though.

The return to the tank at the filler port is only pressure relief return not much fluid goes through there.

If anybody already has a backhoe then one line will need to be resized to the proper length.

 

[canoetrpr]

Thanks a bunch for your help Todd.

I'm going to try to figure out what I want to do - do the install myself or not bother with it and just take it to a local dealer. Time is always a factor as much as I'd like to learn to do stuff on my tractor.

The information you've provided here sure makes it easier to do myself either by using the factory kit or even if I don't just using the port plug and o ring will help as I don't have to muck with the return to tank port on the hydraulic block and tee it (and chances are I'll pick up the wrong fitting size if I do that

 

[ccsial]

Hmm... I'd really rather not have the hoses exposed on the under side like that. have you ever snagged them on anything?
j

I have not snagged them. But most of the deep woods work goes to the 1910.