L4310 Enhancements

[MChalkley]

Peter - Thanks! I'm glad you've found the info useful for something.

I've been out of town since last Tuesday working on a project. Because of the predicted snow storm for the mid-Atlantic states (which hasn't turned out to be nearly as bad as they were saying it would be), we finished up late Saturday night so we could get back home. Anyway it gave me a really good chance to check out the lights. I dug holes for a dozen or so trees, hauled a lot of mulch and topsoil, etc. well after it got completely dark. They worked great. When I first put in the rear-mounted flood along with the traps, I wasn't sure if they would both be all that handy, but I was glad I had them. When backing up, it was nice to have the traps to see a distance, but the flood worked perfectly for seeing up close for digging the holes.

Computer controlled hydraulics, eh? As all the others have mentioned, it's been done, but not on a compact utility tractor, as far as I know. Could be interesting, though...

MarkC

 

[MChalkley]

Rat - I've got a "back-to-basics" approach to leveling roads, especially washboarded ones, that works pretty well already, though it doesn't have much "gee whiz" factor: If you put a trailing gauge wheel on a blade (end plates, or at least one on the left side, help too) and a hydraulic cylinder to control its depth, you can make grading pretty painless. You just put the 3-point hitch control in float position and the trailing gauge wheel rides on ground that the blade has already cut, which is automatically a lot smoother than what the tractor is riding on, so the blade doesn't react so much to the pre-graded surface. You still have to go over it more than once, generally, but it's a lot faster and you end up with a lot better job, too.

MarkC

 

[Rowski]

MarkC

Do you have a single gauge wheel on you blade or two (which is better). I though I remembered seeing you blade picture but can't find it. I am going to make a gauge wheel setup for my blade this winter with end plates. Where do I get the guage wheel assembly from? I still have the hydraulic setup question for you (and anybody else). I will post it under another topic. Thanks

Derek

I here you are supposed to get a wild snow storm!??

 

[MChalkley]

Derek - Here's one picture I found in an earlier post on this topic that shows the blade, though it's pretty hard to see the gauge wheel and cylinder: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/2-11084-sideview2.jpg.

I use a single gauge wheel to control the overall depth and the tilt cylinders to control the side-to-side angle. But two gauge wheels would work better, I expect. I just did it the way I did because Landpride made the gauge wheel for the middle. I adapted a cylinder to it. Depending on the type of blade you have, you can probably get a gauge wheel from the manufacturer.

MarkC

 

[Rowski]

The attachment is picture of blade (Woods) on tractor. I was initally thinking of having two gauge wheels to help control the slight up and down movement (from looseness in the "head or turntable" of the blade). My thoughts were to get a heavy duty caster from northern tool and make by own manual adjustable bracket (either square or round stock). I would like them hydraulic but its to much for what I need. Also are your endplates flush with the bottom of the blade?

Derek

 

[MChalkley]

Derek - My Landpride blade has some slop in it, but it doesn't cause a problem when grading. Either one or two would work fine I suspect, but if you go hydraulic, plumbing for one is a lot less trouble.

My endplates are set about 1 1/2" above the bottom of the blade. Most of the time, I only have the left one installed. Angling the blade so the right side is closer to the tractor causes the dirt to flow toward the left side when I pull it anyway.

MarkC

 

[Rowski]

Thanks. This is my winter project. I'll post the results in the spring. I'm still up in the air 1 or 2 wheels? Might have to sleep on it.

Thanks again... MarkC the "Enhancement Guru"

Derek

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by Rowski on 12/3/00 01:25 PM.</FONT></P>

 

[RBManufacturing]

Rat & Thomas,
Thanks for the info. I have found 3 companies that make the
laser leveling system. Everyone uses one or another of the
three. All very expensive. If I ever get enough R&D cash,
I'll make something equivelent. MUCH CHEAPER. Initial
research shows hydraulics and plumbing to run less than
$1000.00. Electronics, and computer system $1700.00 and
laser from $1000.00 to $2000.00. I believe with the right
suppliers, and the right people to help, I can do so and
still make a GOOD profit. From everyone that has asked for
the system, I believe a HUGE market is there. I have three
tile plow companies that would buy immediately if the price
is right. Most just sell the plow and tell the buyer where
to get the laser system. All three would sell the laser
also if they got a cut, or even if just the price was lower.
I could sell in quantities since I already have a market
for such things. Again,Maybe someday..........Rick

Rick Hedgecock
R&B Manufacturing

 

[gordon]

Now that is a very tough question to answer---one or two gauge wheels. I've got one on my blade and two on my rake. I guess each has it's advantages and disadvantages.

Single wheel on the blade is great for being able to backup close to a tree or post with the corner of the blade, can't do that with the rake. Dual wheel would be a steadier ride to get rid of any blade wobble. My blade has some wobble it's the nature of the beast. Thinking about it the single gauge wheel works just fine on the blade. I just run it alittle different than the rake. ---Did any of that make sense? I'll think about it some more.

I can say this a gauge wheel will spoil you very quickly. Just wish mine was hydraluic I've got to get off the tractor to adjust the ratchet on the gauge wheel.
Gordon

 

[MChalkley]

Gordon - I agree completely; once you have a gauge wheel on a blade or rake, you won't want to use them without one.

MarkC