L4240 Stalls when the ambient temp is hot.

[5030]

It's also possible that the electric lift pump is failing. When it's good and hot out, check for fuel flow after the lift pump.

I agree. Sounds to me like your lift pump is failing. Mine are mechanical and driven off the camshaft and easy to replace as well. Not familiar with the electric ones but they fail as well.

 

[5030]

well after a few weeks of cool weather, it finally got warm. Tractor was running good while it was nice.

On the first hot day it started stalling pretty bad, when I got back to my shop there was hydraulic fluid coming out of the silver thing (or above it and dripping down) in the pic. Service folks said it most likely some seal on the transmission in there that doesnt go bad often.. of course. I dont remember exactly what he said it was, but required essentially split in half.

Havent heard back yet on the exact issue. But I am guessing the stalling was when the fluid got to a certain temp it would start to leak then stall out.

That is the drain for the bellhousing and if it is dripping fluid, it's indicative of a main seal leaking. If it's engine oil or transmission fluid, only you can tell but either wan it will entail a split to remedy and has nothing to do with your stalling hot issue.

 

[kleetus]

well any of the fixes for this are well above my paygrade, so its in the shop now. I will update when I find out something, I am sure it wont be cheap

 

[kleetus]

That is the drain for the bellhousing and if it is dripping fluid, it's indicative of a main seal leaking. If it's engine oil or transmission fluid, only you can tell but either wan it will entail a split to remedy and has nothing to do with your stalling hot issue.

it was transmission fluid that was coming out.

 

[5030]

Then your input shaft seal is leaking. Least it's not the crank seal leaking because that usually contaminates the clutch if you have a clutch.

Amount is always important because a small amount may be from thermal expansion whereas a large and steady amount means the seal is shot.

 

[dstig1]

Actually this is a known failure point on the Grand L, both the 30 and 40 series. And it may recur in a few years. So far mine has held (knock on wood). The crappy part is you have to split the tractor to get to the one cheapo seal to replace it. Why Kubota let it go all those years without a real fix is beyond me, but probably good old cost.

 

[5030]

I knock on wood as well (leaking crank or input shaft seal). Of course neither of my M's have a clutch to get contaminated. All that is in the bell housing is a damper plate to mitigate shock loads during directional changes so if they did start leaking, I'd just keep an eye on the engine oil level or the gearcase level.

Even with nothing inside the bell housing, both still have pin drain on the bottom.

 

[5030]

well any of the fixes for this are well above my paygrade, so its in the shop now. I will update when I find out something, I am sure it wont be cheap

Above my pay grade as well. Considering labor rates (shop time) today, it will probably be a wallet buster. It's all grunt work for the most part, parts will be inconsequential.

One reason why I never use the 'vacuum' method when changing gearcase lubricant. Pulling a vacuum on the gearcase to mitigate spills when changing filters, in my thinking, puts undue strain on all the seals and could cause an expensive failure. I might be 'all wet' on that assumption but I want to be safe, not sorry.

 

[jonsstihl]

Pretty sure there is no lift pump on the 40series. Gravity feed all the way to the filter.

 

[5030]

Pretty sure there is no lift pump on the 40series. Gravity feed all the way to the filter.

Not sure actually, I was just assuming in as much as both my M's have mechanical lift pumps, but then my fuel tanks are BELOW the centerline of the crankshaft.